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Found 3 results

  1. my stereo system is a bigger current draw than my alternator can supply, does any one know which make and model of alternator I need for 160 Amps In my 1996 nissan pulsar Lx N15? Because of my system drawing (at fuse rating max. current) 1800 Watts RMS ( 4 channel OAC160 600w RMS & mono BRX1200.1D 1200w RMS Optima yellow top D51R - 12v 38ah + regular lead acid batt. & boss(ashamed) 8 Farad capacitor) all powering 2 KICKER 6 1/2" coaxial 100w RMS + 2 6x9" VIBE AUDIO 120w RMS amd TWIN INFINITY KAPPA 10.9W 350w RMS 1400w peak *EACH* - Then @ 1 ohm between them and running at 1200w RMS from a Hifonics Amp
  2. So my Battery is in the back of my Cobalt, and the power wire runs maybe 6 feet (more like 3 if I end up moving the amp to the rear of the box). I have a Hifonics Brutus 1700.1d (running at 1ohm-1700w) and 2 SA-12's. Will the current 4AWG Rockford Fosgate wiring I have be enough? Also, what do you guys recommend for fuse size? (The site recommends 160a, would 150a be ok?) Please no flat "Just go 0 AWG bro" I believe the amplifier only has input for 2ga. If I need to upgrade, what would I fuse the 2ga for and WHAT brand of 2gauge? (since I was having a hard time finding decent 2AWG on Amazon). Thanks for the help links are always helpful
  3. hey guys im having a weird problem that I personally have never seen before. With my car running at idle, I used to have my 4 channel and my sub amp (just on, no load) with maybe .1 or .2 voltage drop. All of a sudden the other day my sub amp would draw me down to the low 10's with no music playing. After noticing my warranty is over on the amp I opened it up and saw that the caps may have some swelling on top. Any ideas? I'm mostly likely gonna buy a new amp but id like to fix this as a backup.
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