Mad_Mike

The subs are 2000 RMS, and that amp does 4500 at 1 ohm.. So at .5 ohm it will probably do well over 6k if not more. Sundown only recommends it going down to 1 ohm.. I wouldn't risk that with a $2k amp. And I definitely wouldn't risk giving those subs 3k+ rms if they are only rated for 2k RMS. You should have got the dual 4 triple x's. If you can.. send them back and get the dual 4's!

I retract my previous statement.. I've actually put together a nice little system for around $350(my fav brand ;]). Deck: Any of Kenwood's decks that have sub level settings and filter settings(like high pass filter, low pass etc) I'd recommend one, but they are all nice decks if they have those settings and all cost around 100-150. Amp: KAC-8105D Mono block amp, 300w RMS @ 4 ohm and 500w RMS @ 2 ohms. 1000w peak. $99 on ebay. Subs: two 10" KFC-W2513PS 300w RMS, 1000w peak. 4 ohm single voice coil. $50 each on ebay. You can run 4 gauge wire with a 50 amp fuse, wire the subs parallel for 2 ohm impedance and get 500w/2 = 250 each sub which will be perfect. Run the subs in a single chamber ported box. I'd say that will be a nice sounding system for only $350.

I don't think you're going to get a quality system that will last with only $350.. I'd say save up a little because buying shit now is only throwing away money you could be saving for a better system that will last years.

My brother and I got into a little argument about Kenwood's quality. I have had about 3-4 decks from Kenwood, and 3-4 amps and sets of subs. Never had a problem with them. On the other hand, my brother has had a few decks and one amp from kenwood. He plays his music very distorted and his gains maxed out. So of course he's gunna have problems with kenwood. That argument has made me think, what do other people think of kenwood? So.. my questions to you are; have you ever owned kenwood items? Did you like them? Did you think they were quality items?

No. I wouldn't add more batteries until you... get a HO alt! All of these people saying do batts first are not really wrong, but that's not the way it should be done. An alternator is going to be cheaper than 5 batteries. Upgrading from a 105-130 alt to a 270 amp alt will eliminate the need for so many batteries so in the long run you will be SAVING MONEY. Also, cal's theory that adding more batts isn't going to help the 12.8v situation is wrong. It actually will, not for long.. but it will. The more batteries, the more available current. Which means voltage isn't going to get used up as fast. If you're just trying to "help it a little", and money is tight then go ahead and add a battery..

Lol. And Bump4Life: Amperage and current are the same thing. It sounds to me like you need to do your homework on how electricity works.

If you want to do it right, you need to upgrade your alternator. The alternator is what's actually feeding your system, the batteries simply buffer for it. And.. did you say you're running like a complete 250A on a stock 100A alt?? Wtf? If I were you, I'd save the money from loading your car with batteries and just upgrade to a 270 or 300A alternator, and then you'll be fine with probably one single battery(even the one under the hood!).

You'll have to do a little research yourself, but I'll try to give you the basics. You want to start out by finding out how many amperes your amps are gunna pull. The manufacturer will usually tell you what it uses at RMS, if they don't you can go by fuses. Add the fuses up and you get an idea of what it will pull. Once you get that number, you can put together a little shopping list for electrical. For six thousand watts you're probably going to be pulling around 350-400 amperes maybe even more. So you're definitely going to have to get a HO alternator or two. You want to find an alternator that will be able to supply both the amps and the car accessories without being taxed. If you can't get a dual alt setup or don't want to do a dual alt setup, which a six thousand watt system will probably require.. you can add a bunch of extra batteries to help that one HO alt. The extra batteries will give the amps what they need and at lower power times the alt will have a little time to recharge the batteries slowly. But if you are taxing the alt by enough, the batteries will only hold the system for a little bit.. and eventually you're going to run out of power. So the alternator setup is the heart of every system, the alternator is the only thing actually "making power" in the whole electrical system. You can add all the batteries you want, but without a big enough alternator you will never be able to play that system for long before the voltage drops and needs to recharge.

2.3 cu ft. is what MTX recommends. I don't know what you can fit in your trunk, but I did some calculations and came up with these box specs. Width: 22", height: 17", depth: 17". The port would be 2" x 15.5", and 26" long. The port would be tuned to 34 hz for the size of the box.

