KickerAudio21

haha, yeah after going from a 12 to a 15, i'll never go back unless space or looks is an issue... So i'll go with one 18" What kinda of box ideas do you guys have??? Seeing as how my 15" L7 was ALMOST as loud as i would ever want, I don't think it is necessary to go ported with the 18.... (i will make an spl box for comps though).... I think it should get pretty loud sealed, and that way i can really take advantage of the lower frequncies. I will be using 3/4" mdf, double baffle, and a light coat of resin on the insides, and maybe some thick ccord soaked in resign like groundpouder for bracing, or maybe steel bracing. But what size... and WHY won't anyone buy my fricken setup right now!!!??? $550 for new condition L7 15", hifonics 1206d, custom crx style box (the ports alone cost $60)..... shit, i work at best buy and someone is lucky as hell to walk out with our shittiest system for under $600

I'm currently running a 15" 2006 style L7 in 5.5 cubes, ported. Its tuned really low with percision ports so guarenteed it's the best SQ you've heard out of an L7 ported... I'm powering it with a bxi1206d. (so a lil over 1000 clean rms). And i'm running it in a blazer with about 2 layers of dynamat everywhere, and more on headliner. It hits just under 143, peaking at 37hz or so (on termlab). SOO.... i've had this system for almost a year and even though it sounds orgasmic, i need to switch things up and try something new becasue I love building audio systems and i can never keep one for more than 6 months usually without getting bored. I WILL be going with fi, because fi fucking pwns. I really wanted a pair of 15's sealed, because i think it would be a very unique sound in a dynamatted car and it would look more symetrical than one sub (personal opinion), but i can't afford to power 2000 watts or buy 2 BL's or anything. I think i'm set on getting one fi Q. They seem to be the best fi sub for sealed boxes (if i decide to do sealed). And their Xmax is 27mm, compared to all the other subs which is 21mm.... this means it will really rail out the sub 40hz notes i think. I CAN'T decide on getting one 15" or one 18". I know 18" technically should not have lesser sound quality than a 15, but then again why aren't more ppl getting them? Another question I had is how much of an upgrade in SPL and or SQ will I get if i went with a fully loaded fi Q 18" compared to my kicker. (if i used same amp, i will prolly upgrade a bit if i get the Q). Say i sealed the Q, would it not be as loud as my L7 is now ported.??? Sorry this is so long and i appreciate any advise, i have no experience wtih fi and I know all you guys do.

I have a hard time understanding why larger subs sound "sloppy". I have never exerienced this. If a sub is moving at 35 cycles persecond, it is moving in and out 35 times a second, regardless of wheather it is a 8" sub or a 22" sub....

They sound absolutly amazing... I've heard a lot of comp sets with harsh highs and stuff, but these blend perfectly!! I have exteremely bad alternator whine for some reason though, and i'm having a tough time fixing it - but I'll get it eventually

haha, i dripped solder!!! it came right off

forgot to take pics of them in the doors.... Well, they turned out pretty good, there are some minor flaws, but when you're working on the tailgate of a truck and have limited tools, supplies, and money it is tuff. The main goal of the project was to have great sound and that was a complete success. The only problem is that there is terrible alternator whine!!!!!! So that'll take me a few takes to work out!

By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 OOOPPPPSSSS!!!!! By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21 By kickeraudio21

Here are some pics of stuff I got done today... Keep in mind I am a poor college student and can't afford a jasper jig, air compressed tools or other fancy tools that would make this easier/cleaner I saw different styles of door pods online, and I decided to just cut out part of the door and hope for the best, instead of glassing onto the existing door. Now tomorrow i'll put on a layer or 2 of fiberglass mat and then throw on the vinyl, and mount them up!!!

there is, it's called an oscilliscope... (spelling?)

new hifonics amps!!??? wtf, where do i buy those???

after seeing a loaded BTL 18 at a comp yesterday.... I wanna try fi also, noone has them in MN, so it'd be origional

I have a kicker L7 15" and bxi1206d for sale with a custom box I am selling becasue I can't keep a system for more than a few months becuase of some disease I have where I alwasy need to be building new systems for my car. The amazing thing about this system is that it is the best sounding system i've ever heard. It is tuned to 33hz and peaks out at about 38hz at 142.1 dB's on the TL (which is an impressive for such a low hz). It plays the lows extremely well and sounds very very musical on all kinds of music. The aero ports have something to do with why it sounds so good. I'm asking $800 for local pickup... if shipped i'm asking $900 plus shipping just because I want to move it fast and locally if possible. All the equpiment is a few months old, and being a MECP installer, trust me when I say I have treated this system very well, and never have smelt the VC's burn, this amp is a perfect match for the box. I have many more pics of the box build and stuff if interested, teh box is 5.5 cubes. price is negotiable. This could be shipped somehow, but local pickup is best. I live just east of minneapolis/st. paul, MN

and some of you will probably try and say "just go ported, it can still sound as good as sealed" , but I want sealed becasue it fits my design I have in mind better. It's going in a blazer

