KickerAudio21

hey, don't hate on best buy Best buy is probably the best possible place for a new installer to work at. They provide a great place to get expereince tearing apart almost every kind of car and they have THE best tech support line there is. The 8 guys who are on the tech line are mostly master installers, and they help write the MECP tests. I understand most installers at best buy don't know kicker, or any other kind of sub brands. That is because most of them don't even like car audio, and that is why i quit and moved on to a custom shop, but it's still a great place for a newb. besides, most custom shops don't hire ppl unless they have a year or so of experience in another shop.

I used to order from them and had no problems at all.... but i've been hearing bad stuff recently online so i stopped... ALSO WATCH OUT FOR ikesound.com, they are a good site, but they don't tell when inventory is out either,and they are all jewish (no offense) so they take off a week or 2 around christmas so items are automatically delayed from that!!!!! THE CLEAR SOLUTION IS TO ORDER FROM WOOFERSETC.COM they are awsome!!!!!

crown vics have major cancellation issues and air transfer issues..... If you want a big box i would highly highly recommend making a port go through the rear deck aimed off the rear glass and seal off the trunk - i think you will be happiest this way.

that's a beautiful box, Don't get mad if i steal you idea for an extended cab pickup sometime. what amp ya got on it and how much are those sub, whats their specs?

type R's look really cool. Especially the magnet. That and their price is about the only thing they got going for them

you're never supposed to wire them out of phase...... reversing the polarity on inverted subs compared to polarity of normal subs will keep them in phase. Wiring them out of phase means the sine waves oppose each other causing cancellation.

sound deadening kicks ass!!! I love cranking my system in a parking lot and ppl will walk by and not even notice, but when i open a door ppl think the world is coming to an end because of the bass. Cause it will keep almost all the sound inside your car if you do it right

i would reccomend dynamat extreme.... You can get a bulk pack for $130 or so on ebay stores. I'm not sure how it compares to fatmat, but i can tell you that 3-4 layers on the roof of my blazer does absolute wonders!!!! Maybe you could get by using less with dynamat extreme - it is one of the best sound deadeners out there for sure

omg... everyone on my floor plays that game all day long!!!! I don't have attention span for flash games i stick to counter-strike

I'm pretty sure everyone who has facebook should join my kickass group "Livin Loud" If you can't find it search for car audio under group search if you don't have facebook, then get it

Ok.... Bass box pro 6 is tricky, I still haven't figured it out. Download WinISD beta, that is basically the same program as bass box pro but without any of the confusing stuff. When it comes to dynamat (fatmat, w/e) You'd be suprised how much is actually in the box when you open it up. The goal of dynamatting is to make the tinny metal of your car more like armor. With a pair of P1's, two layers on your headliner and trunk lid will do the trick. 50sq. ft is enough. 50 sq. feet should actually get your doors, headliner, and your trunk lid. If you plan on upgrading subs later on, or you just wanna do a really good job, get the 100 and do like 3 layers everywhere, that will sound amazing. After you design your box in winisd, it will give you the outer dimensions of you box. (click on the units to change them to ft!!!) and using some basic math or common sense you can figure out the cuts. I would not rely on other people to get you cut lists if you plan on building boxes in the future, it's good to know how to do it.

you got some skillz making videos

ummm.... i wouldn't buy it. I've personally owned 5 different type-r's and I also worked at best buy for a year and i've never seen a type r with tan on it.... Idk what the deal is, maybe it's even a rip off sub, but i'd buy it somewhere else where it looks right.

is that particle board???/ doesn't look like mdf

L7 15's are $230 shipped. Idk if they are as good as fi, but they are cheaper. You have to get them on ebay stores for that price though. Type-r's suck btw

kicker pwns RF any day of the week

PR's kick ass, how does it sound?

alpineguy, most your questions can be answered by looking at the pics or reading what i wrote. If you wanna power your type-r's cheap buy the hifonics 1606d from www.woofersetc.com for $270 or so. That will give them 1400 watts adn they will sound amazing, but make sure you or someone who knows what they are doing sets the gains. Whatever you do, don't give your type rs less than 600 clean watts each or they won't sound their best

I can't speak for everyone, but I know this applies to me and some other people here....... When we get our new subs that we've been saving for in a while, we take about 10 pics of us opening the box for the first time. I just got my L7 15" and i took one of the brown shipping box, the kicker box, the sub in the plastic still and the sub out of the plastic.... haha, i have no life.

i've already said this twice, but the SQ is the best i've heard in any vehicle ever. The only vehicle i've heard with comparable sq is a pair of dayton titanic 15"s sealed with 1200 watts, but i think mine tops that. i found those voltage meters at a local custom shop, try online, they are stinger brand - groundpounder just bought some for his cavalier? build, ask him

idk, it all happened on the old heatsink sliver design which had no fuses on them. But it's possible that it could have been user error (me) like wiring to wrong ohm, but i've a very very knowledable installer so i doubt i would make such a mistake. my 701s blew 3 times in one year, i kept sending it in to get rebuilt.... once it took me subs with it, just fried my mtx 8000's

i had a power hx2 once.... never got around to hookin it up before i sold it.... I'm a fan of the older hx series... i've seen them consistently hit good numbers. I'll never use an RF amp as long as i live though, i've had 2 amps fry on me in my life and they were both RF.... and i've used about 50 diff. amps in my days.

What's in it? 1206d (which suprisingly pushes it pretty fricken well it's only at 1/3 gain on video, still breaking in) big 3, zero ga. , yellow top my electrical system is fine, except i need a h/o alt, so that would fix that voltage drop issue. When i'm driving at 2000-3000 rmp, it stays at 14.7 and never drops lower than 14, which isn't bad one thing that I did that makes this sound so nice i think is the fact that i eliminated the speaker wire terminal and used really good quality 12 ga. straight to sub

video

please note that I have 4+ layers of dynamat extreme on the roof and on the doors and tailgate, so there won't be much flexing and i forgot my phone on the roof after i took the video and drove off.... luckily it was still on the roof half a mile later when i remembered!!!!!!