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Found 29 results

  1. im adding a battery in the trunk and ran out of 1/0 for the ground but i have plenty of 4 guage can i use a few runs of it to ground the battery?
  2. I've have my soundqubed hdc315 d2 hooked up to 12awg cca wire using wire nuts, which I know isn't preferred but I can't find 8awg butt connectors anywhere, and I don't have a terminal on my box. How do I wire this properly to 1ohm at the amp? Also powering my sub I have a soundqubed sq2200.2 and I'm wondering if while I have my sub out if I should hook up some 8awg ofc wire? Or will there be no difference in supplying the power to the sub? Thank you.
  3. 1/0 CCI ROYALE EXCELENE WELDING CABLE seen a couple people like yu-kong use this kind of wire for his install and i might as well pick some up myself, great deal, $2.48 a foot http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm Any thoughts on this? True wire gauge, etc
  4. Hello all, I am in the process of redoing the factory stereo completely and have decided to go bigger than I thought I would lol!. System is Rockford P1000x5 running 4 6.5's and 1 12" Rockford p3 at 1 ohm. I have 2 more p3's waiting to go in along with a p1000x2. Looking to upgrade alternator to Mechman 270 amp with all needed beefier wiring etc....When hooking up this alternator would you connect the factory power wire to it as well as 1/0? Any issues that I may deal with going this route? Thank you for any and all advice!!
  5. Showing how to run wire through a vehicles cab from the battery to the trunk with no drilling holes in the firewall. Be sure to subscribe.
  6. I need help I am installing a friends system in a 2010 ford fusion and she has a factory head unit (which she refuses to replace) where and how should I run the remote wire. I don't want to tear apart her dash to get to factory head unit. i need help!
  7. An Idea of mine. After being told how wrong I am I'm changing the title to an "IDEA" for a wiring diagram.
  8. Hey guys, Im new to this stuff and dont know much about all of it yet and i have a few questions about wiring my subs to my amp. I have 2 12" RF P3D4s wired @4ohms to my 2-channel SoundStorm SSL EV2000.2 amp. the amp is 2 ohm stable and what im trying to do is get more power but i cant seem to find any diagrams on how to wire my subs to 2ohms. So basically my question is, how do I wire 2 12" 4 ohm Subs to 2 ohms on a 2 channel amp. I would really appreciate the help. Thank you! Conner Adams
  9. Hello everyone. I want to ask how can i connect my dual 2ohm voice coil woofer to amp mcHammer vulcane 2400? Can i use two channels of amp?
  10. Okay So i have a 90 Bronco, I just got a new amplifier "My old one did the same thing" so anyways when ever i turn the Key to (On) position the amplifier fade in slowly how it should. Now when I start my truck, the subs will go "BANG" loudly as the head unit turns on after starting the engine. My Amplifier is a Power Bass 600.2; also yes it's all wired correctly "I'm a freak when it comes to making things look good and connecting it right, not half ass shit" anyways Remote is connected to the (Blue Remote Out) A.K.A Antenna Signal) same thing. But this only happens when I start my Truck. I have grounds every where "Also lets Mind You that all the ground points are Shiny Wire brushed Ground Points" So I know for a fact I have great Grounds EVERYWHERE even for the head unit I ran it's own ground to Bare Unpainted Metal. If this helps I have... Pioneer DEH-150MP Head Unit Power Bass 600.2 Bridged Running Two 12" Kicker Comps. Amplifier power Wire is 4 Gauge & the Remote Wire is a 18 Gauge All the Wiring Kit is a good Quality kit.
  11. conbon

    Remote wiring

    Hey guys, Im not sure if this is possible but ive been wandering if i would be able to do this for awhile. if i have one amp installed in my car already, and i want to put another amp in but not wire the remote start from the new amp to the head unit, but instead, just wire the remote start from the new amp to the amp thats already installed and just wire the two wires together or would this cause an interruption or something?
