Chris Hammer

T?nuts and bolts would be a good idea.. Maybe you stripped them a little on accident idk lol

I gave mine 900-1000 daily and probably wasn't clip free. Never got stinky but the dustcap would get hot sometimes....not really hot but definitely warm. 8k on 4 would be alot....I seem to remember some videos showing Sundown running them on 1500 free air before shipping them. Maybe if you get the coil option from them. If you are really serious email sundown and talk to them about it....Your amp setup Electrical..box specs...and see what they say with the coil option. Why not just bump up to the z series? than you can pound the shit outta them at 8k and not worry.

That means you better use your nitrous wisely....but seriously this build probably gives other people goals to work toward such as build quality and attention to detail. It's awesome.

Ill even take a 6.5" sub like a cvt or something. Or a crappy 10....with the flame basket or whatever hahah...someones gotta have some older stuff just lying around or some flea market or low grade stuff...off brand xblose subs or anything LOL

Probably going to sell my SA-12 to do 2-15's or something bigger but I'm looking for some small crappy sub to hold me out untill I buy the 15's. Just so I am not bassless. Anything like kicker comp 8 or something along that lines I dont want to spend hardly anything....I have some mdf and am gonna try a t-line on it. 8ohm or 4ohmdvc is prefered but not a big deal. Anybody who has anything..even home audio sub or 6inch woofers post up if you want to sell....I just need a little something and I think it will be fun to play with a tline. If no one on here has anything I will probably buy a cheap 10$ woofer off parts express.

What about waiting for a Nightshade V3.... The V2 is a beast and V3 im sure wont dissapoint...meant to get loud but be used as a Daily sub at the same time....kinda the same niche as a SMD or sp4

Get a Crecendo BC2000D....does 2250 at 1ohm per their website. You can wire to 1ohm and that should be perfect. Plus their price is great and plenty of members on here can vouch for them....its going to be my next amp when I upgrade. http://store.crescendoaudio.com/bassclef/

I have never seen an amp with a "internal fuse" that is not accessible...usually on the side of the amp. But hey I like to be proven wrong so someone post a pic of one with afuse under the case that the only way to remove it would be voiding manufacture warranty.......yeah I dont think so....the person who posted some crap on "internal" fuse/s that sounds like something your buddy with 180db keeker comps told you.

Just ditch the cap even if you dont do the big3. It shouldnt be a big deal running 2000w on your stock alt as long as you get an extra battery maybe 2. Do you have anywhere for another battery. I have Kinetic...everyone here usually recomends XS power but they're pricey...if you cant afford it look at some other AGM batteries...I remember someone here posting somehting about AGM batteries at walmart. Still better than voltage drop imho.

You need to get better power wire to start off with. some dblink 4gauge CCA wont cut it. 80 amp fuse at 14.4 volts gets you a maximum of 1150-1160 watts before it blows. You are starving your amp.... Go on Knukoncepts website. Get some Ogauge. Kolossus flex if OFC its better but the KCA 0gauge can still supply more than enough for your 2000watts. You need to get 2 fuse holders...2 200amp fuses and ditch the capcitor. You should probably think about getting a second battery as I'm pretty sure you will still have voltage drop with the big3 and stock alt/battery.

Yea but he has A/C and a Radio lol. Instead of getting mad people should sack up and ride a motorcycle. My guess is someone had a shitty day than was getting pissed that bikers were passing them and I just was the unlucky one who got picked.

I have family that rides harleys and some members of their MC carry lead/steel pipes on their floor board they use to break people mirrors windhseild or windows. But its nothing compared to some of the guys I know on sportbikes...some of them carried illegal unmarked guns. I was happy I restrained myself...and understand that riding is dangerous and that alot of drivers dont pay attention...but deliberately trying to hurt/kill me for white lining takes that to another level.

Yea the things I wanted to do woulda landed me in the back of a cop car lol. If my GF woulda been on back i dont think i wouldve been able to stop without hitting his door...needless to say the situation wouldve gotten ugly fast if someone endangered a person I love.

