john253a

laroxx in for the kill (slowed) and all i can say Got Decaf?

how do you think the other 95% of the world do it, only people on this forum no off the dd1, and most cant justify its purchase, for 1 off build every now and then, mine was just on $380us shipped to aust, and i only no of 1 other within 200miles, as for shop none i have spoke to have a ddm, and only 2 in my state have a oscilloscope, and idd say it pretty close to the same results in other countries outside the us. half the shop install ive re-tuned after there install, just turn the all the gains on the amp to around 1/4 and leave it there, then tell them they have to come back to get it tuned when the sub/ speaker are broken in, and it will be an additional charge

budget, and what do you have already,

without more info noone can answer that, why have you been through so many?

Idd average 1-2 a week but not ofterent for 4 sub and all my boxes are double baffled and heavily braced, I look at this way woods cheap, If I have to fix it, that costs me money and a bad name, And word of mouth travels quick when it's bad

Habbits of my trade I reckon, over engineer everything,

its a start, to build upon, my idd never fit 4 L712 in a 3/4" box, idd want at-least 1" if not 1.5" (depending on power) just have to wait for more info

without knowing the chartists of that sub i can say how musical it will be be down low with a 41hz tune, someone else here may know, but even to fit the port in is going to be a problem, i allowed for the entire port in displacement through

the best i can get 12x13x20 1cuft net 1x 4" aero 17" long 18 overall @ 41hz should get real loud, but not as low as some may have like

what do you have, or think you have,

there must be issues with what ever language your typing in, unless your 12, and still learning english, dont take it to offence, "i just want to have an idea of having a port side firing" your had it, do you want to do it, ive explained how to use torres to do it, youve been asking this question since before may this year for the same subs, your not getting the answers you want to here, because half sentences answers that no one understanding, is the problem

if i were you i fire both back or both forward, your after sq right, your not going to get as much with the port rattling the fuck out of your trunk, unless you start, second skinning/ dynamat the thing, have you downloaded torres, from the sticky section, it worth it,

how far from the 31"width it the side wall of the trunk so you want sub back, port to drivers side/side firing and you still need max dimensions, 12x31x15, is that to all the wall or what you want to use, like to help, but your not making it easy,

when you say the rear wall that mean the sub will be firing the to the centre of the trunk (side firing) and the port to the rear, you also need to be more specific on the details, 1500 amp is what, 1500watts,1500rms each, both, also need trunk dimensions, we no what you will to give up 12x31x15

why side port, there is a possibility, paint cracking due to panel flex with side ported, on the side of port + more panel flex = less output, ive seen it happen before, (but not with 8's, but these aren't your average 8 either)

now if you'll like some help you need to post some info on you want help with, car, power, sub, sub/port direction measurement max, to all walls measurements you'll like to work within and your overall goal

lets say this is the box you want to build, but because torres, is limited you'll need to do it like this 1st box you want but how you need it input it, is like so

need more info? car, power, 30d is how close to rear door? idd prefer close to 150sq" of port but in the space available its not going to happen, but with some more info you'll get there, (also i only estimated the sub displacement)

as said before, if your cuts are straight, no silicon is needed, for small gaps, make a paste with glue and sawdust shavings and push it in there, if you choose to use silicon on the gaps make sure you push it in to the gap and not just as a nice bead over them, also make sure you use a flexible silicon, otherwise with the movement of the box, and curing it will crack or shrink, and no longer work as intended you also need to be aware that with some silicones you need to wait 24-48hr+ before you can fit you sub, as the fumes can break down the surround of your sub (weather it be fact or fiction, i dont have the money to test it out so i just wait) also no form of paint, of any type will be a long term fix to seal up a box (even if flexi-add is used)

if you have torres, change the width and depth around, but it only works if you dont double baffle, if you are double baffling youll need need to minus the baffle in the box od so as not to change the volume

Meserments are a must Just because you have 6gross doesn't mean you'll fit either, Post some meserments, work out what you have and pick a sub bassed on that, Then you will have something that you no will fit and work in the elected space

With 3/4 all round you can get more port then you need, 2" front isn't nessercerly 1.5" is good enough, Your only as strong as your weakest piece, If you use square for bracing you need to round the edges, As for brace in port if you run top to floor at 7" you'll need it, some just use 3/4 mdf down the centre splitting top from bottom, NOT left to right

Your port need to match the type of sub you have, The 15" you have require 50-60sq" each so 200-240sq" for 4 You can run a smaller port but there is a possible of port noise and less output(the primary reason for a wall)

You need to atleast double the face, and brave the hell out of it, Or your wish you had, when your rebuilding it in an few months, Idd do 2 1"dowel front to back 1 side to side at back of port 2 inside port side to side 1 on each side to port wall And 2 top to bottom( 1 each side)

if you can follow that throught the bend its better, but if not just make sure the l1 and l2 are 3.375"