  12. alright guys i crashed my new zx-6r and have a shit ton of bills to pay now. its all gotta go, and fast. prices are obo. i thought you guys would like to see this I WOULD LIKE TO SELL LOCAL OR CLOSE TO LOCAL. you pay shipping if its not local on the heavy stuff i will mark stuff as sold once it is sold. if you still see it its still for sale. 1. used once dd-1, all amps that are fs have been tuned with this.. $140 shipped obo 2. Hifonics 60.4 SOLD 3. BRAND NEW NEVER USED xp3000. only been out of the box to be put on the charger. has been off for two weeks now and is still resting at 13... after i charge it it floats at 13.1-13.3. never been over charged, used xs charge (sold local so dont ask) 260 plus ship 4. XS D3400. used as a starter batt in my trailblazer for alittle over a year. been charged at least once a week its entire life and still rests at 12.8-13 SOLD pic didnt save, can get one later if needed (see #6 for partial pic of it) 5. Crunch Gp3000d. Hardly been used, and was only used @ 2 ohm and never pushed hard. .5 stable, been proven to do over 3k @1 $340 shipped 6. Pioneer avh-3200dvd - bad ass head unit and i love it to death! works flawlessly. not a single scratch on it. can get pic of it fired up if needed. also comes with wire harness that has been bypassed, warranty, and all booklets/screws. no clue what this is worth so lets start at 280 shipped obo 7. red stinger volt meter SOLD 8. XS power I-Bar SOLD 9. Gold 1/0 terminals (sexy as hell in person) $8 a piece shipped 10. audio pipe fuse holder $8 shipped 11. 300/250 amp fuses $5 shipped since i can hardly walk all of the measurements for the wire are aprox. i counted by the lines on the wire. if a peice was 5' 6" i rounded it to 5' os just keep that in mind. if you absolutely need exact ill get it done! knu 1/0 $2 a foot obo. deal if you buy it all 14' 3' (2) 2' (2)1' rockford rca's 5meters $12 shipped kicker 4 channel rca's 6 meters $20 shipped i have a 12' run of speaker wire. there are 4 strands all taped togeather in the run. so 8 individual wires total. and then just some other 12' runs of speaker wire $ offer? soundquest rca's 5 meters $8 shipped custom jasper-jig hand tooled by yours truly! offer this bitch has alot of hours into it bosh flush bit- 1/2"x1-1/2" now for HIDS!!!!!! ballasts- brand new ddm 55w $18 shipped used ddm 55w $15 shipped used hidextra 25w $15 shipped lights- ill post later, i lost the sheet of paper with all of the exact sizes and temps. i have two used relay harnesses from ddm - $10 each think i got it all, if i forgot anything ill add it. remember shipping for the batts is gunna be huge. prices are obo. i need cash!
  13. Hi guys , I am going to buy an ANL fuse from the battery to my amp I have worked out that my amp draws 1400-0.8=1750 divided by 14.4 =122Amps Does this mean I should buy a 140 amp fuse or have I calculated wrong ? thanks in advance
  14. Hey everybody, i will be installing a rockford fosgate t2500-1bdcp amp and 2 15 inch T2 subs, there will be a 320a alternator and two xs power batteries. i was wondering if anybody had any suggestions of where i could buy good affordable 0 gauge power wire, both positive and negative. also ground wire. Also does anybody have suggestions for speaker wire
  15. hello everyone, just a newbie here with some questions In regards to my wiring and battery. But first a little background and my agenda. my car is an 07 Volkswagen rabbit 4 door 2.5l auto. I purchased this car as a commuter car, as my 01 Jeep Cherokee wasn't good in the fuel mileage area. when I purchased the rabbit used, there was some previous audio work already done. there was a Pioneer double din display installed, along with a power amp for the mids. Now maybe I am the little over kill type, but I don't feel that the 4 awg power/ground wire is adequate enough. especially considering its CCA. Now in my Jeep I ran 1/0 welding cable, that mild system was a mean machine powering a Kicker CVR 2 ohm 10" sub in a sealed box, along with a MTX mid amp powering 4 kicker ks600s. i don't think 1/0 is necessary in my Rabbit let alone my Jeep. I am working on a similar system, though my current mid amp is an audio planet 1200watt 4 channel amp and my sub is a Skar audio rp350.1 with a ix 10v 2. I may upgrade the Skar, but won't know until my sub is broke in. my goal is a loud and clear system. I was thinking of upgrading my wire to 2 awg, doing the big 3, and replacing my battery. so I thought would get you opinions. one thing that comes to mind with my Jeep when I was pushing my system, my lights and volt meter would drop. I never performed the big three with it nor did I get a better battery. my concern is that I will have the same issue and along with my battery not testing so well, I will end up dead in the water someday. some day I will focus on the door speakers, eq, and crossovers. but for now, I want to focus on adequate power. thanks
  16. Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's. My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront... As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries. My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?) Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!
