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Hey guys im doing my first build 3 skar evl 15s dvc 2ohm on a ts 3.5 I was gonna do a flat wall but everyone I know personally who does comps says if this is for me anf not for comps I need to do a fourth order cause it's more musical and has more bandwidth i wanna do demos but really i just love bass I've tried bass box 6 and win isd and on regular ported walls it wasnt a problem to get good response on the graph but when I try it with the 4th order calc no matter what i do I cant get the tuning right i want it tuned where its peaking between 32 and 55 Hz tops I don't know a bunch about it all i know is i love bass and I am a noob to all competitors I've read over an hour a day for 9 months and finally got the basics but still know nothing theres so much to learn but im dedicated i got everything for it ho alt batts subs amp and all power cable ran but cant build the box correctly cause i cant do the specs and don't wanna mess up the subs from doing it wrong I know it's time consuming and has no benefit to you but if someone could please help id be eternally grateful the box max external specs are 42d 36h 40w so it leaves plenty of room for the 2:1. And the subs rec enclosure are 3.5-3.75 sealed 3.5-4.0. Ported thanks so much for even reading this ridiculously long post if someone would help I will build and show results so they can know there time wasnt wasted -hooplah-

I need help guys! Is there anyway possible someone could draw me up something on sketchup or something similar for two skar ma-8, they are recommended 1 cuft per sub tuned to 35hz, I have no real experience designing boxes and all help would be greatly appreciated

Okay, so I have two d4 skar ma-8 and a skar rp1500, I have them in a box that was extremely successful with two DD audio 508's in them but it sounds horrible with the skars, I would very much appreciate if someone could maybe draw me something up to fit them, I'm going for a spl/daily build, maybe tuned to 35 hz?

So I have an 1987 toyota Pickup/Hilux, regular Cab 2wd with a 5 speed transmission in it, was wondering if anyone knows if there is a prefab sub-box for behind the seat. Have a small wedge in there right now on a Clarion 10" sub, yes it isn't the most powerful thing out there that would fit but it was 100$ and it shakes the truck, but the box pushes into the seat a little making it not the most, comfortable ride ever. Great little A-B truck but not really the long road hauler I am looking for. Was wondering if anyone knew of a box or by chance has a box just laying around that fits right over the center trans tunnel in the cab. There is also the factory jack location as well but can easily remove that. looking for something that can fit a 10" piston sub. On an MB Quart FX1.700 amp. Power the sub nicely with extra in it if I ever want to upgrade. -Audio system- Pioneer head unit (bought used) Rockford prime 4" dash speakers Rockford prime 6X9 with boxes behind the seat Generic wedge box for 10" sub 10" Clarion piston sub MB Quart FX1.700 amp -Little demo of the system- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhH7x8_XszQ

I am very new to most things car audio, and being new I am not really looking to build a box to the exact specifications of my subwoofers manual. I would like to find something as close as I can get however. and I'm looking for suggestions. The sub is wired to 2 ohms My setup is Subwoofer: http://alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d4 Amp: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601 Box: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12-single-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-charcoal/6504011.p?id=1218747923938&skuId=6504011 I am completely oblivious to whether my current box is even close to what my sub should have. It was just what was available and cheap with my discount. I'm looking for something close to the manufacturer's recommended specs (if they are whats best). The specifications can be found on the right side of page three of the manual in this link. I'm looking for the Vented box. https://www.manualowl.com/m/Alpine/SWS-12D4/Manual/276124 Thanks in advance for any help guys its very much appreciated!

Just got a new enclosure design for 2 12 AB subs, the port is 3.5 inches wide. I showed a friend the design and he is said the port should be wider. What is the concept behind port size? Bigger louder? Smaller cleaner sound? Is it a calculation? Or is it just based on personal preference?

Alright, so I have designed my box. 1.72 sealed/3.0 ported. 8 inch aeroport tuned to 42hz. Sub is a single zv3 15, amp as of now is a sundown 1500 (I plan on upgrading to over 3k soon). I have drawn out some box sketches and played around in WinISD and Torres box calculator. Do the box numbers (cft, tuning, port size) sound right? I know theres a lot to play around with when it comes to box designs. I know some people will think "Just build it and see if it sounds good", but Im only 18, so I dont have all the money in the world, so if I spend this money on building the box and it doesnt turn out well, im just out that amount of money. I just want to hear some opinions on the box, good or bad. I've designed plenty of sealed/ported boxes, but just now getting into the 4th order scene. Appreciate the help

The purpose of this thread is to post your measured impedance plots (or values) for discussion. There are competitors that may not be inclined to share their data, but I still hope some experienced people will chime in. Its not called box rise, its called impedance rise, and there's a reason for it. Impedance rise is affected by the final impedance you're wired to, the characteristics of your enclosure, and perhaps some other factors. So it cannot be completely contributed to the enclosure alone. This is a really busy subforum so I was apprehensive to start this thread here, but since the primary constituents are subs and enclosures, this is where the discussion belongs. Hopefully we get enough traffic to get it stickied, since there's a lot to learn from even a single impedance plot.

