UMDSmith

SKAR AUDIO FTW 1000.1 CLAIMED

SKAR AUDIO FTW 1000.1 CLAIMED

SKAR AUDIO FTW 1000.1 CLAIMED

I hate my work PC, because when I'm on it, I'm usually doing work.

If you don't like chromes ads, get a plugin called ghostery. People arguing over browsers is just pointless, everyone has a favorite. As of right now, of the big 3, chrome has the best html5 compliance. I goof of with obscure browsers sometimes, Maxthon is my current flavor, because it is fast as hell.

Keep in mind that you are running windows inside a vm shell, inside windows. No matter how you shake it, there will be some slowness. If you were running on an ESXi OS and had 2 VM's (win7 and win8), you would probably see way better response. I have only ever tried running windows -> vmware -> windows once, and I was very unhappy with the performance as well.

On windows 2008, 30GB is fine. You just have to be aware of patch management.

Ok, if you are running more than one VM at once, and you have a VM with 2 cores, and a vm with 4 cores, the 4 core will actually be slower. In fact, since your CPU is ONLY 4 cores, drop the VM to 2 cores. Basically, a 4 core VCPU will only get cpu time under conditions where all cores are free and not processing other commands, otherwise they get into the processor queue. If you set it to 2 cores, you only need 2/4 cores to be free to process commands in the vcpu. As you are running the vmcore as a shell in windows, you are basically crippling your VM by making it wait for 4 cores to be free. Just for the record, I have taken the VCP training for ESXi 4. I'd have the cert but the workplace decided not to pay for that, probably because it makes us more marketable elsewhere.

I worked for safelite as a mobile pro for about 2 years. Just for reference, mobile pro's are in areas where there is no factory support to come help you if you mess up, so you get it right the first time. The urethane, depending on temp and bead size, will cure in 24 - 48 hours fully at 70 degrees. If it is exceptionally cold out, you had VERY low working time, and it would cure a bit faster. If it is hot (like the 100+ heatwave the east just had) give it a full week. Certain vehicles like modern japanese cars have a MUCH smaller bead, so they cure faster. Old chevy vans, like the savannah, and certain large SUV's that most of the SPL guys have tend to have a thicker bead, so they would need more time. We did not use stops, nor tape to hold the windshield in place (the tape was for the molding to cure into the urethane). Once the windshield is in the urethane, and you press it down, it VERY rarely slides. Only on the GMC/Chevy vans with those giant windshields did some of the techs need a stop on the passenger side to help solo set the windshield. One thing you guys should be aware of, is that OEM glass tends to be better than SGC (safelite corp) glass. SGC glass sometimes has variable thickness, and doesn't always fit as well, or has waves. If you can afford it, or have the insurance for it, always get OEM glass.

They had originally said something about early July, but I guess it is taking them longer than originally anticipated.

Look all around the pedal area, see if anything came loose or off. What kind of car is it?

It is a company that a ton of the mustang guys use. Here is the output chart of their amps at given RPMS. http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/openExtra.asp?extra=11 Our cars, especially heavily modified ones, don't idle as nice as a lot of these newer things. Mine bounces between 800-900 at idle, so at the time, it was one of the best I knew about for a nice price. HHR Ed, thank you for the information. Would you recommend tying those batteries together for the entire car, or installing a battery isolator for the rear mounted one? Just trying to determine everything I need for budget purposes before a purchase.

I have a 1989 mustang 5.0 that is getting a hifonics zrx2000.4 and a hifonics brutus 1700.1D. The 4 channel will be wired into 4 ohm so max it will only pull 1000 watts (probably far less), and the 1700 into 1 ohm. I have already upgraded the alternator to a PA performance 200 amp unit, and just completed the big 3 using 1/0 Knuconceptz CCA cable. The car has only a small amount of additional electrical draw, although I do plan on adding an electric fan in the future. I don't drive it often, and when I do, only 1-2 hours max in a sitting. What battery would you recommend under the hood, and do I need to run an additional battery for this draw in the rear (eventually the front battery will also be moved to the read for better weight balance).

Ahhh, now I have an idea where you may be going.

5?? I had no idea. I saw JFI audio fail in their location on 13, and there is the one near the hospital. I wasn't aware of any other ones. Oh well, once you finish the move, I will swing in and say hello and see what you have.

Well, the good news is it will become tax free shopping.

Yeah I went by just to say hello. I'm not a huge facebook guy, but I guess I will have to see where they are moving.

I'm a local guy who works about...1/4 mile from your shop. I've been a long time fan of SMD and lurker on the forums, and I just now saw that there is a decent shop on the Eastern Shore of MD. I don't have anything big, just a small system in my Tacoma, but am planning for about 4k watts in my 89 mustang. Really just curious to check out the place and say hi. -Joe