smceachran

im going to be checking everything tomorrow i didn't have the time today. im probably going to just completely redo the stereo myself as well.

it is not a honda and i actually didnt install the stereo in this car it was installed before i got it. as for the remote wire it is in the right spot on my stereo in accordance to how it should be done but since the radio is not in right it may actually be in a bad spot now that i think about it. i just ruled out the remote wire since it worked without the engine on.

So i have a crunch pza 1400.4 being used as a 2 channel amplifier for 2 kicker cvrs right now and i have a very weird problem. if i turn my car on to where just the radio is on and the engine is not started everything is fine and it all runs normal, but when i turn the car all the way on the subs then recieve a constant signal from the amp which eventually throws it into protect mode. i cant figure out exactly what the problem is since it works when the engine isnt running but does not work while it is running. any suggestions of what i should do? and dont suggest an upgrade because i will be doing that in a few months anyways and have the plans already worked out.

how would u place the sub if the seat were removed?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32990_Hifonics-Colossus.html 500 dollar amp that would do alright but you will need good electircal.

depends whats the price range for the amp you want?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23547_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ1700.1D.html this would be fine for 2 of those.

ya thats what was really killing me. i wanted to try and make a small section that ran off of the side of the main box just for extra volume in the box, but due to the small space caused by the console i couldnt get anything good.

i cant managed to make a good design that gives you a good amount of port area per foot. you should try using the box calculator torres has on the subwoofer forum. it helps you create your own sized box based on your knowledge of your truck. im not too good at making a box out of just specs id need to see it up close. sorry lol.

are you looking to hit really deep bass notes or more medium to high bass notes? name off a couple songs you would plan on playing so i can see what hertz your box should be tuned to.

i will soon as its done just waiting on tax return money.

12s

i do plan to assemble in the trunk actually.

alright thanks got the specs i need now based off of your reccomendation.

1999 ford taurus. and those are just my trunks dimensions nothing to do with the new box i want to build. well it has to do with the box but the dimensions listed arent the box dimensions. lol

42" wide 36" deep 14" tall are my trunks dimensions

i knew you were gunna troll me you mofo. -___-

Hey i have the tuning calculator on this subject but i dont know how to build a box fit for a trunk. I want a box that will help my subs have the maximum output at 34hz. basically the title says it all. I dont have the specs of my trunk but throw at me any and all box sizes or designs you have ill figure out how to readjust them for my trunk from there. Any ideas?

have you checked the amps fuses? from what you have said thats the only thing i could think would be broken.

http://images.sc1.netdna-cdn.com/D/2-Channel-GPV1100.2_NS-detailed-image.JPG this amp was my first amp. the Crunch GPV1100.2 Car Audio 2Ch Ground Pounder 1100 Watt Amplifier. I liked the amp and it pushed my 2 12" cvrs pretty well although it would like to keep itself on when i turned my car off sometimes. plus i roasted the shit out of it in 7 months

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23549_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100.1D.html this amp has 0 gauge inputs and rms at 2100 watts 1 ohm. considering the price it seems right in the range you are looking for.

recently my system abruptly stopped working and i bought a whole new wiring kit to try and fix the problem. What i learned is my wires were fine but the fuse on my power wire was broken even though it wasn't blown. i say check all of your fuses with new ones.