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I need help designing a box for a friend. The whole porting thing kinda confuses me. We're running 4 Sundown Audio e-12s off a Hifonics Elite BRE2500.1 Its going in his Ford Explorer SUV and he wants to do subs up, port up, if at all possible. I got measurements today and his max dimensions are 41" wide by 18.5" tall and max 33" deep. We want to definatly make it 41" wide and 18.5" tall so it fills up the back from wheel well to opposite wheel well, and we want it 18.5" tall so it sits flush to the height of the back seats. The 33" deep is just a maximum, it will probly need to be less than the full 33" cuz with that dimension it would probly have too much volume for the subs. Sundown recommended specs are 2ft^3 per subs @ 35 hz, but we both really love the lows and are thinking of doing something along the lines of 32hz. I run 3 SA8 V2s on 2400RMS @ 32 hz and 1.8 ft^3 and the 32 hz definatly sounds great so I'm not all that worried about tuning to 32hz instead of 35hz... So anyway I'm not a total noob at car audio, I just don't know all that much about designing boxes. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I'd gladly send some money via paypal if your willing to help me out on a good design. Thanks

I'm getting rid of my SPL setup I have currently ( one 12" DC lvl4 sub, ported box)and I'm throwing in a "behind the seat box" sealed enclosure... But here's my question as to what would sound better?? Either two 10" skar VD-10's or three? The box will be made the same dimensions for each set up so having two 10's I'm closer to what the subs call for in a sealed enclosure. Total inside box volume will be 1.5cubes the vd-10's call for .65 cubes per sub totaling 1.3cubes if I do two and the enclosure would technically be two small for 3 sealed vd-10's but they would fit. I can power both set ups efficiently just curious as to what would sound better, either 3 subs requiring 1500rms in a sealed box that's too small or two tens in a correct sized enclosure requiring 1000rms?

I've seen quite a few write-ups on 4th order ratios and what not, but am struggling to find anything on 6th orders. what would a 1:1 compared to a 2:1, 3:1, etc. ratio 6th order sound like? Thanks!

I currently have a box in my car holding my 2 NVXvcw154's and running a Skar audio 2000watt amp, but... the Problem I'm having is the box I'm using is tuned high (i think, its been years since i made it) the new subs i put in will bottom out when i turn them up to a nice volume. I've remedied this by turning my subsonic filter up but its pretty high up there, more than 75% to max. I was wondering if i've designed this new box correctly. I've added a link to the subbox.pro designer and plugged in all the parameters of my subwoofers and the limits of my trunk. I don't know if my port area is too big or too small for the speaker size and box volume. I realize that the box length has a bit of an issue with the length being longer than the box. I plan on angling it to make an L port to fit it in the box. If you have any knowledge of box building and you see any problems with this build please let me know! I want these subwoofers to perform to the best of their abilities and that means I need to get this box built correctly. I appreciate any help, This is The new box This is the page with my Subwoofer Specs.

I was wondering if there was anyone located in the GTA in Ontario who would be willing to help design and build a box for me? I have no access to power tools and even if I did, I would have no idea how to use them. As of right now I have a single Sundown Sa-12 in a crappy prefab box and it makes me sad... I could get the trunk dimensions tomorrow for whoever, if anyone, would be willing to help out a highschool student just getting into car audio. Thanks a lot

I am very new to most things car audio, and being new I am not really looking to build a box to the exact specifications of my subwoofers manual. I would like to find something as close as I can get however. and I'm looking for suggestions. The sub is wired to 2 ohms My setup is Subwoofer: http://alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d4 Amp: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601 Box: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12-single-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-charcoal/6504011.p?id=1218747923938&skuId=6504011 I am completely oblivious to whether my current box is even close to what my sub should have. It was just what was available and cheap with my discount. I'm looking for something close to the manufacturer's recommended specs (if they are whats best). The specifications can be found on the right side of page three of the manual in this link. I'm looking for the Vented box. https://www.manualowl.com/m/Alpine/SWS-12D4/Manual/276124 Thanks in advance for any help guys its very much appreciated!

Hey guys im doing my first build 3 skar evl 15s dvc 2ohm on a ts 3.5 I was gonna do a flat wall but everyone I know personally who does comps says if this is for me anf not for comps I need to do a fourth order cause it's more musical and has more bandwidth i wanna do demos but really i just love bass I've tried bass box 6 and win isd and on regular ported walls it wasnt a problem to get good response on the graph but when I try it with the 4th order calc no matter what i do I cant get the tuning right i want it tuned where its peaking between 32 and 55 Hz tops I don't know a bunch about it all i know is i love bass and I am a noob to all competitors I've read over an hour a day for 9 months and finally got the basics but still know nothing theres so much to learn but im dedicated i got everything for it ho alt batts subs amp and all power cable ran but cant build the box correctly cause i cant do the specs and don't wanna mess up the subs from doing it wrong I know it's time consuming and has no benefit to you but if someone could please help id be eternally grateful the box max external specs are 42d 36h 40w so it leaves plenty of room for the 2:1. And the subs rec enclosure are 3.5-3.75 sealed 3.5-4.0. Ported thanks so much for even reading this ridiculously long post if someone would help I will build and show results so they can know there time wasnt wasted -hooplah-

