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Found 294 results

  1. I have had my cab 1600.1 for a while and worked flawless. Let it sit for a while and turned it on and it and it was sending a full wide open signal to my subs at a 50-60 htz test tone. I unhooked the rca's and no change. I took the back plate off and nothing looks bad/burnt. I have good electrical (power and ground). It just came out of nowhere. Any ideas??
  2. Twistedmister

    Hcca 3k losing power at high volume.

    So I'm listening to music and dialing in the max I can give my subs. I just installed an hcca 3k woth 3 skar evls, and everything is fine. Then from one song to the next I have very little bass. If I turn it down the bass cones back. If I turn it up bass goes minimal. Not completely gone. Sounds like I have less than 1 sub. Been running the system for a few days with no issues. I have: 250amp alt Regular front battery. Not sure what A power xs 925 for the back 3 runs of 1/0 gauge from second battery to amp all fused. And 3 runs of 1/0 ground to amp. 2 from battery 1 from fat seat belt all ground down and shiny. Any ideas? Could it be a loose... something that's interrupting power draw? Tia fir any help.
  3. CrewCabBassHead

    2 sundown 10s in a crew cab?

    I need help. I bought 2 Sundown 10s E series V3, and a Rockville 6000W / 1500W RMS amp. I'd like to put both subs in my truck behind the rear seat. Ported if possible. If only one sub is needed I'll sell the other one. I'd like low bass. Behind my seat there's 60" across the back. 8" deep at the bottom. I'd like to go 20" tall. (Wedge box) who can help me with port size/type. The sub requires 1.2 cubes tuned at 32-34hz ported. I'll build it if you post it. Thanks for the help.
  4. Hey guys, I have a few quick questions, and I think this is the correct place to ask them. First off, here is a quick link to my setup - (four TREO SSX15.22 subs with four Memphis 1000D amps [one per sub]). Now, for the main questions. I have my wall of 15's running 4 1k watt amps. I'm considering upgrading amps and looking at maybe two 4000 watt amps, or even two 4500's, but I'm completely unaware of what amplifier brands are leading right now. These Memphis' are almost 10 years old, yet they still work wonderfully. I just want to put more power down, have a little more fun. Could anyone point me in the direction of some better name brands? I'm not exactly positive on how much I'm open to spending, but if I can keep it under $1,200 that would be a good start (my mother is already irritated I have $600 in the truck, haha). Follow up question! My amps (seen in the pictures at the base (lol) of the wall) are surrounded by a custom piece that fits the interior look of the truck. When my dad had the setup installed, he didn't have fans implanted because he only really cranked it up here and there, so they would never get super warm. However, I live in an area with a lot of other teenagers, so I turn it up fairly frequently and they definitely get warm, though I try not to get them searing, after all, I do need them to last. My question is, if I upgrade to, let's say two 4k dual channel amps, would they heat up faster? The reason I ask is I was thinking, if an amp is powering one sub, it only has so much pull. But once it starts powering two, you have double the pull and I would assume they would get hot quickly. Maybe it would be smarter to get four 2k amps? If this makes no sense, just keep in mind it's 1am. I'll elaborate as needed. Thanks for any and all help guys!
  5. Here we go with another build. This one won't be as slow as the Chevy TB and I'm excited for that. This vehicle is my work car so I work on it profusely week after week. I am hoping to get this one done by end month so until then here are my plans. If what you see sounds familiar it probably is, but I won't tell... Thanks everyone prematurely for the comments and hope to have some good reviews from this build. Rockford Fosgate T2500bdcp Rockford Fosgate T-400/4 Audio Control Matrix Crescendo Symphony 5.25" Components Rockford Fosgate T1D410's Xs Power Kinetik Mechman OFC 1/0 Singer Alt Pioneer avic 4200NEX HU
  6. My system plays great when the cutting out doesn't happen. I have A Kenwood Excelon X501 Headunit (5v SW pre-out) 2 P3 D4 12s with a Rockford Fosgate Prime R-1200D ran at one ohm. However, this problem occured at both one and 4 ohm. My problem only happens once in a blue moon its very quick and it never happens on hard bass. It usually happens right after a long hard hitting note, then it will cut out on that weird frequency only then go right back to banging, No matter what song or source I use if the song plays that frequency it will cut out. IT happens with Choices (Yup) by E-40 that is one of the many songs with the weird note in it. Problem doesn't occur at lower volume only at 22-28 which is what I usually listen to it at since that gives out the most clean bass. Any tips or ideas would be appreciated. I am an installer at a local shop and have been for a year now this has only been a problem wince I switched to the rockford system. I tied another rockford amp did the same thing with the parameters set the same. People at my shop are leading towards voltage regulator but the amp is the only thing having the issue. I checked all my wiring multiple times seems as good as it can get. I did make my own box and it was only the second one I made, and the first one all by myself. My last thought for what it could be Is I built my box poorly and its causing me to need to overpower the subs in order for them to sound like they should in a PROPER box. But if that is the case and I am causing it to clip why would it only cut out on that one frequency? When it cuts out it jumps down to 12 volts for a split second with hard bass. When it cuts out it jumps up to 15 volts for a split second then goes back to normal. I multi-metered at the amp both the power lead and remote lead both spike at 15 volts when cutting out. When it cuts out all that happens is the Blue Power Led turns RED. I have pictures of my build in my garage.
