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Found 35 results

  1. im adding a battery in the trunk and ran out of 1/0 for the ground but i have plenty of 4 guage can i use a few runs of it to ground the battery?
  2. hello everyone, just a newbie here with some questions In regards to my wiring and battery. But first a little background and my agenda. my car is an 07 Volkswagen rabbit 4 door 2.5l auto. I purchased this car as a commuter car, as my 01 Jeep Cherokee wasn't good in the fuel mileage area. when I purchased the rabbit used, there was some previous audio work already done. there was a Pioneer double din display installed, along with a power amp for the mids. Now maybe I am the little over kill type, but I don't feel that the 4 awg power/ground wire is adequate enough. especially considering its CCA. Now in my Jeep I ran 1/0 welding cable, that mild system was a mean machine powering a Kicker CVR 2 ohm 10" sub in a sealed box, along with a MTX mid amp powering 4 kicker ks600s. i don't think 1/0 is necessary in my Rabbit let alone my Jeep. I am working on a similar system, though my current mid amp is an audio planet 1200watt 4 channel amp and my sub is a Skar audio rp350.1 with a ix 10v 2. I may upgrade the Skar, but won't know until my sub is broke in. my goal is a loud and clear system. I was thinking of upgrading my wire to 2 awg, doing the big 3, and replacing my battery. so I thought would get you opinions. one thing that comes to mind with my Jeep when I was pushing my system, my lights and volt meter would drop. I never performed the big three with it nor did I get a better battery. my concern is that I will have the same issue and along with my battery not testing so well, I will end up dead in the water someday. some day I will focus on the door speakers, eq, and crossovers. but for now, I want to focus on adequate power. thanks
  3. Good day SMD community, About to undertake electrical wiring upgrade on my 2017 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost XLT. Alternator is not super accessible so I'm thinking this may be tricky and wondering if anyone else has done big 3 on a 2015 up f-150 and can provide some direction. Pics and tricks for this specific vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Any advice/recommendations are appreciated. Planning out a new system build for my 2001 Ford Escape. The new system will include two soundqubed 18's (HDC3s or HDC4s if I can find them for the right price) in a 12 cube ported box. For amps I'm either going to strap two CAB 1600s or just get a taramps 8K. My question is whether one XS Power d3400 will be enough (along with a d1200) or should I go for the d3100. I have a stock alternator (110 amps) without the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge welding cable from front to back. Current system has a kicker KX 2400.1 (2600 watts rms) with a XS Power d1200.
  5. I've have my soundqubed hdc315 d2 hooked up to 12awg cca wire using wire nuts, which I know isn't preferred but I can't find 8awg butt connectors anywhere, and I don't have a terminal on my box. How do I wire this properly to 1ohm at the amp? Also powering my sub I have a soundqubed sq2200.2 and I'm wondering if while I have my sub out if I should hook up some 8awg ofc wire? Or will there be no difference in supplying the power to the sub? Thank you.
  6. I recently upgraded my audio system - added 4 channel amp for door speakers, subamp for subwoofer. Work is complete. Now i have to set the gains on the amp. I'm trying to see if anyone might be willing to let me use their dd-1. Thanks,
  7. Okay So i have a 90 Bronco, I just got a new amplifier "My old one did the same thing" so anyways when ever i turn the Key to (On) position the amplifier fade in slowly how it should. Now when I start my truck, the subs will go "BANG" loudly as the head unit turns on after starting the engine. My Amplifier is a Power Bass 600.2; also yes it's all wired correctly "I'm a freak when it comes to making things look good and connecting it right, not half ass shit" anyways Remote is connected to the (Blue Remote Out) A.K.A Antenna Signal) same thing. But this only happens when I start my Truck. I have grounds every where "Also lets Mind You that all the ground points are Shiny Wire brushed Ground Points" So I know for a fact I have great Grounds EVERYWHERE even for the head unit I ran it's own ground to Bare Unpainted Metal. If this helps I have... Pioneer DEH-150MP Head Unit Power Bass 600.2 Bridged Running Two 12" Kicker Comps. Amplifier power Wire is 4 Gauge & the Remote Wire is a 18 Gauge All the Wiring Kit is a good Quality kit.
  8. xpoppadaddyx

