ISO

Well I like what you have going on but I'm going to be net less in about 13 to 14 days or I would take the Gold in a heart beat. If I end up being off the board for an extended amount of time would you care to keep my account alive. I'm kinda proud to have some Pinned sections. To the rest I'm heading back to central Ohio Ohio State football FTW Ya Buckeyes Is it me or does this smiley look like he has done just a little too much coke? Thats how it starts. Then this happens :rofl: :rofl:

OK thats what I needed to know. Lets hope you and I can work out a way to get me into a SAZ-3500. Hell you have done me a ton of favors over the last couple of years and I'm thankful for it. Because of your help almost all the amps I run or are going to run (if I get around to my install that is) are current models and up to date products. No matter what happens with the Email you are a great guy and no I'm not trying to kiss ass

Email is sent and the title of the Email is; ISO from SMD interested in getting one SAZ-3500 or two SAZ-2500's Thanks for your time. Jon Stalter Edit: I just saw that the 2500's won't be here until the end of July so I would rather concentrate on the 3500 witch is the amp I secretly obsess over any how.

Jake I'm getting ready to send you an Email to see if we can work something out so I can get a SAZ-3500. It will be under [email protected] or it will say JP Stalter.

Jake did you make any revisions at all to the SAZ-3500? No mater how big or small.

PM sent

LOL yes but I'm broke. What are you looking to buy with the money? (trades)

Yes RF Power amps hold their value very well so $400 to $500 is respectable. My BD1500's still average $300 to $350 and sell like hot cakes on Ebay and I have been watching them for 5 years now and I'm talking about the 1500's that were out between 2001,2002,and 2003.

its called unloading and when your sub plays below the tunning frequency it acts like it doesn't even have a box.

To Meade,David,Roscoe,King suv,Ray, and Chode to just name a few of the people that can make the changes needed. The thread that is pinned in the amplifier section were I explain a lot of stuff about how much actual power an amplifier makes was originally a thread about calculating box rise impedance and real world output and I think it needs to have its name changed to something that suites the thread better. A title that has more explanation to it, but I can't think of a name to change it too so the average person would want to go check it out more often. On a side note since technically it has turned into my thread, is there anyway I can take full control over it like the OP of a thread is capable of doing? (EX: just to be able to make little adjustments here and there?) How to calculate impedance rise, real world wattage and information on the 2 most basic forms of dash mounted bass knob controls. The link: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/23462-check-actual-ouput-of-an-amplifier/

Hey thanks for checking this out for us Meade. Thank you

Ya they take you to the Kinetik page but those are links that are supposed to take you directly to the eighty amp Power Supplies.

Guys will you fix the problem with the number eighty? 8, 80, 800 I didn't mind it untill I found out today that I can not any links or pictures from photobuket if they contain the number eighty. It wasn't a big deal until I found that out. No links and no pictures. Heres the link to Kinetik's eighty amp PS: http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/product.asp?C=2&P=KIPS12-80 http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/product.asp?C=2&P=KIPS12-eighty ( If you copy and paste the link with the numbers 8 0 then it gets you there..) Hope you can fix this and thanks.

I have never used these type of reducers but I have looked at them quite a bit over the years. The problem I have with them exspecially in a heavy vibration situation is that there is no way to make the terminal screw to lock into them. You can screw it down tight but the bass should wiggle it loose in a short period of time. Now if you drill a hole half way through it that is just a hair smaller in diameter then the set screws then it might work real good but that is one connection you do not want to loosen up. If it loosens up and wiggles in the terminal then it will start haveing little sparks when it wiggles and that can just be bad as far as everything goes. This is my opinion on the subject.

No problem man. I like helping others.

Hey when you talk to them ask the man to look at your distribution threat and ask him what he thinks about doing it my way because ditro blocks can really make an install look very nice. If they weren't so underated what your using then my way should have been perfect and look nice.

Please lets not make this a geussing. That just not a good idea or very respetable.

DO NOT PUT POWER ON IT. Period. Box it back up since you have your pics and deal with the company. Please listen to me.

Man if it arrived like that then they most likely will take care of you. If they are a good company. Good Luck

If you about a replacement starter battery then use the one I mentioned above. The last system I used them with consisted of The Big 3 with 85/140 amp alt with the MLA module and an RF BD1500 and I only had a voltage drop of 2 volts at the most. Then for your 2nd battery I recommend either the SPP1500D; http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=135&CategoryID=4 or the SPP2150; http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=133&CategoryID=4 You might be able to find these exact same batteries from a company named Odessy or spelled close to that as they make the batteries Stinger uses and this way you can get these same batteries without the Stinger name on them and that might save you money. Now Power Master is no joke also so you might want to check them out too.

Hey man I have also found a very good piece of info that you can read but I don't know if I can find the link. If I can I'll put the link here and if I can't I'll PM you for your Email address so I can send you a copy. Besides the question above I should beable to help you with any other questions you might have and should be able to help you pick components out for your X-overs. I will just need part numbers of your drivers and usually we build passive X-overs useing the nominal impedance of each component.

Hey Meade was my Dairy Queen joke just not goofy enough to be funny? Steve I need to talk to you about something is there anyway for me to be able to hit you up?

I love Stinger batteries and I recommend the Power2 series. They are the red ones. My favorite is the Stinger Power2 SP1000 and it looks like they changed the model number to Stinger POWER 2 SPP1200. What is really nice with this one is that it will fit in most Honda's as a replacement for the starter battery. I have been running the SP1000's for 8 years and have always been impressed. It is just recently that I have moved over to Power master and so far so good but Stinger batteries are no joke man. http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=136&CategoryID=4