  7. Hey guys! So recently I got myself a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3 D4 subs, and started to play with them a little. However I can't quite see the numbers I was hoping for. I got to thinking what can cause this little anomaly. I am thinking maybe it is my battery, because everything else semms to be okay. My setup consists of 2 RF P3D4 subs, a Hifonics Brurus BRX2016.1D, and an XS power D975. I choose theese things because it seems to fit together just fine to cover the 1000-1500 watt range, but apperently I was wrong somewhere. All of this is currently out of a car, so maybe it is the problem. However, I have seen many videos where people get their equipment out form a car for a period of time, and they can reproduce almost the same power, and that is the reason I am worried a bit by now. It also can be a tuning problem, because I only owe a multimeter ( whitch is a True RMS meter by the way) and a clamp, but I doubt is is the real reason. Thank you for your answers in advance! I hope you can help me out!
  8. Hello Everyone, It's been awhile since I've been on the forum, but I'm in the midst of my new audio build and I've run into some issues. I'd really like help to problem solve these issues. I'm running an active 2 way front stage and a 12" sub in the rear. First things first, here is a short run down of the parts related to my issues: H/U= Pioneer 80prs. network mode. internal amp off. running directly to my 4 channel amp and sub signal to my monoblock. 4-chan amp: Jensen Power 400.4 rated at 75w rms @ 4 ohms per channel monoblock: Hifonics brutus brx1600.1 First issue. I was beginning to set the gains on my amps, but when setting them I can only seem to turn the gains about 5 to 10 degrees above minimal gain before distortion on both amps. I'm using a DSO oscilloscope to see distortion in the signal. On the 4 channel amp, I measured 4.9v from the deck and nearly 17v out of the amp. Does that sound right? The math seems to check out. 17v on a 4 ohm load gives 4.25 amps equalling 72ish watts. Is it normal to only turn the gain knob a few degrees? Issue two. Stick with me for this one. Since the 80prs' high frequency outputs lowest setting is about 1.25kHz, I used the midrange rca's to set the gains for the tweeters and mids. I used a 100hz and 1k Hz test tones at 0db , -2.5db, and -5db. During this test is when I noticed an issue. I had the drivers side speaker wires unplugged from the amp and all rca's unplugged except the driver side mid rca. I had that plugged into channel 4 which is set up to be the driver mid. (note: channels 3/4 share a gain and 1/2 have a gain, so 3/4 are mids and 1/2 are tweets.) When I played a 1k Hz tone into channel 4 (driver side mid) I heard an audible, but low volume tone out of the passenger mid. I played pink noise to test and I heard an even more noticeable static sound out of the passenger mid. Now I might be wrong, but if the rca for that channel is unplugged, shouldn't that speaker be completely silent? Just another thing, I left all the gains where the scope showed clean signal, where I left it was set using a 100Hz -2.5db tone at max headunit volume, and playing music at max volume the sound is what I would call regular driving volume. It is not loud. You can definitely talk to the passenger with the volume at max. There should be more volume. In the previous build, I had the same amps and a pioneer avh double din and the gains were set by ear. That system got so much louder it's laughable. The last build the gains were set at around 75% with no audible distortion. Now they are at around 10%. So I'm curious, bad amp? bad scope? Help, Please.
  9. Alright, i am sure you guys have heard this many times before. I have 4 18" FI BTL N2 subwoofers (V1) and I want to install them in my living room. Being dual 2 subs... I could wire one to one amp at 4ohm in series. So, guess ill need 4 amps. Any suggestions? i have been looking and found a few dayton audio amps.. I havent found anything that does around 1500 watts rms at 4 ohm. I am assuming this isnt common in home audio? Or will i need to hook up my welder to my 750.1? Lol.
  10. Hey guys new member here hoping for some advice. I've always had systems in my cars but nothing crazy (amps that say 2k watts and put out 300). This time I want to go BIG. I intend to be running 2 fi btl's 18's powered by a Taramps HD8k. Instead of just buying a component set for the front and coaxils in the rear I thought Id try something different this time. I wanted to try 4 Skar audio 6.5" mids in the doors and 4" tweeters (two in dash and two in rear). Thats 2,240 watts RMS. Best amps I have found so far to power these are either the tara or stetsom 2k 4 channels (would be running two of these). I've read that these amps (brazilian amps in general) are prone to distortion and not the best choice for mids and highs. The non brazalian amps don't seem to be putting out enough power. So what do you guys recommend? Should i just go with a Taramps? Is there a non brazalian amp that doesn't cost a shit ton of money and give me the power I need? I appreciate all and any advice and sorry if I sound ignorant but want to do it right this time. Thanks!
  11. Question..their is a MOSFET underneath the board. Right under the power input. Its fried to a crisp. But the amp still works fine. I kinda think it powers the lights, because I noticed when I got it one of the bulbs are busted and grounded out to the heat sink. Anyway, anyone know what kinda MOSFET it is? I'd like to get it fixed. Its beyond recognizable.. Any help would be great! I know a lot of people diss audiobahn, I don't like most of their stuff myself. But this amp matches my immortal. And will do good pushing it, thats all I need it to do.
  12. Cmac433

