Eduardo Andrade

you know theres also a such thing as buttkicker amps? http://www.thebuttki...cts/ssw_amp.htmJS

Okay guys, I really appreciate the help. Today I just took accurate measurements of my trunk, and it looks like my box is going to be 15.5" tall max, 35" wide max, and those are the dimensions I want to use, 15.5" for height and 35" for width, now for the 3rd dimension (depth) I was wondering how an L shaped port like you guys did affects the internal volume and/or tuning frequency, I was messing around with the Speaker Box Tuning Calculator software and I'm assuming they just use a straight port. The way the box is designed doesn't matter to me, I'll keep the L shape if I have to, but what I really want is a box 15.5" high and 35" long to wall off the seats when I pull them down. Anyone wanna help out here? By the way, thanks for all the help guys! Really appreciate it! Bare with me, I'm kinda new lol. Oh yeah! And what kind of software do you guys use to draw/design the box out?

Why would you not take the AP1500 over the ONX1500?

I was actually hoping to have the port in the middle. I'm not asking you to redesign me something but it would be cool if you could! Although, asking for a design WAS the intention of this post. lol so yea, that'd be cool if you could!

Ope didn't see he was out. My bad! I've run the AP15001D and it's good for the price! But spend the little extra and get the AP15001D not the APSM! APSM have more distortion.. Thanks a lot! I read that APSM's were known for doing rated better than AP's. But if the APSM's distort a lot more I think I will go with AP's instead.

Hey guys, the one area I'm least experienced in is building boxes. In fact, I've never built one, I mean I've watched videos of people building them, and I know I can do that part, my friend who said he's built boxes before said he would help me, but I've never DESIGNED one before. I was wondering if you guys could help me out with that part, either quickly design one for me or teach me how to design one. This is what my trunk looks like Not perfectly measured, but to be safe we can say it's 17in tall, 37.5in wide, and 31in deep. I plan on using 2 sa-12's and I want a simple ported box tuned at maybe 31hz if possible. The subs and port will both be facing forward (into the cab) so that when you pull the rear seats down you hear/see the subs and port.

Although 200's a lil more than I wanted to spend and I'm sure I can still come up with the money, I thought I read in his thread that he was out of the HPN1500's already.

So I called every dealer that supposedly sold concept products within a 50 mile radius in my area, and none of them sold amps or they did not represent them anymore. My last call was to the Concept company them selves to ask if they would sell to the general public and they said no. So I guess my choice is gonna be the AP15001d

Wrong kranny, if you actually kept up with meade you'd know that he's coming out with a LOC that actually works. If OP can't do/use any of the options we provided him, the best thing to do is for him to wait for meade to release his LOC. Here it is! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/135501-ninja-pic-more-smd-damore-products-soon/

Not trying to call anyone dumb or anything like that, but I don't think he knows how to fiberglass russell. I'm sure there's plenty places in florida he can take it to though that can fiberglass him one.

I have found you two options, if you don't have the money I recommend you stick with a single din aftermarket head unit and get this dash kit http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5716-Taurus-Sable-Harness/dp/B0002BEYFE/ref=pd_cp_e_0 or you can get the extra space for a double din and get this dash kit http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5718-Single-Installation-2000-2003/dp/B003E3QS2Y But since I know you don't want to spend that kind of money stick with the first option.

I plan on trying to get 2 sa-12's for now I just want a budget amp like the ones I gave examples of in my first post oh yeah, and I plan on wiring in 1 ohm (D4)

I'm having trouble finding good amps, I only need around 12-1500 watts at the moment. I'm hoping I can get the money for the HPN1500 on ebay before the last one is bought out But if I can't get it I was wondering if you guys could list a couple decent 12-1500 watt amps. If I couldn't get it I thought about going with the Cadence F1200-1d I'm not too sure on how this amp performs, but I was wondering if you guys could recommend a couple others. Edit: If a mod could please delete the other post, I clicked the post button twice and it posted it twice, plus the other post has errors.

A aftermarket dash kit for my car cost me $186.00 what make/model/year is it?

Too bad she's not the one driving the bike

50 is not low, 15 is. You still made a fool of your self... I didn't say one time that 50 was low as I can recall. I said, I was looking on SSA site at the specs on the SK-1500D, and it says that the frequency response is 50-270hz. Are the specs on here or are the specs on SSA correct, because I LOVE the LOWS. I didn't one time say that 50 was low. Exactly why you made a fool of your self. If you know for a fact that 50 is not very low, at least not as low as 15, then why would you ask if the specs are correct? You should know.

50 is not low, 15 is. You still made a fool of your self...

what's drop box?! hey guys, didn't google start a drop box service recently? google it! or use mediafire!

How much do you have to spend on an amp?

Hit hard? Not hard enough to hear you down the block. But maybe hard enough to give you a little punch to your music.

Thanks many for the idea, and yeah, the controller does have a sensitivity adjustment knob, so setting gains and going too high shouldn't be a problem because it doesn't seem easy to do. Just turn the sensitivity up a small notch, and start the gain at the lowest point, if it still doesn't light how I want it I can turn the sensitivity up some more. Still not lighting properly? Turn the sensitivity down again, and turn the gain a small notch up. Turn sensitivity up. Repeat the process until you can achieve desirable results by only having to use the sensitivity knob. By the way, does the sub out on HU's only put out low frequency? Or is it the same as every other rca? I may be mistaken but I thought that was the way it works, maybe it's only labeled sub because it's selectable (so you can turn the vol up and down separate from the main volume on the HU)

When I say accurate lighting, I mean because I know the mic will pick up other sounds unless it's made to pick up only certain frequencies. So instead of using the mic I want the device to only hear whatever comes out of my amplifier, which will be bass (lower frequencies). So I have clean sound going to the controller therefore accurate lighting. Kind of like when you wire led strips directly to the amplifier, only I don't want to do that because I know the amp wouldn't be able to handle as many leds as I throw at it, with the controller the leds are powered by the battery, up to 6a worth, so the only thing it needs now is the amp/line driver to tell the controller to tell the lights when to light up. If I use only the controllers mic, I wouldnt want to have to turn the bass up like all the way with my mids/highs low just to get my lights to light up, I want the levels of the volume to be as I want it, but I only want the lights to light up to bass. That's the whole point of this project/experiment. I think I may buy both the amp and the line driver and maybe a couple of controllers to see what happens.

I will when I get the money, these are only ideas for now. But thanks for the help/advice guys.

ok, so I would use the line driver I just showed you and strip one end of the rca's and wire it to that? and wicks, the point of this project is to have accurate lighting, I'm not going to use the mic and this is a project/experiment. I don't mind overdriving the controller, as long as all my other equipment isn't damaged.

So you mean strip an rca and wire the microphone input to it and connect the other end of the rca to the amplifiers output? That's what I was asking earlier, though I don't think I would want to do that, that would be the last thing I do. Does the input sensitivity have to match the first amplifiers? The EV2.200 has a selectable switch and one of the options is 100mV, is that low enough?