wonderboy

Yummm

So basically I'm stuck with a blown sub and a shitty amp. Looks like I better start savin them bucks again. Edit: I don't think you guys understand how hard my car gets bounced around sometimes, I really think it could break some equpiment. But that still doesnt change the fact that my sub is blown.

Its all in my sig, amp is a SoundStorm EV5000D @ 1 ohm. Big 3 in 0 gauge, and a XS Power D3400 under the hood. Gain was just over halfway up, and it sounded really clean and like it could take more power. I haven't played it out of the box but just pushing on the cone you can hear it rubbing. I'm actually from Granger, but yea! The picture of my car was taken on the same parking garage as those pictures of your Jimmy I think. Haha small world.

Last week I finally got my 15 in my Eclipse, and yesterday I had to take it out. The coil is rubbing pretty bad and it sounds like shit, but I'm not sure if its blown, as I've never blown a sub before and I'm not sure what that sounds like exactly. The sub is rated at 2500 rms and it was getting around 1800. Maybe the sub is just a piece of shit, BUT, could hard bumps (hard enough to make my windsheild wiper lever fall into the first notch) possibly have damaged my sub somehow? I've got 18 inch wheels and lowering springs, plus, most of the roads in Indiana are terrible. Sometimes you can't avoid some turbulence.

Alright, thanks I don't think it had a brand name on it but it was about 80 bux on ebay for 50 feet. It looks like copper to me, unless you look really close at the ends of the strands, so I guess thats good. but its definitely not true 0 gauge. And yea, I am going to ground on my negative battery terminal.

With one run of each pos and neg?

200 at the very most

I bought some cheap CCA 0 gauge off ebay and I'm kinda regretting it already. My original plan was to do the big 3 and then have both a positive and a negative run from my battery up front to the amp in the trunk. Would I be better off doing that, or just doing two positive runs and then grounding to the chassis in back? Buying better 0 gauge isnt an option, unfortunately.

Sweet, thanks for the input.

Would it be alright to use some aluminum distribution blocks for 8 gauge speaker wire? I have a dvc sub and a monoblock amp with only one pair of terminals, and I'm wiring in parallel so I was going to machine some nice little blocks so i wouldnt have to stuff two wires in one hole. lol. Anyways, this wouldnt cause any distortion or bad resistance, would it?

It is a small window, i'm not stupid.

I'm just using a couple layers of some thinner plexiglass (1/4") that they were about to throw out at work. Its probably a lot easier to find than the thick stuff.

Ahh, that'll work way better than paper towels. Thanks

So I started on a new box for my MA audio hk15 (haters gonna hate, right?) and I'm not slackin on the glueing. Its been getting pretty messy, and I was just wondering if you guys have any special tricks to keep the glue from dripping everywhere. Maybe I'm just messy, but I'm getting tired of glueing all my tools to the work bench.

I bought this one from Sonic, expecting to get the one that is advertised. I'm sure if you were to buy there, you'd get this same one.

Check it out

You have any pics you can put up? IDE like to see the new model if it's different from the ones im looking at Yea, I can put some up after i get home from work tonight.

Just got one, but havent got the box built or got an amp yet. Right on the basket is a label that says 2500 RMS 5000 MAX, so I'm not sure how accurate sonic's specs are. Seems very well built to me though. Edit: And the magnet looks different too, so maybe its just a newer model and sonic hasnt posted the new pictures and specs yet.

Yea, I think I got it. Thanks for the input!

I'm not sure what you mean. I can't have the port facing forward at the top because the sub will be right there behind where the opening would be. And the port can't face up because the top side of the box is just wide enough to fit the sub. I think it'll be fine where I have it in my design now, I just have no idea how long it should be.

The bump wont cover the port, thats the reason for that notch out of the bottom front edge of box. the port goes over the top of it. the top edge of the box will be against the top of the back seats, and since the seats are tilted, i'll have a few inches between the port and the back of the seats. And I'll just ride with the seats down anyways unless i need room for passengers.

I really appreciate it, thanks, and I probably will need some advice here soon. And music without bass is almost not even worth listening to, I'd rather listen to the sound of my engine. lol

I don't care about my trunk so much, I'd rather have the room for the box. Its whats inside the box that counts I'll definitely post pics of what I decide to do and how it all turns out. I just need to get started on this asap, I sold my 12s today and I'm already craving some bass.

Ohhh, gotchya. Yea I could do that, the sub is going to be facing up anyways. I was also planning on adding a plexiglass window right above the port to show off the fat shiny magnet... but thats only if i can get some thick plexiglass scrap on the cheaps. Haha that shit is expensive

There wasnt even carpet or anything except a spare tire in the trunk when i got the car, right now i just have a piece of mdf that i cut to fit thrown in there. works for me.