    Running 1/0 Wire Through Vehicle

    Showing how to run wire through a vehicles cab from the battery to the trunk with no drilling holes in the firewall. Be sure to subscribe.
  9. Hello fellow bassheads, I need help finding out what is my problem with my amp and subwoofer system. i have the system hooked up for approximately 1 yr and 1/2 now and it recently gave me some problems. A few days ago i notice that i wasnt thumping anymore so i checked up on it and it was not playing. So i first check the hardware (Hifonic brutus 1100watt & 2 sundown e8v2). All hardware work and then i refer to the troubleshooting process on the manufactures manual and did the remote power test (used a wire to link the 12v power to the remote wire) and it worked. So i figured i had some loose ends on the remote wire side. My remote wire is wired to the cigarette lighter 12v plug. So i proceed to checking the fuse and it was not burnt (changed it to a brand new fuse anyways). Still didnt work, Then i did a straight linked from the cig lighter to the remote terminal. and it still doesnt work. So now im clueless of why it doesnt work!?!? (keep in mind the linking the power terminal to the remote terminal works) If anyone has any ideas of whats the problem let me know.. PLEASE!! Thanks in advance
  10. Hello all, I am in the process of redoing the factory stereo completely and have decided to go bigger than I thought I would lol!. System is Rockford P1000x5 running 4 6.5's and 1 12" Rockford p3 at 1 ohm. I have 2 more p3's waiting to go in along with a p1000x2. Looking to upgrade alternator to Mechman 270 amp with all needed beefier wiring etc....When hooking up this alternator would you connect the factory power wire to it as well as 1/0? Any issues that I may deal with going this route? Thank you for any and all advice!!
  11. Aistis Šestakauskas

    dual 2 ohm voice coil wireing

    Hello everyone. I want to ask how can i connect my dual 2ohm voice coil woofer to amp mcHammer vulcane 2400? Can i use two channels of amp?
  12. Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's. My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront... As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries. My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?) Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!
  13. Hello guys/gals, I'm installing the rest of my electrical in the rear today, which consists of two AGM's and the wiring coming from the 3rd AGM up front. All will be run in parallel. Trying to make it look as nice as possible, while keeping it portable. I have to take my subs and electrical out the car when the boss is in town. I know, it sux... Anyway, my question is this. I have a RF Dist Block, (1) 1/0 in, (2) 1/0 out... I wanted to ground to my original grounding point on the chassis behind my back seat, and also, run a ground wire directly to my negative battery post. So, I will have two ground wires, one coming from NEG battery post, one coming from chassis, into the Distro Box. Then one wire to the Ground on my amplifier, a SoundQubed Q2200.1. My other amp is grounded fine up front, so not worried about that one. Do I need to fuse the Batt - to Distro block? Or do I keep all ground wires, even coming from battery, non-fused? I know where to put the fuses on the POSITIVE side, all good there. So, I don't think I fuse the grounds, but I want to make sure for peace of mind. I don't need an explosion in the rear of my car! Any help will be appreciated!
  14. Mr DeeBeez