Building a box for 4 sundown E8's to go in the trunk to sit flush against the rear seats and port out the rear seat opening (ski pass). The attached picture has a rough draft of the design it is a angled box with dimensions of 36"width x 14"tall x 16"top depth x 24"bottom depth. Volume of each sub camber (RED) is 1.344ft3 and port area (BLUE) is 1.5" wide with a area around 18.75 tuned to around 33-34 hz. Mainly just need to know what happens to that tuning once it reaches the center chamber (with the front of the subs) and out the ski pass.

Hey there, I have two 15" Earthquake DBXI subwoofers that are currently in a sealed enclosure and I'm looking to go ported. My car is a 2003 Monte carlo - My amp is an Alpine 1k - The trunk space available is 36" wide - 31" Deep - 16" Tall The subwoofers are 6 3/8" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to the bottom of the magnet if that helps I listen to a lot of rap (Gucci Mane, Future, etc) and I'm a huge fan of low bass (Decaf <3) but I'd still like to be able to handle mid range bass also Im not opposed to any style of box I Just want it to sound better Please let me know if you need any more info! Will appreciate any help someone can give!

So i need some advice on deciding a new setup for my 2010 gmc sierra crew cab. As of now, i have a bad setup with 2 rf p1 12's under the backseat sealed. I wanted to do a ported box like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMqdmKnwjL0 however, i talked to a local audio store owner and he said i could never get a good sounding ported box under my seats, any thoughts? He said i should just do 2 JL 10 inch w1's sealed because thats the best setup he's heard in a truck like mine.

Would like someone to please explain this in further detail. Tried searching for a while and never found a good explanation. This is what I have came out with for 2 SA-10's.

Hi guy's , just bought a Brand new JVC DRVN 12inch (Black cone) , going to run at 4ohm as is a single voice coil , off a 250 rms jvc amp . Please help me design a box !!! Medium size , Good for music but also hitting low for some shake (Y) maybe 34hz or 36 what you reckon ?? Want a basic rectangular port Please can someone advise me on box dimensions . Either inches or mm for each piece , send me a link to a good box , and help me figure a good HZ tune . Thanks guys Ollie(16) from New Zealand Subwoofer - http://www.jvc.co.nz/CS-G1200.html Subwoofer spec's - http://www.jvc.co.nz/assets/pdf-manual/CS-GD1200.pdf

Hey guys, Just started using the SMD forum so sorry if Im not in the right area or something. Im trying to design and build a box for 2, 12in XX Re Audio subs. I currently have a single xx in a 2.25cu ft box tuned to 30hz and it slams. I want to double up the sub though for some more bass. \m/ If anyone can help me design a box Id be really thankful! I dont have any software and looking for someone to just help out I want to do somewhere around 5-6 cu ft tuned anywhere from 30-34hz. Here are some parameters. Re-1.0645 ohm Fs-32.2101hz zmax-12.6341ohm Qes-0.5635 Qms-6.1248 Qts-0.5161 Le-0.9059mH Diam-254mm Sd-50670.7504 mm^2 Vas-29.6566L BL-10.7141 Mms-300.2708g Efficiency- 0.1652% Sensitivity- 84.1993 dB Xmax-54mm Really any help would be great guys. Thanks-Andy.

