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Showing results for tags 'box'.
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I am about to build this box in 2 hours with a friend, so any quick input would be nice, I did a lot of calculation, tried to keep port bends as low as possible, only 1 bend, port area I think is good, especially since im putting these 2 subs on 2.5x power daily, a kicker zx2500.1 for 2 Sundown SA-12's Let me know if you would change anything quick, from what I can see its setup well, but when you been working on something for the last 6 hours you sometimes miss stuff in torres calc it wasn't calculating the port area correctly, so I found the box internal volume after all displacements and then acted like the port was external to the box, winISD and torres gave me the same tuning when calculating it that way, I am going for 34hz with 3.22 cubes inside, I would have went bigger with the box but with the extra power I need a bit smaller airspace for sub control, I measured the Port Length right down the middle which is what your supposed to do I believe Just let me know if I messed up on anything, even if you look at it quick, at least say yea or no or something, THANKS A BUNCH GUYS!!!
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I would like someone to design a box for a zvx 15 that is ported at @32hz and is 3 ft^3, the cut out is 13.9, sub woofer displacement is 0.17 ft^3 , and the mounting depth is 9.3. It will be a trunk box so port back sub back and would like it to be double baffled, willing to pay for a good design thanks!!!! Will be running an aq2200 in a 1995 toyota avalon xl 30x18x17
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Whats up everyone, i'm new here and I'm really getting into car audio. Right now I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado that I threw 2 shallow P3 12's in. I really want something louder. I'm not quite ready to do a blow through, so I want my first build to be 4 Sundown SA-8's underneath the rear seat, facing the front. I want two 4" ports, one on each side. I'm extremely new to box building, but I learn very fast. I have a few questions, and I would also really appreciate some pointers & tips. Question #1: Since I want 4 subs with a port on each side of the box, am I going to need to put a center divider in the center of the box, so that I create two chambers, each with two subs and a 4" port? Question #2: The SA-8's recommended box volume is .5-.75 cu. ft. so should I simply take .5 and times it by four, giving me a 2 cu. ft. box volume for the 4 subs? That's all the questions I can think of...for now. Any tips or other help is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks, Mike
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i have 2 sundown sa12s in a L-ported box that i made and its tuned to 29hz and about 4.4cubes before sub displacement. it has 45 in all corners. It moves a decent amount of air.. but i think it could move alot more. ive seen people with trunk cars move more air with the same subs. im looking for ideas on a new box, even though i just build this one i still want a better one, and im thinking of using an aero port(s) instead of an L-port design since ive been researching some and that seems to be the way to go. My current setup is Subs up port up but i was thinking of doing Subs up port(s) forward and im also looking to keep the same tuning of 29 hz seeing as it seems to do good in my truck. btw i have an extended cab truck. Would that be the best setup for moving air? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. haha
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Ok so I have now got a design for 2 DD 9518's. I have people telling me the woofers will have a hard time being that they will kind of choked would you say? Well anyway the design is for daily and SPL. It is tuned to 37hz, has 12.5 cubes and 205 square inches of port area. This will go in a 1998 corolla. How do you think this design would be for them? ***Below is the design.
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Hey there I'm decently new to the box building part of car audio and I needed some help building a ported box for my 2 kicker s10l5's, The max dimensions I can use are 24'' for the height, 40'' for the width, and 18 for the depth. Also is there an easy way to tune the box? I was looking for around 35 Hz
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Anyone know if this type of port division would cause any issues? 3 inches wide, 26 inches long total. 2 12" DC LVL 4's SUBS FACING UP!
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I just built a box for 4 12's but after doing so i started thinking about how to make it much louder, i want a lot of spl, my cars resonant frequency is 49htz would it be louder at like 34htz or if i made a box tuned at around 40htz?
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I was wanting some opinions on whether I should port this box or not. It's right at 3^ft after sub and brace displacement. There will be 4 skar vvx 10s in it running off a crescendo bc2000d. That is an amp rack on top in case anyone doesn't know. Thanks for your time.
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i have a box made for my full size blazer with 4 pa mojo 15s 38wx32dx20h and i want to tune it to 35hz. can someone please help me figure out what size my port should be?
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hello everyone!! Looking to build a box in my trunk . walled off . I don't have the tools or a shop. So my question for everyone one out there is: Does anyone know of a GOOD shop in the Columbus ,Ohio area. perferable with experience of walling a trunk. I have to get the pressure off my trunk lid. It is ripping at the hinge mounts. my car hates me...lol
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Hey guys I didn't now whether t post this here or in the enclosures section but here we go. I would like to build a custom ported subwoofer box for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. I have 36 inches wide to work with and 31 tall. Any help would be much appreciated. Oh and this is for 2 DC level 3s 15".