That's not nice. ^ How you install LED's will vary from where you get them, but generally there will be positives and negatives.. Just wire them up to a switch or tap into the runners so they are on when the runners are on.

Check all of your wiring, and do you have a volt meter? Monitor it if so, when this happens. If the alt is only putting out 14v even when this happens then you can rule out the alt as the problem

Shiz, ebay yo.

Not sure if they do.. I doubt it though, hook em up and see if they hold voltage.

Is that your connector? It looks like the connector is not capable of carrying the current like you said.. That may be his problem if it's the same.

A test light will do yes, you just need to know if the blower motor is getting the power. So test as close to the motor as you can.

Locate your blower motor, and if you have a voltmeter, test for voltage at it. If you're getting voltage, the fan is probably done for and you need another. If you need help locating the blower motor for your car, I can check my chilton pro account and help you out.

You can ground to any solid bolt on the engine, just make sure it's a good tight clean connection.

Like everyone said, do the big three first. I'm not really sure if you will get by with adding a battery only, you're probably going to need a HO alternator. Those amps together will probably need like 250 or so amps, so get you a nice ho alt and one or two reserve batteries to help it out. That may break budget, but seems to be the only way here for your setep. EDIT: Yes, red and black zero gauge is the same wire just different color. If you get a HO alt yes you will need to fuse the big three from battery to alt within 12 inches of the battery. Fusing that wire is mainly to protect against potential short to grounds in the length of the wire from battery to alt, it could light your shit on fire. If you are just doing the big 3 on your stock alt, you can use the stock fuse that should be near the battery. Just run from alt to stock fuse, and from fuse to batt. Voltmeters are very simple, you can wire them in parallel to the battery, + to red wire and - to black wire. You can tap into any source that is coming from the battery, but I would recommend running a dedicated wire with a 30A fuse for the voltmeter for the most accurate reading. Batteries can last for up to ten years, it just depends on how much abuse they have seen. I know a guy that has had the same battery in his truck for more than 10 years, and it still holds 12.2v after sitting for hours. If the battery can hold a load and stay above 10.5v then it is good .

actually you are wrong bro.....your ALTERNATOR(s) are there to supply the system and everything in the car while it is running. The batteries are only there for when you have more system then you have alternator and drop below its maximum charging ability during heavy use. That or if you are playing the system with the car OFF (like at the beach or something like that.) basically while the car is running, the alternator should be doing ALL the work. That being said, if I were to run 2k rms which would pull like what.. 200 give or take amps? If I had a 270xp alt, that would be plenty to run everything with a single batt yeah? You seem to be forgetting just like everyone else seems to that the car has to be powered b4 the system or anything else. How so? I've taken that into account here. 70 amps will be free for the car itself, if the amplifier will take up to 200..

actually you are wrong bro.....your ALTERNATOR(s) are there to supply the system and everything in the car while it is running. The batteries are only there for when you have more system then you have alternator and drop below its maximum charging ability during heavy use. That or if you are playing the system with the car OFF (like at the beach or something like that.) basically while the car is running, the alternator should be doing ALL the work. That being said, if I were to run 2k rms which would pull like what.. 200 give or take amps? If I had a 270xp alt, that would be plenty to run everything with a single batt yeah?

Ok I get it now, more reserve for the amp(s) if they need it. I'm pretty sure it's the alt that runs the car skateboard6, and the bat is just there for reserve if demand goes over the alt's capability..

I'm planning on getting a couple sundown SA-12's and maybe their 3500 amp, though it is quite pricey.. so i may get another I don't know yet. Sundown recommends that you put an upgraded batt under the hood and one in the back. I've also seen all the high power systems with lots of batteries in the back.. My question is: Why do you need to add more batteries if you have a HO alt capable of supplying all your amp and car accessories? (I posted almost the same question in the electrical equipment section but it seems there's not that much help there.)

That 3500 amp makes me wonder now.. I have a newbie question. Because that is a mono amp, those subs must be wired together on that right? Does wiring subs together double power handling? Example: 2 sundowns wired parallel for 1 ohm = 2000 RMS handling capability? or is it still 1000?