Jessica

Well, that thread is probably so buried now you'd never find it anyway lol. Don;t forget that P.T. cruisers go to junk yards just like any car. No offence. So you could start there if it turns out to be that. Most the tme cars go to junk yards for 2 reasons. Collisions and transmission/engine failure (then the city says get rid of the broke ass vehicle in your yard or we will fine you) So it goes bye bye.

You know, i saw your old thread on this and i wasn't much help but i am thinking that since it sat for years you may wan't to unplug you pcm or the computer and look at the connection for corrosion. I would just check every plug i could find under the hood that is wire to wire. Then start on the plugs that plug into sensors, like the speed sensor and such. Only other thing i could think is that since you have jump started it so many times and ran the battery dead so many times that maybe the computer is just bad now. I would get it put on a legit scanner not one of those wal-mart ones that just flash a light at you. Break down and pay the $40 bucks to get it checked. Actually i would do that first. Also if it gives codes those could still mean bad sensors or connections and not actually be actual issue.

That's brilliant, i think i'll adapt that to my amp rack so i can disconnect it easier if i have to get access to underneath it. You know what they say about [edit] imitation

it has 45's in the outer corners but not on the inner port wall(the port wall inside the sub chamber) the joint where the port wall turns if 45'ed and there is a 45ish on the back wall where the port T's. If i put polyfill in where the heck would i put it? Also, not that you guys will be able to gather much from this but I know that certain song's like Josh Turners "Eye Candy" with the sealed enclosure the drums and bass line had authority but now is just meh and weak, but say dubstep for instance plays much better and louder. I really don't want to build seven or eight boxes to get what i want. I will try the polyfill and also covering the port and see what happens. Just so you guys know these subs have never done well above 55 or 60hz sealed or ported and the same for 30 and below. I'll keep experimenting and report back. Thanks for the help.

Well, i expect them to play well at tuning not just give up. It's really bad actually. So lets say i throw a pair of vvx's in that box, would i be disappointed? I really don't want to build another box again and i'm limited with dimensions, there is only so much room in the back of that car. edit* btw, I'm leaving for work so if i don't reply instantly that's why.

Ok i go t a box design from joeX, Thanks again btw, tuned to 32hz and while it seems that i built it correctly, I'm not really getting much output at the tuned freq. Basic facts first. 87 accord hatch subs are kenwood w3013ps (any guesses on what p.s. stands for?) Freq response 34-300hz, fs is 25hz Box specs below (i flared the port is the only difference) Subs up port up (slightly louder than subs back port back, way better than subs forward port forward) infrasonic @ 20hz Lpf 80hz I have ran through test tones and it seems that i get the least movement from my subs pretty much right where the tuning is. Which from my understanding of enclosures is the simplest way to tell what an enclosure is tuned to. So anyway, the freq response of the subs is 34 to 300hz and the fs is 25hz. It seems like the response curve from 40 to 25 drops very sharply, peaks 40 to 65 then drops off again. So my question is do i pitch the kenwwod w3013ps's and go with a different set of subs or is it my car or what? the car is an 87 accord hatch. Let me know if i left anything out. Box design as follows

I'm not much of a gearhead unfortunately. I'm just going off of what other people suggested that I do in order to pinpoint what the problem was. some people said that it could be the timing belt, but when I lifted the cover I saw the shitty timing belt almost sheared in half. I really wish I knew more about engines but unfortunately I never had the opportunity in the past to really work on any and gain much knowledge of them I have replaced timing belts on two different cars now, on a kia rio that was an interference engine and it broke 2 exhaust valves and bent several other valves. $600 bucks in repairs on a pos kia that wasn't worth $600 new. the other was on a Mercury Mystic that wasnt an interference, the belt had just a few teeth missing so it would still spin the cams but wouldn't start. $100 inlcuding a new water pump. all the books say that mine is an interference engine, but all the zx2 forums say that it is indeed a non-interference engine and it can be done in anyone's garage. but I know the shops will treat it as an interference engine and charge me the big bucks to get my POS fixed. It's my only way of transportation and I'm a broke ass college student lol I sent you a pm, check it. I'll help you out. it's non interference.

Thats starter or a bad connection to the starter or bad ground. Not a timing belt. But get those belts changed anyway, you are asking for trouble there.