    Help!! Audiobahn 2300hct

    I have a 2300hct. It works fine. But their is a mosfet under the board..right under the power input. I noticed one of the lights was busted and grounded out on the heat sink. And the lights don't work. So I think it's a power mosfet for the lights. Anyone know what kinda mosfet it is? I would like to replace it. It's burned to a crisp. Can't make anything out on it. I know their are a ton of audiobahn haters out there. I got this amp to match the immortal I have. And it will push it just fine. I'm not trying to compete with it or anything. So it does the job. Any input would be great! Thanks guys
  13. BASShead12

    Amps without fuses????????

    So I bought a crescendo bc2000d and 1/0 gauge to run to it and do big 3. I noticed the amp doesn't have fuses on it do I need to put another fuse closer to the amp besides the fuse next to the car battery?
  14. Hello, so my first time installing components. I have tweeters that came with passive crossovers. I was wondering how they work with the amps crossovers and filters. I was also wondering if I wire the tweeters to the mids parallel to each channel. I have a ampere 150.4, alphard audio 6.5s, and crescendo sts-1 tweeters. Both tweets and mids are 4 ohm so parallel gets me to 2 ohm at 225w rms on my amp. I will be running a 6.5 and tweeter in each door wired to a seperate channel. Thanks!
  15. I'm not a pro in this area so please be patient. I recently had my sub installed at a shop in my area along with an amp and a lc7i. Whenever I crank the volume up I get this low rumbling sound from the sub. It makes this noise even when there is no bass in the music I'm listening to (i.e. intro, outro). However, it doesn't make this noise while the music is paused. When I looked in my trunk i noticed that they ran all of my signal cables with my power and ground, so I figure there's a ground issue. I went back to have it looked at and the guy told me that since my car is so small it will make that noise due to the amount of bass that I have, and if it was in the trunk of a small car instead of the back of an suv I wouldn't hear it. None of this sounds correct to me, am I correct in assuming that he was just being lazy? I also noticed that my bass knob does not turn my amp all the way off. When the knob is all the way down I can still hear my sub, just at a much lower volume. Is this normal? Oh yeah, due to my sub being a 2ohm and my amp not being 1ohm stable I am forced for now to operate at a 4ohm load. This is only pushing 750 watts to a sub that 1100 watts is recommended for. The instructions say that I can safely power it with 500-1200 watts rms. Could this be a contributing factor? 2009 BMW X3 single Kicker Comp Q 15 Kicker ZXS1500.1 Audiocontrol LC7i
  16. Andrew Storlie