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Ive been looking but havent seen anyone really do (3) v3 z18 subs. i just got 3 of them and have 3 hifonics brutus 2100d and am curious has anyone had experience with these subwoofers? Sundown says 4 ft^3 and that sounds too small. Also, this is my first real system, gathering everything i think i need. Input appreciated.
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the box has 22.86 cubes and 220 inches of port tuned to 35 hz. it will be in a 92 full size blazer subs up port up. port will be by back window. never built a spl box and need all input i can get.
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i have 4 mofo 15s, i would like to pull some decent numbers and keep it an every day driver. the box will be 22.86 cubic ft, 220 in. port area, tuned to 35 hz. all will be double thick 3/4 in mdf, with bolt bracing. subs and port up port. port by back window or up front? will it work correctly with the subs i have? love to hear your input. new to this big of a set up.
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Hello everyone, I am planning on building my own single 12 SEALED box for my sub. The sub recommendations for the box volume is 1.37 cubic feet. I'm new to this stuff so can anyone just give me measurements of wood i need so i can go cut it and put it together? I'm going to use 3/4 MDF wood. Just give me the height X width of each side i need. please and thank you very much.
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alright i have 2 options for what i can do with the box, 1. 3.94 cubic feet @ 32 hz with 3 4" wide areo ports= about 37 inches of port area 2. 3.54 cubit feet @ 34 hz with 4 4" wide aero ports = about 50 inches of port area Can anyone explain pros and cons of either, weaknesses and strengths. SPL or for trying hairtricks? and i can tune the amps subsonic frequency 7 below the box tuning or is it 3?
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I basically just want to know if this design will work for my sub, my only concern is the port area, i know 14in of port per cube foot is ok, but it only has 8.5 in of port area, so comment if its good, or bad. Thanks. Sundown SA-8 D4 v.1 Wired at 2 ohms getting about 550 rms 10x23x12 box dimentions 8.5x1x30 port dimentions 34.29 Hz .64 cubes after sub and port displacement 8.50 inch port area 13.28 inches of port area per foot
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Looking at putting 2 15" Rockford p3's in my car, my trunk space is limited, I'm thinking about going with this simple design with some cheap pvc ports to the side, it should sound fine I would think since the trunk is a pretty sealed enclosure itself, but I was thinking of having the subs facing upward w/ ports facing the rear, any input would be helpful, any ideas? Thanks My trunk space: H-17", W-37", D~40" [or] H-14", W-46", D~40" (lower height would squeeze under the trunk levers or w/e they are called...) Here's a possible design: Box: H-17", W-36", D-22" (tuned @ 28hz w/ port length of 4"x14")
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How much of a difference would it be tuning a box to 27hz rather than 34hz for 2 kenwood subs rated to 34hz?
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I picked up an AQ HDC3 15" dual 2 (copper coil) and need to build an enclosure. The tricky part is getting it between the bucket seats in my 1994 regular cab chevy pickup truck. I plan to do a slot port enclosure, but have no idea what frequency I should tune to or how many cubes I should shoot for. I couldn't find the info on audioque's website. I planned to mount the sub facing the dash with the port on the floor and also facing the dash as I had some success with a similar box setup. Variation suggestions in this are also very welcome. If I am leaving anything out please let me know. Thank you in advance for any suggestions. And sorry if I'm posting incorrectly..noob here.
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Hi, I recently purchased and installed my first sub system: Kenwood 9105D Mono-Amp @ 1800w max / 900 rms(2ohm) Dual Kenwood 12" w3013ps subs (bridged @ 2 ohms, 450rms per sub(400rms-1200w peak)) w/ 34-300 freq. response, recommended ported enclosure @ 2 cft tuned to 34hz 4 Gage power wires, 12 gage speaker wire, gold plated terminals etc Got most of it on sale, cost about $350 for everything from sonic electronix and crutchfield. The subs are in a Sound Ordnance dual 12 inch ported enclosure @ 1.63 cft per chamber, tuned at 33hz The subs sound too high pitched of bass, it's LOUD and shakes most of the car, it just doesn't sound quite right, I believe it has to do with the enclosure size and bad box tuning but I wanted to make sure, that's why I'm asking here. So my question is this, is the bass problem the size of the box, the tuning, or the high freq. response of the subs? or a mix of some of these. Right now the subs don't play below 40hz very well which I'm sure is because of the tuning and size of the box. I'm more than willing to build a box for these but I'm not sure if it's worth it if the subs still wont touch anything below 34hz, I see a lot of people here with boxes tuned to 30hz or less and I'm wondering if I should tune that low even though my response is only 34hz. Should I just buy new subs? Most of my music doesn't hit lower than 34hz but still, I want some ground pouding bass every once in a while, can't really afford anything much bigger right now with my financial situation. Any info would be helpful I'm just looking to soak up some data since I'm a beginner, a lot of the topics here are very helpful. Thanks!