Hey there, I have two 15" Earthquake DBXI subwoofers that are currently in a sealed enclosure and I'm looking to go ported. My car is a 2003 Monte carlo - My amp is an Alpine 1k - The trunk space available is 36" wide - 31" Deep - 16" Tall The subwoofers are 6 3/8" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to the bottom of the magnet if that helps I listen to a lot of rap (Gucci Mane, Future, etc) and I'm a huge fan of low bass (Decaf <3) but I'd still like to be able to handle mid range bass also Im not opposed to any style of box I Just want it to sound better Please let me know if you need any more info! Will appreciate any help someone can give!

So i need some advice on deciding a new setup for my 2010 gmc sierra crew cab. As of now, i have a bad setup with 2 rf p1 12's under the backseat sealed. I wanted to do a ported box like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMqdmKnwjL0 however, i talked to a local audio store owner and he said i could never get a good sounding ported box under my seats, any thoughts? He said i should just do 2 JL 10 inch w1's sealed because thats the best setup he's heard in a truck like mine.

Hi guy's , just bought a Brand new JVC DRVN 12inch (Black cone) , going to run at 4ohm as is a single voice coil , off a 250 rms jvc amp . Please help me design a box !!! Medium size , Good for music but also hitting low for some shake (Y) maybe 34hz or 36 what you reckon ?? Want a basic rectangular port Please can someone advise me on box dimensions . Either inches or mm for each piece , send me a link to a good box , and help me figure a good HZ tune . Thanks guys Ollie(16) from New Zealand Subwoofer - http://www.jvc.co.nz/CS-G1200.html Subwoofer spec's - http://www.jvc.co.nz/assets/pdf-manual/CS-GD1200.pdf

Hey guys, Just started using the SMD forum so sorry if Im not in the right area or something. Im trying to design and build a box for 2, 12in XX Re Audio subs. I currently have a single xx in a 2.25cu ft box tuned to 30hz and it slams. I want to double up the sub though for some more bass. \m/ If anyone can help me design a box Id be really thankful! I dont have any software and looking for someone to just help out I want to do somewhere around 5-6 cu ft tuned anywhere from 30-34hz. Here are some parameters. Re-1.0645 ohm Fs-32.2101hz zmax-12.6341ohm Qes-0.5635 Qms-6.1248 Qts-0.5161 Le-0.9059mH Diam-254mm Sd-50670.7504 mm^2 Vas-29.6566L BL-10.7141 Mms-300.2708g Efficiency- 0.1652% Sensitivity- 84.1993 dB Xmax-54mm Really any help would be great guys. Thanks-Andy.

Hello Everyone, I've been watching Steve for awhile now. I love his car builds, especially the Lexus, but I'm really interested in his shop towers. I'd like to modify this idea and create a kitchen island that can house 4 subwoofers and use passive radiators. The other interesting aspect I'd like to throw into this is that I'm looking to make the box an octagon. Here are the details I'm working with; I was originally going to do a rectangle island with 4 SMD 18" AA subs, but seeing as those are discontinued and AA hasn't mentioned anything about a new line, I'm currently looking into using 4 DC Audio Level 6 m3 18" subs instead. These subs are supposed to have 6 cubic feet per sub of air space. I know there should technically be 8 passive radiators at 18", but im curious if I could get away with 4. The amps I would be using would mimic Steve's choices: those being a Crown XTI 4000 powering each sub. The length of the sides of octagon are looking to be 24". If you were to look at an octagon, the plan would be to place the passive radiators on the flat sides, as if the octagon was a square, and the subwoofers on the angled sides. So if you were to connect the passive radiators with lines, they would make a "+" sign and the subwoofers would make a "x". Spec List: -(4) DC Audio Level 6 m3 18" subwoofers -(4) Crown XTI 4000 ampllifiers -(4- 18" passive radiators -24" sides - Octagonal box So my question is, can someone help me narrow down exactly how long each side of the octagon should be, how tall it should be, and how many passive radiators I should use to achieve a box that is tuned to 30-32 hertz. And yes, of course there will be mids and highs to accompany and balance the island, but the dimensions and exact specs of the island are where I'm stuck. Thank you for any help/advice you can give, I look forward to the input!

Ok, so I've seen The band pass box left and right. Even built a few. But I need to shove 4 memphis c3 subs in the trunk of a 90s caprice. I would love to make this guy happy by facing the subs to the rear in the center, and firing the port up at te rear deck. With modifications to the rear deck obviosly. I've built some good systems that hit over the years, but I've always wondered what these boxes sound like. I have a slot port in my truck with one twelve, no big deal building a normal box. So my question is do I have to change anything in the box to fire the port straight up at the back of the box and do they sound good?

Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port

Hi guys so basically I was wondering if I could use the SMD sunflash alone and on its own (no matting no paint) on the outside of my box to offer protection from the elements of rain ice and snow or if I should just use some standard polyurethane for this? I'm not very familiar with paint products but if I did use the Sunflash resin over the polyurethane my understanding is that there is no mixing required, it is ready to be applied straight out of the can but I do have a few questions/concerns regarding its use... (1)should I sand or prep the smooth MDF wood prior to applying the first coat of resin? (2)should I lightly sand the resin between coats? (3)how many coats should I apply for it to withstand direct exposure to water and moisture? (4)is it best to be rolled or brushed on? (5)how much will a gallon cover on average (6)Lastly does this stuff tend to dry clear or cloudy? Thanks to everyone who took the time to address my needs here and offer any tips experience or advice all input is greatly appreciated!

I'm trying to figure out how many cubes and what to tune each side of a 6th order bandpass for a single sundown zv4 15 and how many sqin's the ports should be. It's a d2 rev2 and will be ran on a shark 3500.1 amp. Its going in the extended cab of my 2004 f150. I want it musical and loud lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I new to building bandpass boxes and I could really use the help. Thanks!!

Hey what's up everyone? My plans for the 4 OA 15's fell through due to an unexpected hit to my budget. Would have really liked to had that set up but I am going to have to settle for an AQ HDC3 18 that I am going to order first thing Monday morning. I will be throwing 2.5k rms to this sub so I guess I need to build the box a little on the smaller side due to the over powering factor. I am wondering if anyone could help me out with a box design for a Tahoe? Looking to have a box around 6-7ft^3 and tuned 34-36hz. My max dimensions are below and I know I won't use anywhere near that much space but just gives an idea of what I have to work with. Just so everyone knows I'm serious this time the funds are in the account and ready to go Monday. Also will start buyin box materials as soon as I get a design and cut sheet down Any help will greatly be appreciated. -James Max dimensions: 19.5"h x 37.5"d x 48"w

i just picked up some aa havoc 12s that i'm going to throw in my 2001 monte carlo. its going to be my first box build but i need some help with the design. i feel like the re box design site isn't too accurate and do not know how to use others so all help/designs will help. here's what i had measured from my trunk to work with, 34 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and 21 inches deep, but was kinda thinking i should double baffle the front and back? any help would be great, thanks!

at first when i 2x my power to subs i thought it was just panels in truck flexing. yesterday i tried finding where noise was coming from everything look good. so i turned it up and saw the rear sub close to the port was flex a lot harder then the front one. the noise i heard was the mechanical limit of the sub lol. ooops. how do i stop that a baffle or some shit like that. here picks of my box

I need some help designing a box to go in the trunk of my 2001 taurus. I have 1 AQ HDC3 15 (alum coils), and will be powering it with an aq 2200. My electrical is good so im not worried about that, i just need the box to fit in the trunk. Max dimensions are roughly 38x34x13. Someone please help me with some ideas for this box. Thanks!

Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you

So just to state this is not a VS thread. I just want to know what the advantages or disadvantages of say running 2 12s that are 1k rms ea over say a single 12 at 2k rms or even a single 15 at 2k rms

I designed a box for a Soundqubed HDC3 18 that will fit in the back of my Mazda pick up. It will be running off a Cadence 2500.1 (1200rms) with stock electrical but will be doing the big 3 very soon. Opinions? Here are the specs: 7.98Ft^3 Net Volume 32.74Hz tuning W- 50in D- 18in H- 23in Port- H- 16.5in W-6.75in Length- 23in 14in^2 of port area per foot Driver displacement is included w/ bracing

your first one was deleted was that not hint enough?

Hi Guys, I just joined the forum. I kept reading and trying to educate myself last two weeks but there is nothing similar to my case. I recently bought a Corvette C6 Convertible and I want to install my single RockFord P3D4-12 (already have it) and I want to built a custom ported enclosure. This is where it gets tricky. The requirement for ported enclosure for my sub is 1.8 cu. ft. which is basically taking almost all the space in the trunk (not a problem for me). My question is what kind of design should I choose for maximum (being tuned to 32hz) output? I have three options in my mind, First; Sub up, port back. In this case, I can full fill 1.8 cu. ft. easily but the problem is sub facing up, there is almost no air room between sub and the trunk. Plus it can rattle a lot (this can be fixed maybe) Second; Sub and port facing back with an angle or it wont fit (height is 12.5"). Plus side is, I can use the back wall but the distance will be short. Negative side is it will be hard to reach 1.8 cu. ft. Third and last; Port and Sub facing to the driver with an angle (it has to be with angle or wont fit). This is my least favorite but then again it is a 2 seater car. I think I might be the only one with this case. Help is much appreciated, Please help, I am going crazy. Thank you guys.