    BANDA Amps.... need help

    so looking to get a big boy amp and ive been hearing about the brand "Banda" for awhile and gave them a look... trying to figure out if they are real... a 7k rated 12.6v at 1ohm amp for only 790usd!!!! cant be true... and a freaking 10krms rated for 1300... ive seen a video of evo looking at one powering 4-15s in a wall doing a 155+ and lots of other high end power builds with them so i ASSUME they are doing rated or atleast close to it. STEVE MEADE.... please get your hands on a banda amp and dyno it please... this would be crazy and good for alot of people to hear they are good amps. THIS IS THE SUB IM LOOKING TO POWER EMF Ermagerd 18 V2 neo
  17. a good friend of mine called me up yesterday and said he had 2 Soundstream MC500's for sale and would hook me up proper. Of course i said yes and to bring them by. Back in 1989, i JUST graduated High School, my parents moved away and i didn't have but a wooden nickel to my name. I couldn't even come close to something of this caliber at that time. Anyway, when he told me he really needed the money i figured it was my duty to make him an offer he couldn't refuse and try to take both of them . I couldn't help it, as soon as i saw them i knew i had to at least try. He took my offer and they are both mine. No, i am not sure what i am going to do with them just yet. I will open them up, show the guts and run them on the dyno at some point i know that! It would be fun to do an oldschool SQ build with all vintage Soundstream amps some day. But just having them in my collection feels so nice More pics and some vids coming soon! Serial #25XX (i forgot to take a pic) and Serial #31XX (also forgot to take a pic). Ill have more updates to this post as i pull them apart and look at the guts
  18. I have a R.F. P600.2. For the longest time it was working just fine. Then one day it just stopped. I finally nailed the issue down to the Power Block (Power, Ground, Rem) area. If i lift up on my wires just a little bit the amp turns on with no problem. But it only lasts for a few seconds. I think that i have to re-solder the connections internally. but im not sure...any ideas?
  19. I'm kind of new to car audio and I can't seem to figure this out. If you are using a crossover or DSP how do you get power to your tweeters? I don't know any amplifiers that have that low of wattage except 4-channel amps. But then they only have 2 outputs, show what do I do with the other 2 channels?
  20. Juan1988

    Amp tuning

    What should I set the knobs labeled "Width" and "Center" my previous amp didn't have these knobs and hit lowsend clean below 30hz but theven amp I have now hits dirty
  21. A while back, I posted a thread about ways to use an amp with a maximum of 2 volts gain amp with a modern 4v head unit. It occurred to me today that I could simply use one of the most basic electronic circuits ever: two resistors in series to drop the 4v RCA preout to a 2v one. Would this work in practice? I can't think of a reason it wouldn't, but I figured I'd ask anyway. The process I would use is detailed here:
  22. graham0599

    Amp going into protect

    So I know there's a millions threads about this topic but I feel this case is a little different, at least from what I've been able to find. What I have is a Formula-X 5k. It's wired at 1ohm, gains set at -5db with DD-1. T-Spec V12 rca from Pioneer AVH-X4500BT to PAC LC-1. Same rca from LC-1 to amp. AudioTechnix "1/0", throwback to before AT became CT lol, also the wire is actually a 2/0. 2 pos, 2 neg runs from amp to rear batts. Each run is about 3' each. The amp is randomly going into protect and I can't figure out why. It will do it at any volume, any temperature, any voltage, just totally random. It seems to do it the first time after like 20+ minutes of just low/average volume listening. It'll stay off probably 2-15ish mins, come back on, then after probably 10-15ish mans, shut back off, and repeat. Amp rarely sees below 14v. At full tilt, it rarely sees below 13v. Amp gets plenty of air flow since it's raised and very open, A/C blows on it too. It's hardly warm when it happens, barely above car temp. The one thing I'm wondering if is affecting is, is the LC-1. I don't know if they can "wear out" mine is around 3 years old. I'd prefer to not bypass it but I could temporarily for testing link to amp Thanks for any help Let me know if I missed anything/any questions
  23. Bass Is Good

    Silver Kicker KX2400.1 Amp Guts

    Hey everybody. I looked everywhere on the internet for the silver Kicker KX2400.1 amplifier guts and couldn't find a single picture! Well, it turns out I have one sitting around and figured I'd open it up, take a couple pictures, and share them with you guys.
  24. Hey I recently bought a sundown amp but I am a little confused on how to wire it up. They show a diagram in the owners manual but I don't really understand it. It's a monoblock amp but it has dual out puts. Do I just use one of the positives and negatives? Or do I just take 2 from the positive out put and connect them together and then do the same thing with the negative output? I know I could probably guess and it would work but I just wanted to know what the best way was.
  25. <div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.25%"><iframe src="" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> <div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.25%"><iframe src="" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div> is the video showing?