  17. Hello everyone. Over the weekend I did a review of techflex. For those of you who don't know techflex is an expandable sleeving that can be used to protect and group wiring. It comes in a variety of colors and sizes and can really help to clean up an install and make things look nice and clean. But does it protect the wire as well? Have a look at the video for the tests!
  18. Here is my current setup, I am new here so if I miss anything please let me know. The vehicle is a 03 Ford Explorer Sport(not sport trac) Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X896 Front speakers are Focal 165 A1SG components Rear speakers are Focal 1656 CA1SG coaxials 4-Channel Amp is a JL Slash 300/4v2 I used a Stinger 4 AWG wiring kit (SK6241) and their mid level RCA's to connect the amp, making sure to put an inline fuse about 8 inches away from the battery. The system has run great for the past year and a half until yesterday. While driving on the highway with the volume set to 27(75%) the sound cut out randomly. It came back on about 3 seconds later and played for a minute and cut off again, this time taking around 10 seconds before turning back on. Eventually it got to where I would only get a flicker of audio and it would be off most of the time. I checked out the amp and saw the green power LED would come on an off every 3 seconds. When metered, I saw it start at 14v with the green LED on, then drop to 8v in a matter of seconds with the LED turning off under 10v. The voltage would then raise back up to 13.5v or so and repeat. When I checked the fuse under the hood I found this. The melted end had the wire coming in from the battery I also noticed there are circle marks on the sides of the fuse holder if that means anything What I can't figure out is what caused this and why the fuse didn't pop. If anyone here has any ideas fire away
  19. I am sure I've seen it before, but can't quite put my broken eyes on where, however I am looking for a pair of adapters that will allow me to connect 0 gauge wire into 4 gauge terminals on an amp. The terminals on the amp are spaced apart by the remote input which is in between the power and ground. The Power and ground terminals are 4 gauge inputs and I want to be able to turn them into 0 and wire them with said gauge. Can someone please point me in the direction as to where these are located? Thank you very much. -G
  20. I recently upgraded my audio system - added 4 channel amp for door speakers, subamp for subwoofer. Work is complete. Now i have to set the gains on the amp. I'm trying to see if anyone might be willing to let me use their dd-1. Thanks,
  21. Price drop on the 1 AWG. 20.5Ft length for $35 shipped. This is my first time selling on the net! Woot! What I am selling is the left over of the wire I had for my Big3 which is 1 Awg and some spare 4/8awg power wire I had. Here are pics of the 1Awg. One length is 20.5ft. Good condition, sat in my garage for years connected to a welder that didn't work. Got rid of the welder and my father gave me the wire to use for my car this is all the excess wire.
  22. *Not a Vs. thread* Which would be more power efficient being as there is only a couple dollar difference in price? 1/0 OFC: http://audiotechnix....-ofc-power-wire OR 2/0 welding cable: http://www.temcoindu...le/WC0026.html# I was planning on upgrading and just wondering which would be better, and obviously the welding cable is bigger but the 1/0 is oxygen free so i wasnt sure. Thanks guys.
  23. Hello fellow bassheads, I need help finding out what is my problem with my amp and subwoofer system. i have the system hooked up for approximately 1 yr and 1/2 now and it recently gave me some problems. A few days ago i notice that i wasnt thumping anymore so i checked up on it and it was not playing. So i first check the hardware (Hifonic brutus 1100watt & 2 sundown e8v2). All hardware work and then i refer to the troubleshooting process on the manufactures manual and did the remote power test (used a wire to link the 12v power to the remote wire) and it worked. So i figured i had some loose ends on the remote wire side. My remote wire is wired to the cigarette lighter 12v plug. So i proceed to checking the fuse and it was not burnt (changed it to a brand new fuse anyways). Still didnt work, Then i did a straight linked from the cig lighter to the remote terminal. and it still doesnt work. So now im clueless of why it doesnt work!?!? (keep in mind the linking the power terminal to the remote terminal works) If anyone has any ideas of whats the problem let me know.. PLEASE!! Thanks in advance
  24. What i want to do is put another battery in my trunk. I currently have 4awg wiring from my stock battery to my amp. would it be safe to use the 4awg wire to the new battery, then use 0awg wiring to my amp, then use 0awg ground wiring for everything? would this be safer and more efficient also?
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