    Want to buy 1/0 gauge wire

    Looking for some 1/0 gauge wire. i need at least one run at about 17-20 ft. willing to buy up to 30 ft. please help me out!
  15. I am sure I've seen it before, but can't quite put my broken eyes on where, however I am looking for a pair of adapters that will allow me to connect 0 gauge wire into 4 gauge terminals on an amp. The terminals on the amp are spaced apart by the remote input which is in between the power and ground. The Power and ground terminals are 4 gauge inputs and I want to be able to turn them into 0 and wire them with said gauge. Can someone please point me in the direction as to where these are located? Thank you very much. -G
  16. Hey Guys, I have an 08 F150 Supercrew with a 110A alternator. I recently built a new box for a Soundqubed HDS312-D4 and it is running on a Power Acoustic A2400DB at the moment. I want to get my sub a more worthy amp and have decided on the Q1-2200D, That will match the subs 1200wrms and still allow for an upgrade later on if I decide I need more. My question is what electrical upgrades do I need to do before getting the amp? This will be my first system since the early nineties that will require any electrical upgrades and I have no clue where to start. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
  17. Here is my current setup, I am new here so if I miss anything please let me know. The vehicle is a 03 Ford Explorer Sport(not sport trac) Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X896 Front speakers are Focal 165 A1SG components Rear speakers are Focal 1656 CA1SG coaxials 4-Channel Amp is a JL Slash 300/4v2 I used a Stinger 4 AWG wiring kit (SK6241) and their mid level RCA's to connect the amp, making sure to put an inline fuse about 8 inches away from the battery. The system has run great for the past year and a half until yesterday. While driving on the highway with the volume set to 27(75%) the sound cut out randomly. It came back on about 3 seconds later and played for a minute and cut off again, this time taking around 10 seconds before turning back on. Eventually it got to where I would only get a flicker of audio and it would be off most of the time. I checked out the amp and saw the green power LED would come on an off every 3 seconds. When metered, I saw it start at 14v with the green LED on, then drop to 8v in a matter of seconds with the LED turning off under 10v. The voltage would then raise back up to 13.5v or so and repeat. When I checked the fuse under the hood I found this. The melted end had the wire coming in from the battery I also noticed there are circle marks on the sides of the fuse holder if that means anything What I can't figure out is what caused this and why the fuse didn't pop. If anyone here has any ideas fire away
  18. Personally, I have always used solder, where I saturate the stripped cable end in solder, so that the entire bare wire contacts the terminal. This seems to give me an extremely good connection, and I never really thought about other connection methods. Now, I've been seeing a lot of terminals like these recently; http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/1-0-awg-copper-lugs-10-pack-w-heat-shrink-sky-high-car-audio.html and they seem to be gaining a lot of popularity. This indicates to me that crimping might have a lower resistance or something. Either that or people are no longer willing to take the time to solder. Can anyone confirm/deny this? Any numbers?
  19. I need help I am installing a friends system in a 2010 ford fusion and she has a factory head unit (which she refuses to replace) where and how should I run the remote wire. I don't want to tear apart her dash to get to factory head unit. i need help!
  20. Hey everybody, i will be installing a rockford fosgate t2500-1bdcp amp and 2 15 inch T2 subs, there will be a 320a alternator and two xs power batteries. i was wondering if anybody had any suggestions of where i could buy good affordable 0 gauge power wire, both positive and negative. also ground wire. Also does anybody have suggestions for speaker wire
  21. ALL PRICES ARE OBO YOU PAY PAYPAL FEES 1) I got some great budget subs here. FLI Audio 10" SVC 4 ohm 250 rms SOLD 2) DD cm1: it has some like weird scratches on it (see pics). Does not effect performance 1k @ 1 ohm 600 @ 2 ohm 400 @ 4 ohm SOLD 3) CE Auto electric Big 3 kit. 1/0 ofc 5 ft kit I believe. $100 shipped 4) RF BD500.1 SOLD 5) SHCA 1/0 CCA 50 ft roll SOLD 6) 2 AA Chaos d1 10" One makes a mechanical noise. Still works tho. SOLD BNIB SOLD 7) 2 Sound stream 8" subwoofers SOLD I have 1 xscorpion, 2 AT, 1 sound quest fuse holders. 1 250 amp fuses $12 per fuse holder shipped. $5 a fuse shipped $15 shipped for fuse and holder together 9) 3 copper 1/0 set screw lugs $15 shipped 10) Stinger 2 4 gauge in 4 8 gauge out dist. Block $30 shipped 11) Aluminum batt terminals/ buss bars SOLD 12) 3 pairs of used Focal 6.5 speakers $30 shipped a pair 1 pair sold, 2 pairs left 13) 4 SS super tweets. Sexy CF finish $50 shipped a pair 1 pair sold! 1 pair left 14) 3 Used Pyle 6" pro audio speakers $30 shipped for all 3 15) Used Pyle 5" pa speakers $20 shipped for the pair 16) SHCA PROTO TYPE 1/0 CCA wire. This will not fit his 1/0 lugs. 50 ft SOLD
  22. WhiteNastyCharger10

    50' spools OFC 1/0 wire

    Looking for 0 gauge wire OFC, let me know if you have any extra and want some cash for it., looking for spools, 25 and or 50 feet:)
  23. I am upgrading to 2200 watts and I want to know which wire gauge I need for power and ground and for the speakers also what size fuse I need
  24. conbon

    Remote wiring

    Hey guys, Im not sure if this is possible but ive been wandering if i would be able to do this for awhile. if i have one amp installed in my car already, and i want to put another amp in but not wire the remote start from the new amp to the head unit, but instead, just wire the remote start from the new amp to the amp thats already installed and just wire the two wires together or would this cause an interruption or something?
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