I have been competing a lot and tried all kinds of ported boxes and I have come to love 15's. After hearing my buddy's jeep with 2 sealed dayton titanic 15's, I want to try something new and go with a dual 15" sealed setup.... I just love the sound of a lot of power going to sealed 15's in a car that is heavily dynamatted. My budget is $100-225 on each subwoofer.... And I don't want to go over 1800 watts on the amplifier (running zero gauge, stock alt, yellowtop, don't want to upgrade further) The amp will most likely be a hifonics 1206d,1606d,or 2006d (because I like them, so don't try to argue with that) SO PLEASE HELP ME DECIDE ON SOME SUBS!!! my first choice would be some comp-vx, because they sound awsome and they are sexy, but That would be just too much power, i'd need about 2200 watts My first choices: - kicker comp-vr 15" - fi SSD 15" - memphis M3 15" - mtx 7500 15" - RE SR 15" SO HELP ME OUT AND GIVE ME SOME IDEAS.... I wanna be hitting 144's or something sealed, so I guess you could say I want a SQ and SPL and that also means I want to give the subs a good 20% more power then they are rated, casue sleaed subs like lots of power. Feel free to PM me too

yup, smell is the best way when you are ported. Once the subs start getting a dirty signal ( when a sine wave starts to becoming rough at the amplitude) the VC's will burn a little or you will smell it. With my new L7 I broke it in for a few weeks, then I started pushing the sub to find it's limits. If you have wattage that is near the rated RMS of the sub, as long as you can play a song for about a minute at a certain volume and not smell anything, it is a pretty good indication that you are not damaging it. If you smell ANYthing from the sub then you know you have the gains, volume or w/e too high. This is the method I use to find my subs' limit. It is usually ok to intentionally make the subs smell to find their limits. If you have a good quality woofer it won't damage it if it smells for a few seconds, it's just the glue burning on the voice coils, but it is bad if you do it for more than a few seconds.

HOLY FAWK, did you guys see the insane hair trick that guy pulled!!!???? i saw like 4 strands of hair move a full inch!!!! damn!!!

here it is.... I read the manual and it says that you can use one of the supplied metal things to cut circles i think.... hopefully It'll work fine without a plunger, i can't imagine any situation where i'd need one.

you probably accidentally had it on the amperage setting, which shorted out the multimeter and that's why it's acting funny.

They replaced the PA fubar with the insignia sub which is almost identical. PA makes the sub and they put the best buy brand insignia on it. It is selling for $100 new and $45 or so employee price. I'm not a fan of PA subs, but this new insignia sub actually sounds better than any of the other subs in the best buy boom room setup, i was extremely impressed, and it sounded better than the almost identical PA version that they just quit selling.

so throw a toggle on it

yup... I know that some ford taurus vehicles that have digital temp controls (the are called ford sho's or something) don't have a kit out. Or if there is a kit I havn't found it yet. If you really like that car, i'm sure there is a version without digital temp controls

I hear ya, I guess i'll invest in it. Also, my router does not have a plunger - so would I jsut drill a hole and start the bit there???

for $50 i'd rather use my jigsaw for circles.... (at least until I get my financial situation stabalized) but thx for link But the roudned edge one is called a roundover bit??? and there are differnet sizes, i noticed at sears there was a 1/2" version and a 1/4" version, which would work well for rounding 3/4" MDF boxes?

So today I picked up a Craftsman router - it was pretty nice 110 amp, marked down to $70 from $100 or so.... I want to be able to do two things: - round corners on my boxes - cut circles for subwoofers SOOO what bits or accesories do I need and where is the cheapest place to get them!!??? (sears wants $40 for rounding bits), so i wanna try and get cheaper if i can, i'm poor and how do routers cut circles?? do i need to make a router table? or is there an atachment? the router didn't come with anything except a little metal bar thingy.

My transmission just went out on my blazer and I'm forced to sell my system. IT all is only a few months old and I guarentee it to hit 145's and up with the right electrical system and car. It's amazing how loud and how good the SQ is. ONLY BAD THING IS IT IS ONLY FOR LOCAL PICKUP AND I LIVE IN MN. FOR SALE: - Kicker L7 15" (almost new, dual 2 ohm, 2006 model) - Hifonics bxi1206d amplifier (almost new, 1200x1 watts RMS - Custom CRX style ported box (tuned to 33hz, very very nice, with aero ports) Asking $800 or $1000 installed (would include new 0ga. wire kit) Please help me sell this, my blazer got totalled and I need this money so I can get a vehicle Here's a video of the first day I had it, it wasn't even broken in much, now it's so loud it is hard to breath on some jeezy tracks, and the Sound Quality is AMAZING. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2...exing&hl=en If you are interested, contact me [email protected] or 651-303-9709 , ask for adam If you think the price is a little high, that is because you've never heard it.... it will blow your mind how good it sounds, and I promise you that an $800 system from best buy would consist of maybe 2 shitty RF p1 subs and a pioneer 760 watt amp. This system will blow away anything they sell at local stores