Hello Everyone, I've been watching Steve for awhile now. I love his car builds, especially the Lexus, but I'm really interested in his shop towers. I'd like to modify this idea and create a kitchen island that can house 4 subwoofers and use passive radiators. The other interesting aspect I'd like to throw into this is that I'm looking to make the box an octagon. Here are the details I'm working with; I was originally going to do a rectangle island with 4 SMD 18" AA subs, but seeing as those are discontinued and AA hasn't mentioned anything about a new line, I'm currently looking into using 4 DC Audio Level 6 m3 18" subs instead. These subs are supposed to have 6 cubic feet per sub of air space. I know there should technically be 8 passive radiators at 18", but im curious if I could get away with 4. The amps I would be using would mimic Steve's choices: those being a Crown XTI 4000 powering each sub. The length of the sides of octagon are looking to be 24". If you were to look at an octagon, the plan would be to place the passive radiators on the flat sides, as if the octagon was a square, and the subwoofers on the angled sides. So if you were to connect the passive radiators with lines, they would make a "+" sign and the subwoofers would make a "x". Spec List: -(4) DC Audio Level 6 m3 18" subwoofers -(4) Crown XTI 4000 ampllifiers -(4- 18" passive radiators -24" sides - Octagonal box So my question is, can someone help me narrow down exactly how long each side of the octagon should be, how tall it should be, and how many passive radiators I should use to achieve a box that is tuned to 30-32 hertz. And yes, of course there will be mids and highs to accompany and balance the island, but the dimensions and exact specs of the island are where I'm stuck. Thank you for any help/advice you can give, I look forward to the input!

Ok, so I've seen The band pass box left and right. Even built a few. But I need to shove 4 memphis c3 subs in the trunk of a 90s caprice. I would love to make this guy happy by facing the subs to the rear in the center, and firing the port up at te rear deck. With modifications to the rear deck obviosly. I've built some good systems that hit over the years, but I've always wondered what these boxes sound like. I have a slot port in my truck with one twelve, no big deal building a normal box. So my question is do I have to change anything in the box to fire the port straight up at the back of the box and do they sound good?

So I have recently upgraded from P315's to a Fi audio BL15 and I want to build a box for it tuned to 33Hz. The dimensions of my truck are L38xH17xD16. Any ideas guys?

Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port

Hi guys so basically I was wondering if I could use the SMD sunflash alone and on its own (no matting no paint) on the outside of my box to offer protection from the elements of rain ice and snow or if I should just use some standard polyurethane for this? I'm not very familiar with paint products but if I did use the Sunflash resin over the polyurethane my understanding is that there is no mixing required, it is ready to be applied straight out of the can but I do have a few questions/concerns regarding its use... (1)should I sand or prep the smooth MDF wood prior to applying the first coat of resin? (2)should I lightly sand the resin between coats? (3)how many coats should I apply for it to withstand direct exposure to water and moisture? (4)is it best to be rolled or brushed on? (5)how much will a gallon cover on average (6)Lastly does this stuff tend to dry clear or cloudy? Thanks to everyone who took the time to address my needs here and offer any tips experience or advice all input is greatly appreciated!

I'm trying to figure out how many cubes and what to tune each side of a 6th order bandpass for a single sundown zv4 15 and how many sqin's the ports should be. It's a d2 rev2 and will be ran on a shark 3500.1 amp. Its going in the extended cab of my 2004 f150. I want it musical and loud lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I new to building bandpass boxes and I could really use the help. Thanks!!

Hey what's up everyone? My plans for the 4 OA 15's fell through due to an unexpected hit to my budget. Would have really liked to had that set up but I am going to have to settle for an AQ HDC3 18 that I am going to order first thing Monday morning. I will be throwing 2.5k rms to this sub so I guess I need to build the box a little on the smaller side due to the over powering factor. I am wondering if anyone could help me out with a box design for a Tahoe? Looking to have a box around 6-7ft^3 and tuned 34-36hz. My max dimensions are below and I know I won't use anywhere near that much space but just gives an idea of what I have to work with. Just so everyone knows I'm serious this time the funds are in the account and ready to go Monday. Also will start buyin box materials as soon as I get a design and cut sheet down Any help will greatly be appreciated. -James Max dimensions: 19.5"h x 37.5"d x 48"w

i just picked up some aa havoc 12s that i'm going to throw in my 2001 monte carlo. its going to be my first box build but i need some help with the design. i feel like the re box design site isn't too accurate and do not know how to use others so all help/designs will help. here's what i had measured from my trunk to work with, 34 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and 21 inches deep, but was kinda thinking i should double baffle the front and back? any help would be great, thanks!

at first when i 2x my power to subs i thought it was just panels in truck flexing. yesterday i tried finding where noise was coming from everything look good. so i turned it up and saw the rear sub close to the port was flex a lot harder then the front one. the noise i heard was the mechanical limit of the sub lol. ooops. how do i stop that a baffle or some shit like that. here picks of my box

I need some help designing a box to go in the trunk of my 2001 taurus. I have 1 AQ HDC3 15 (alum coils), and will be powering it with an aq 2200. My electrical is good so im not worried about that, i just need the box to fit in the trunk. Max dimensions are roughly 38x34x13. Someone please help me with some ideas for this box. Thanks!

Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you