AP Zoutes

you can set your balde depth on I think every circular saw out there. So instead of setting it @ an 1" (which is what you should use for 3/4" cut for saftey ) you would set it @ 5/8" according to steven and that' how deep your cut will be

very, nice Steve. How deep are the cuts on the port bends.

It's all personal preference. I'd personally pick the CDT's over the MB Quarts any day and twice on Sunday. I bought the older ones just to test because there is no where to demo them and after having them I will only be using CDT's and recommending to everyone I know. These aren't even their middle line speakers.

I would suggest these to you....I have the older version with the TW-25 tweeter and they sound real good and can take quite a bit of power. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4596

Well, I will at lest deaden the hell out of the cargo door and take of the lights and trim and deaden those as well. I can't stand rattles. Also since it will be a couple of months before I get to the new subs I'm going to build a new box for these tens. See what happens. Doing the math now and it's fucked. 2.5 ft3 net with 50 sq" port and about 55" long = 30 hz. Will be fun. Maybe I can build it next weekend.

2x FI 15" BTL loaded

yeah, its a work in progress....got my front stage, cd player, and 1/2 the sound deadening done. Still need new rear door speakers and a more powerful amp for my fronts (I'm going to switch the amp for my fronts now to my rears) Audiocontol matrix, then alt, Kinetik hc2400 for main, second battery, then the subs then the MUTHA of all amps T400001. See how long all that takes me. Then the alpine DVA 9965 cd player then upgrade my font stage to the CDT gold line and add a monitor to my center console and a couple of headrest monitors and I promised my boy a PS2 in the car. Then maybe add a second T40001 Think that's enough? ICE is never done

I wanted to wait until I could get some 15's , but no longer could. Needed something so I threw in my old enclosure out of my Jetta. I knew it would be quieter but it's better then nothing. And I did lose 4-5 db's and I can't believe all the trim rattles I need to get rid of, but now I know and can do it before I get BIG bass. Here are some pics, amazing how small this looks compare to how it looked in the Jetta. Can't wait to upgrade but now that I have at least some bass I can hold off just long enough to do exaclty what I want; 2x 15" Fi btls and a Rockford T40001. Also, gives me time to do power upgrades.

Backwards is the easiest way to get them to sound good. Firing forward requires sealing off the trunck, baffle forward, which is time consuming. Faicn the subs backwards keeps fom cancellation problems as well as sealing off the trunk. IMO sealing the trunk off and firing forward is best, but firng backward is easy. Here is a right up that compares firing back compared to forwrd without sealing the trunk http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html and read onto part two.

awesome transaction, quick and painless. Very fast shipping and high quality shirt. I'll be ordering more. Thankyou Steve.

x3 great work

WOW I would love to hear that in person

ugly, but cool

cool, although it's distorted from the camera mic it sounds like it's pretty quick at covering all the freq changes. very nice. looking forward to getting my 15's

If your not adding anymore amps I would try to clean them up by flush mounting, mostly to hide the cables. Other then that not to bad

I have one question does anyone know how hard it is or isn't to move the heater unit out of the way on the passenger side cargo area wall in a 2000 Tahoe? I also plan on covering the big holes in the front doors with tin metal and sound deadener and add acoustic closed cell foam, Next Weekend

After six hours and 50 sq. ft this is what I accomplished today Passenger fornt door Passenger Rear door Driver's side rear door Driver's sdie front door Driver's side cargo area Cargo Floor Then I ran out. Still need to do two layers on floor and one layer on roof and also passnger side cargo area.

That's why you need to call them on it. Alot of bastards out there. Gotta call bullshit when you see it. I just poted a question see if he fesses up.

what is the rms @ 4, 2, and 1 ohm. Found the rest of the specs cant' find anything else. Also, as far as shipping is concerned, where are thses being shipped from and what is the estimated cost of shipping to Wa state?

after looking at his page further you may be right about trying to fool people. Post a comment

do you know who's video that is? and do you own the subs in your avatar or just trying to fool us into thinking they are yours

what's the expected rms? Is that $250 ea. or for pair. When you had the work done did you get new t/s parameters? Will these work in 6.5ft3 net tuned to 32hz? Can I trust you??

The terminals were sold in set so I just connected both. This weekend I will probable use it to do big three if I have enough brown 0/1. I'll start doing multiple runs when I add batteries.

I know it's just a basic install for a front stage amp, but it's still my new baby. BTW, I only used old stuff from previous installs. Hell, the two red 4ga. cables are over 6 yrs old. My point is no matter what your using show some pride and at least keep it clean. I've seen alot of amp installs with a ratnest of cables and wire all over the place and I've hald my tongue, but come on guys there are alot of examples in here to learn from. Do something with it. You don't have to be a greatest fiberglasser or box builder just take your time and whatever you decide to do, do as well as you can....Okay I'm off my soapbox. So what do you think Tomorrow I get to start soundeadening my doors. Then I need to build some pods for the tweeters in my A-pillars. and then and then and then and then the madness never stops!!!

make sure the gas tank isn't under the seats. It usually is....