I agree, if it was a bad camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor then it straight up wouldn't start at all so it's gotta be one of those two that you pinpointed... hopefully the starter rather than the timing belt. timing belts are a bitch and I'm going to pay out of the ass to fix mine because i accidentally ripped mine in half in an attempt to remove it lol Pm coming

I'm not much of a gearhead unfortunately. I'm just going off of what other people suggested that I do in order to pinpoint what the problem was. some people said that it could be the timing belt, but when I lifted the cover I saw the shitty timing belt almost sheared in half. I really wish I knew more about engines but unfortunately I never had the opportunity in the past to really work on any and gain much knowledge of them I have replaced timing belts on two different cars now, on a kia rio that was an interference engine and it broke 2 exhaust valves and bent several other valves. $600 bucks in repairs on a pos kia that wasn't worth $600 new. the other was on a Mercury Mystic that wasnt an interference, the belt had just a few teeth missing so it would still spin the cams but wouldn't start. $100 inlcuding a new water pump.

How does it run after it starts? like crap? do you have a check engine light now? did it have trouble starting before? and what do you mean "trouble"? Because now it seems it could be a belt.

If it was the timing belt it would be idling rough or not starting at all.And your starter wont kill your engine. I with the alternator dragging the engine down and killing it or something else. edit. timing belt gets replaced every 60,000 miles. Hope you don't have an interference engine. That belt breaks and it is it will cost you so so much money. But yeah, like i said, its not the timing belt.

Yeah it started right back up after taking the key out of the ignition then starting it again. get someone else there with you and get them to listen near the ground by the rear tire. tell them to listen for a hummmm. that should be the gas pump turning on, just one way to eliminate the problems. another way to look for problems is to check the fuel line to the engine.... there should be a cap that looks like a cap to a bicycle tire.... you want to remove that and press the little pin inside there and if gas sprays then you indeed don't have a blockage in your fuel line. if that's fine then either it's an electrical problem or a timing belt problem. Have you taken out your spark plugs and tried starting the engine to see if each of the spark plugs give off an electrical arc yet? He could have pressure there and still have a bad fuel pump. If the pump is getting bad and hot it will work fine for a while then shut off, but listening for the humm is a good idea. O.P., if it starts to get to where it wont start and you don;t hear that humm you can bang on the tank a few times and it may go ahead and start. Just in case you are not home when it happens.

Looks to me from google images you can take the 4 or so bolts out of the plastic covers on the front of the engine and you will be able to see your timing belt. Just bump the engine over a few times without starting it and look at the belts for missing teeth. or look down around the crank pully behind the cover behind it if you can for pieces of belt.

It's not the timing belt if it started again. If it has a miss now when its running it may have slipped a tooth. It's easy to find out though, sometimes

Did your car start back up? you never said.

We have one of those at work. Nice toy when you are in a factory and it's 130 degrees on the production floor. Man, i'm so glad I don't have to work on the floor anymore. lol

Steve, thanks for posting so many pics. Gets my creative juices flowing. Hopefully after i have made 10 or 20 thousand mistakes I will get skills like this. I am really good at making mistakes lol. edit. i cannot type tonight for the life of me. sheesh.

Shouldn't you remove your for sale thread if you are doing this. I mean you just bumped that thread 2 hours before making this one. wth man?

Dude, if it's on the internet it's true.

Yeah, don't be like me. I didn't have a dd-1 at first and just played by ear, now my coils smell burnt, still read 3.9 ohms but w/e. Only paid 60 for both anyway. Guess my break in was try to break em'

I wanted to jump back in here and add something. today ichecked the ohms on my polk db tweets compared to my intintiy ref 6030cs tweets. they are both 3.4ohm tweets. So i put my polk tweets up front and i have to say it sounds soo much better now. the highs are nice and clean. No ore esssses or harshness. I doubt anyone would go to the trouble of buying 2 sets of comps just to make a good pair, i just thought i would share.

Did you have the amp bridged running to one set of mids, or just hooked up normal?

Did you reheat the solder till it melted again after it cooled?

Take that stupid belt guard off, then it will get more airflow, i mean what is that a girls bike or a car?. plus the radiator fans will blow on it.