EpicenterDesigns

Last night, along with the Caprice doors, they got ready for the filler. Pics soon.

Newer style Impala. Doing the deck, a sub box. some rear door pods. I think I have him talked into the front doors also and a rear deck. Your asking why the rears instead of the fronts first? I have no idea really. Anyways, so pics............

All this is basically ready for primer now. I need to get some pics. I am a slacker.

Then you were wiped out. The server crashed a couple nights ago and the last saved update was a couple weeks ago. So you will have to re-register. Sorry about that.

Also, if you have been inactive for the past 180 days (I think), you will be getting deleted. But emails were sent out about that. We would rather have 1000 active members than 4000 inactive members. I will see what is up with your account.

Go to the junkyard, or use ebay like I did for this example, and get an import style underdash emergency brake set-up. This one is from a Toyota truck. Just attach it under the dash, make the cables work and your set. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-PU-1...sspagenameZWD1V

I read it as they come Flat Black. I would give them a call and see if they have a gloss black option.

http://epicenterdesigns.com/photo-gallery/...ls.php?album=38

Material was stretched over the PVC. I rough the PVC up...ALOT.... and use CA to adhear the material to it. The CA doesn't release. Then go about your normal 'glassing.

Your driveshaft will need room to move up. Tranny tunnel will probally need to be raised.

So I filled all the holes and made frenched in gauge pods on the drivers side and the bezel. It is all ready for primer now. I need to get new updated pics......

Notice all the extra holes on the passenger side? His first plan was to do frenched in gauges but moved up to match the lines. Right after i cut all those holes, he decided to do dual needle gauges in the center bezel.

It didn't sit well with us as the passenger gauges sat lower than the 1 gauge on the driver side. (He picked the spots)...... so a new plan was devised and this is the new start.......

My buddy James has this litle truck......... Mid last year, I shaved his dash smooth and we added gauges to the passenger side. (best pics I can find)......

If you want air ride, and you want air ride done right, then do it BEFORE a system. You will need the room.

Well i found them. In am old Minitruckin mag circa 1985. They are KMC 640's. Old school.

I am pretty sure it is a KMC wheel. Maybe some of the "old school" guys will know. Or someone will have an old Minitruckin and they can look it up. Early to mid 90's I am sure.

NO NO NO...........PLEASE NO!!!! Just say no to AIM and all their many different names they hide behind.

The Maxim is like a Duramix 4040. 2 part urethane. I used FibreTech once and i was left unimpressed.

http://www.fiberglassforums.com/showthread.php?t=672

Your electrical system being able to supply the current has nothing to do with the amps ability to be wired at .5ohm. You have brougt that up several times. Your amp didn't die because it lacked current. It died cause it is a Crunch amp that was wired BELOW what it could do. You could get better power and performance if you bought a true rated amp, say a Sundown 1500, for close to what you paid for that paper weight and it will do .5ohm, (off warranty).

Crunch specs:: GP2500D 2500W 1-Channel D-Class Mono Amplifier 625W x 1-Ch @ 4-Ohms or 1250W x 1-Ch @ 2-Ohms or 2500W x 1-Ch @ 1-Ohm Dynamic Music Watts I think you might get 1800 w @ 1 ohm with those rating. Dynamic = Peak = w/Lightning strike. I think that you putting it in .5ohm, you heated it up faster than the Protect could save and it melted something internal. Could be wrong and it could fire right up.