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9Nails

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9Nails last won the day on February 12

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About 9Nails

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  1. My friend has an old Pioneer TS-W3002D4 with a possible blown coil. I haven't looked at it yet to confirm. What I'm wondering is if recone kits exist for this speaker. My Google-fu search skills turned up nothing. What I'm fearing is that they're may be nothing he can do with the motor. So my questions are: is the an aftermarket kit that might fit this, do the cost of the kits not justify the repair, or is he just SOL?
  2. What's your max amperage for the alternator(s), your wire lengths, and what is the max amperage draw for your amplifiers? Safe to assume that you're charging voltage is between 13.8 - 14.2 V? If your ground is just a few feet away you could get by easily with one 0 gauge, each battery. To be safe, if you have two 0 gauge coming in to the bank, then two 0 gauge going out is typically suggested.
  3. You're not joking. At least on paper it's better now that I downgraded to an X from the Z that I had previously. The birth sheet on the RF 1200.1 shows it having 1460 watts. I don't mind underpowering the Sundown though because I'm more than overpowering the full range Focal speakers. I've gotten the Focals hot and stinky a few times trying to eek out a little more from them. My head unit clips at 25 of 30. So I have my gains set at 24 where I know it's clean. I have to hand it to the Focals though, they're taking way more power than rated. In the future a better head unit and second pair of mids would be nice. These Sundown Audio subs are a wild beast for sure. That X sounds beautiful, and just that one beats the bejesus out of my car even with the lack of power. It's got the windshield flexing and my friend smiling from ear to ear. The heat shield underneath the car could used some tightening now. I have a second battery and alternator upgrade sitting in the garage if I ever decide to see what that Sundown can really do. But at the moment it's incredible, I love it, and more power is just extra icing on the already delicious cake.
  4. Those box joints are the real deal! User Triticum Agricolam from this form cut those box joints! He proposed those over kerfing the port, and I loved it! That's one part of the box build that I could not do after that box was stolen. And something that I majorly miss in this rebuild.
  5. I'm running to 600k file limits I think? So here's a final picture of the build. Yes, on the final install day, it rained on me! I had to scoot my car's butt into the rain so that I could see the wires. Sun was still shining brighter than my garage lights.
  6. I call these "Vampire" connectors. They crimp onto the existing factory stereo wiring and allow a somewhat less permanent way to get audio from the head unit in case I want to change anything in the future. (That's still an option here.) BUT!!!!!! The closer connector is missing a slit that the slide-in terminal connector required. It took weeks to chase down this problem and I almost sent in my amp for an unnecessary repair.
  7. Checking some spacers that I made for the Focal speakers. All 4 door speakers will get the same sound. Adapter rings looked good. Nice tight fit that I was happy of. Spacer rings and the adapter attached to the doors. There wasn't much room for the crossovers, but I managed. The tweeters would get a little connector installed on them so that I can remove them if needed. I used these connectors in RC cars and had them laying around.
  8. The door panels needed an adapter to accept the Focal speaker components. I never got a photo of the speakers in the door! I guess I got to impatient to have a listen. I also picked up some motorcycles around that time so, distracted might also fit the reason I didn't get the final door photos. Stock Ford speaker has an adapter ring built in that doesn't exactly match a round shape. i'd need to copy this to plastic. Stock speakers handle a massive 25 watts. Although I'm pretty sure my cellphone speaker gets louder than these jokers.
  9. I needed a subwoofer cabinet, but I have only worked in MDF boxes that best match a rectangle. I wanted something a little nicer than MDF, and that fit the angle of the rear seat. I asked for some assistance, and Triticum Agricolam was nice enough to build the box for me. A design was chosen and built... ...then later on stolen.
  10. Selecting components was my first step. Research what I might like, pull the trigger and buy some speakers. And then put them in the hatch to see how I might install these. Sundown Z-12v4 D2 would be the speaker I desire. Rockford Fosgate D1200.1 and D800.4 were the amps desired. Focal P165 components will fill the sound-stage nicely.
  11. It's been a long time coming to the point where I feel like I have something to share. I probably should have put this build up sooner, but I wasn't happy with my work. I picked up a new Ford Focus in January 2015. It was meant to be a cheap car to own and operate, good gas mileage, etc. The poor car has been taken into the snow, sand, mud, and everywhere n. For a year it was driven and abused. It's always been a good car, but in that time music was lacking. I took my tax return to fix a problem with the music. The stock sound volume output was so low that I could hear myself sing. I sing like shit, so this was a big deal! What does a good car get after a year of punishing driving? How about getting beaten up from the inside with a nice subwoofer?
  12. That Soundstream has a bass remote knob. You could leave it at 0 if the Sundown over powers your Polks. But if you build a nice box, it'll be hard to resist cranking it up.
  13. Speakers on the b-pillar are awfully close your your melon and pull the sound pretty hard to one side of the vehicle. It's one of the reasons that I'd not put a tweeter in this location. Though not the best location musically for a speaker, they're still other reasons why you might want to locate a speaker in this area. (Lack of space, or just want some fill from the rear.) The selected midrange speaker covers most of the human vocal range, so they're a good match if you're just trying to get a little more oomph from the mid to hear speech, etc. But your truck's speaker is likely a 4 x 6. So you'll need to go through an adapter to fit them in. I could, and am likely wrong, but I don't think you can't get to 2 ohms by driving a component set (mid + tweeter). To get to 2 ohm you'll need two matching speakers. (Two subs, two mids, two full-range, etc...) The reason I don't think it'll work is because you're driving different bandwidths to a 4 ohm speaker. So the amp doesn't see that is an overlapping load. Also, it might be a good idea to confirm that your amp can handle 2 ohms, and that the distortion and clipping wont go up when you wire for 2 ohms. The need for component vs. coaxial is going to be up to your taste and how you want to listen. If it were my truck, I'd start with the component midrange and adjust fading so that it's not overpowering the positioning of the music center stage.
  14. I just had my Sundown Z 12 in a custom enclosure stolen. It seemed like it was a target of easy opportunity. The sub was sitting over the spare tire, and the enclosure was beautiful, so I never bolted it down. This really sucks. I'm wondering what I could do to lock the enclosure to the car, prevent another loss. Something that would allow me to still remove the sub if I ever needed access to the spare.
  15. Those are most likely your RMS figures at 14.4V. What you can reliable count on, with a good working alternator and electrical connections. Dynamic burst will be higher.
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