I just merged onto the 110fwy from the 10 in Downtown Los Angeles. I was white lining in between the 1/2 lanes just taking it easy at about 25mph in 1st gear and some douche waited till I was about 5ft from his car and HE OPENED HIS DOOR. He tried to take me out....I stopped inches from his open door, and he preceded to start cussing me out yelling at me and even threw a soda as I was walking my bike backwards to go around. He closed his door so I went to go but he steppe don the gas turned to the left and boxed me in. Theres no shoulder on this freeway so I was stuck. He just kept yelling and threw some more random items out of his car. The traffic started moving finally and the guy in the #1 lane started to move giving me a way out. I struck down with everything I had on his mirror and broke that fucking thing straight off...took off and gave him the finger over my shoulder. My dad lives about 100 miles form me in Sant Monica. I went down for fathers day we wwent up the coast and I spent about 7 hours total on the fwy....needless to say my stress levels were high as hell..so I showed a ton of restraint here...I had coke all over my leathers and visor and still had about 70mi left in my commute home. He is one lucky SOB... I wanted to pull him outta his open door and beat the shit outta him with my track gloves on (carbon fiber knuckles) It wasnt a nice nice car like super expensive but a newer malibu. So he is dumbass and my rants over...but lets just say the next time he does that he might not get someone as nice as me....lets just say I know some people that carry certain "tools" just for this reason

What is dimensions of the trunk opening. You could build a box inside your trunk to the max dimensions but you wont be able to remove it. You have to build it for the trunk opening or the opening through the rear seats whichever is bigger/easier. You could do a 2 piece box.

Sounds like they are blown...and the original owner of those subs had them wired to only one side so it probably fried the VC and caused them to lock up. When we blew my friends comp...on purpose...you could stand on it and the coil didnt budge it was just stuck down. If it has any rub or "feels" like sand than its toast. Thye would be reconed if they were higher quality drivers but cvrs you just go buy two more for 140$ and call it a day.

Make the trade now. LOL and dont look back.

Yea thats alot of wire and bolts just so you dont have to remove subs. You could have two sets of bolts. One set for .5 ohms and have it wired that way....and another set wired to 2ohms. Thand make sure you cap off or cover the bolts not being used....than you could only have 4 bolts but 2 different coil options.

Ive never understood why hifonics has 3-4 amps all near same rating. That being said I know the BRZ line does rated or close. Also I am pretty sure the HFI line has been shown to not do rated power. But I havent really seen anyting on the Zues 1500...I dont thin I have ssen one person on here running it. But for 160$ if it does near rated or even over 1200wrms than its a pretty good deal. You should look into Sundown SD12's or 15's I think they would be perfect for 1200-1500wrms .

Yeah.. It looks awesome. Edit : I'm a dumbass totally just looked at pics and skipped the text. 32hz....its gonna be a beast that should be awesome. I'm anxious to do something similar for 2 -sa 15's

This is for dual 4 ohm subs to 1ohm final impedance. If they are 2ohm wiring like this would make a .5ohm load and instead you should wire to 2ohm. What subs do you have?

What subs do you have 2ohmDVC or 4ohmDVC that decides your wiring options. You put the two bolts in the box. You only need two unless you want to be able to switch coil config on the go but I'm guessing that over your head. Than you wire the subs to the bolts on the inside just like you would to the speaker terminals on the amplifier. You will need crimp on ends that will tighten under the nut on the bolt and make a good connection. Than you run wire from your amp to the corresponding bolt. I wil draw a rough diagram in pain lolz hold on.

Nobodies addressed the fact he is trying to run his amp at .5ohms??? OP wire the subs to 2ohms...lower your power output but at least it might stop going into protect...than you can still bump with the extra battery until you save up enough coin for a HO alt. go to the12volt subwoofer diagram online http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp put in 2 subwoofers with 2ohm DVC...it will hsow you how to wire to .5ohm 2ohm and 8ohm. Wire it to 2ohm for now.

Only if its model equipped with torsion front suspension. But you are probably correct because he says he goes mudding and one would assume he has 4wd then.. Although I mob the hell outta my 2wd Canyon from time to time and with a locker dont get stuck too often. OP the dry park test works pretty good. Their should be lift points where you can jack the back of the truck up by the frame or anothe rpoint that would allow the rear to be lifted but have the suspension free...than you can push pull on the rear and see if the bushings on the shackles are worn etc. My trucks at 100K+ right now and everything 100% fine still...ball joints bushing etc....Chevy tough.

3$ a sq foot dang lol. Hop0e it does alot for that price.