Sinewave
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About Sinewave
- Birthday 07/21/1977
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Electronics, Cars, Music, Food, Beer......I'm married that's all I have time for.
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the top should be held in with a melted post that rivits in to the panel. You can drill these (only the melted part) out and epoxy it back together or glue a bolt backwards or threads into the post. Your going to have to get creative. Also is that door covered in factory brown vinyl now? your going to have to remove that is you want your resin/filler to stick.
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i about fell on my face...is this right???
Sinewave replied to ddlvr630's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
The Green wire (that changes to red) mounts from the solenoid and goes directly to the output post of the alternator...this is how the DC charge from the alternator get back to the battery. You could go from the output post of the alternator to the battery directly without contacting the starter. -
i about fell on my face...is this right???
Sinewave replied to ddlvr630's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Well last night after the gym I was feeling frogy so I upgraded my power wires to my 2004 Cavalier and took some photos, and thought I would share. First the main factory power wire splits from the battery to the accessory fuse box and to the stater solenoid. From the same post of the starter solenoid a small wire (AND I MEAN SMALL WIRE) runs to the output post on the alternator. It's a bit tight but a 13mm socket and wobble will get the job done. I am only going to outline the steps I took to upgrade the output from the alternator to the battery. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! Pull the air box for room No access from the top....going to have to get under the car. This is the solenoid located almost dead center under the car. The red wire is the factory power wire from the battery and the SMALL green wire is going to the output post of the alternator. Both of these wires are on the same threaded post of the solenoid...13mm socket to remove. Note: The green wire changes over to red after the fuse link. Red wire is the alternator output. Wires removed. Factory alternator output wire vs. 4 gauge. Factor wire from battery to solenoid vs. 4 gauge vs. 0 gauge...Not terrible I have seen worse. Making cables. Cables made...I wish I would of had some shrink tube laying around..Gives me a reason to go buy some. Note: Keep the alternator post cover and reuse it on your new wires. Replaced both cables to the solenoid. One runs back to the alternator and the other up to the battery. Finished. Now before anyone says it I know I need to add a fuse to the line from solenoid to battery as close to the battery as possible...but this car is not going anywhere for the moment and I will add it tonight. What can I say it was late and I wanted to get this up on the site. I hope this helps. -
i about fell on my face...is this right???
Sinewave replied to ddlvr630's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
I just bought a 2004 Cavalier for a daily driver last week. I started upgrading the charging system wiring this weekend (even without any stereo in it). I did the grounds to the body and block. I also upgraded the accesory fusebox, but I have not run to the Alt as I was low on time and as you said it is a bit burried. Im going to tackle this Wed night if you can wait. I'll hit you up with the info and pictures. -
I like the trick of adding pigment to your resin...It would help gauge saturation, and air pockets. Im adding that to the tool belt. How are you going to route the RCA outputs from your 3Sixty to your amps?...the panels that cover your trunk lid hinges look to have tight tolerences. Are you going to run them inside of the hinges??