aN-i-No

The fuck...the box looks like he microwaved it.

Not my pics haha, I probably should've made that clear. The deadener is fine, he applied it to the flat surfaces because the curved areas are already resistant to vibrations. You could always shoot for 100% (or near 100%) coverage but it doesn't do you much good. most of those places are a waste of deadener and time. . sealing off the door is where its at, and concentrating behind the driver and around it. Hmmm...I see what you mean now. I wouldn't want to seal a door with deadener (not to say that that's what you meant, you seem pretty smart lol) because you'd have hell if something went wrong inside the door. But hey you gotta start somewhere right? EDIT: Separating the front waves from back waves will net you the greatest improvement in sound. I'm sure you know that but I'm agreeing.

The problem with those is that they're made for bitch speakers...(the holes are really small) and if you try to widen it up you'll crack it. I tried that first lol.... Meh, it's behind the door. the magnet cant be bigger than the speaker. then you would need a bigger hole that you wouldnt be able to screw the speaker No, the basket of the speaker won't fit in the hole and when you try to widen it, it just cracks. I can take a pic if you need.

Not my pics haha, I probably should've made that clear. The deadener is fine, he applied it to the flat surfaces because the curved areas are already resistant to vibrations. You could always shoot for 100% (or near 100%) coverage but it doesn't do you much good.

Yeah...I know, I said I knew what you meant, but you worded it wrong. No need to start an argument. I was mostly responding to the "all amps run cooler at higher ohm loads" comment which is B.S.

The problem with those is that they're made for bitch speakers...(the holes are really small) and if you try to widen it up you'll crack it. I tried that first lol.... Meh, it's behind the door.

Just use 3/4 MDF unless you wanna get fancy. I put pics in the post above to help you out.

are u foreal that what i wanted. what way do i go about it Get some wood. Trace your 6x8 for the mounting holes. Trace your 6.5 over the markings 6x8 for the mounting holes. Cut the hole for the 6.5. The spots you marked for the 6x8 mounting holes you will put a screw through into the door just like a 6x8 speaker. Then you install the 6.5 into the hole that you cut out of the wood. You did that shit, so now finish and paint it so that it doesn't soak up water. Listen to your dope ass 6.5's. EDIT: Like this

Fuckin shit...what happened?

LOL! Bigger box = more efficiency. The downside is that the subs will lose some mechanical power handling (they will reach xmax easier). When you want to run over a woofers rated power, put it in a smaller box. It will handle the power better.

Will that work if it's high passed at the HU? OP try to use the output on the 4 channel like he said but make sure to set the high pass filter from the amp and leave it off on the head unit.

Lol no! 1800/14 = 128.57 amps of current draw no matter what. If anything, the amp would work harder at 2 ohms because the rails would have to produce twice the voltage to get the same power... then explain why every amp ever run cooler at higher impedances. Simple Ohms Law? 130 amps at 2 ohms is the same as 130 amps at 12 ohms? When the impedance doubles the amp has to work twice as hard to make the same power... I think what he and you meant was that if you run an amp at half its rated power it would be more efficient, which is true. A 3000 watt amp making 1200 is going to run cooler than a 1200 watt amp making 1200 because it's less stressed. But when you double impedance it doesn't get any more efficient lol. Tell you what, wire your amp to like 8 ohms and run it as hard as you can. I bet it gets hella hot cuz it has to 8x the workload.

Lol no! 1800/14 = 128.57 amps of current draw no matter what. If anything, the amp would work harder at 2 ohms because the rails would have to produce twice the voltage to get the same power...

Here's my 18" Zcon compared to a 15" Audioque HDC3 IDK if you can tell but the HDC motor IS a little wider with a bit more ferrite but has much less steel and is about 20lb lighter. Both are monster subs though. All goin in this BUT, I gotta get this fixed first When I finish school next week I won't need the car every day so I can break it down and get some much-needed maintenance done.

Hello SMD! Here is me trying to make a big splash with my first post. This my build log...even though I won't be building for a while. Head Unit - Kenwood KDC-X794 (May end up being a Pioneer DEH-80PRS) Mids & Highs Amps - 2x Precision Power Black Ice BK800.4 Mono Amp - Crescendo Audio BC2000D Front Stage - Undecided (Currently Phoenix Gold RSD65cs but will be replaced) Rear Fill - 2x Pioneer TS-A1604C Subwoofer - Sound Solutions Audio ZCON 18D2 Wiring - About $300 worth of Knu CCA and accessories Electrical - Stock alt but will have a couple of batts to support the 2K. ON TO THE PICTURES! Compared to my pretty small hand And my SA-12's compared to the same hand LOL Compared to my iPod Classic You probably already know what this is... But If you didn't! Pics of my rear fill, they're hella nice for what I paid for them. Nice tweets as well Both Sets