onebadmonte Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 What's up fellas? Just trying to make some progress around these parts. I've got a little progress report for all of you. Hey, wait a sec, I'm Texan, I meant to say, "Ya'll." I'm working towards getting the front stage going. For my build I'm going to keep the electrical for the front stage separate from the sub-stage. The front stage electrical will be wired directly to the front battery. This will allow me to remove the rear battery bank and sub-box without affecting the front stage. God only knows why I'd want to go through the hassle of doing that, but to be honest, I wouldn't sleep comfortably at night if I didn't have the option. I once heard being rich isn't about having money, being rich is about having options. I like having options. Enough with the preaching, on with the pics. First an impressive state of disassembly. It's not a proper build if you don't strip the interior to the point your significant other says WTF. I'll be wiring the front stage with a scoche amp wiring kit from walmart. To get it to work I added a modified 1/0 ring terminal to the battery cable. Like all things GM this thing has side post terminals. It's always questionable trying to squeeze in a ring terminal under the factory terminal. Roaming the isles of Walmart I found this bad boy for a buck fifty in the automotive section. The longer bolt pops right in place and the lead spacer is easily trimmed to accommodate additional terminals. Here is mine in place. Nothing fancy here just mounting the maxi-fuse in place with some rivnuts. Fuse mounted. For those interested there is a nice little area under this thing-a-ma-jig to run your power wire through in a suburban. The thing-a-ma-jig has been removed and is off to the side. Here I am mounting the distribution block on the rear floor air duct under the drivers side seat. I'm telling you, these rivnuts are awesome. Distribution block mounted. Here is what's coming up next. Routing the wires, mounting the crossovers and front stage amp. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 Just an inch of progress today. I hope you all didn't think I was going active off the amps crossover's. Cleaned up the wiring to the crossovers and got them properly mounted. These are under the drivers side rear seat. Under the passengers side rear seat is this bad boy. With the processor mounted on the floor I can still fold down the passengers side rear seat to access the third row. Did I mention this Suburban came with a front bench seat. No center console, so this monster seats 9. o_o The amp will be mounted on the drivers side rear seat rails, so that side will not fold down properly to access the third row. Any who here's a pic of the MS8 all wired up ready to party. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMac91 Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 Wow I just went through all of your stuff.. Amazing. Vehicle: 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t awd.Headunit: Kenwood DDX-470Doors: 4x Focal 6.5s/tweets (Adding)Sub: 2x Sundown Zv4 12's D1Amps: B2 Zero.1, MB Quart OA600.4Box: 5.2ish @ 32, Made with Maple, solid oak braces, 45s all around, 2x 5.8" pipes, all fiberglassed up.Battery: XS D3100, Block Shakers 110AHAlternator: 250A Excessive Amperage. All Sky High OFC Wiring. My Build, plenty of pics: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/198281-2002-volvo-s60-awd-24t-build-log/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplehaze Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 yessir, you are doing a super awesome job, man I'm excited for ya! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 Wow I just went through all of your stuff.. Amazing. Thanks yessir, you are doing a super awesome job, man I'm excited for ya! You're excited, bro, I'm excited. We're both excited. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG GANT Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 super clean build. i cant wait to see the finished product. youve got some impressive skills Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukaQ Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 mmm my kinda sub Got carbon fiber dust cap??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 super clean build. i cant wait to see the finished product. youve got some impressive skills Thanks, all it takes is patients. mmm my kinda sub They're okay, I prefer meatball subs myself. They're tastier and easier to pick up. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Updates! For all you Harbor Freight haters check this out. The front seats in this Suburban are bolted down with these coarse spline head bolts and nuts. Think twice about taking a standard hex sockets to these. The logic behind such a design is that a greater amount of torque can be applied to this design than to a similar sized hex. Therefore a hex socket is just going to round these nuts and bolts. Enter Harbor Freight. They were the only ones who carried a socket that would work on these. Check it. I got the passive crossovers wired up and in place. Here is how the whole thing is coming out. The amp rack is going to be mounted above the crossovers on the seat rails. Here is a pic of the amp rack coming together. To get the process started I put a rivnut in an existing hole on the seat rail. I got the first mounting hole in the amp rack done. The rest of the mounting holes are just 1/8" pilot holes for now. I'll use the pilot holes as guides to transfer the mounting location on to the seat rails one at a time. To make sure I get each hole transferred accurately I have bolted the amp rack down with the first mounting bolt. On a side note, to have the amp rack properly level I glued a couple of strips of wood to one side of the amp rack. Here is the second mounting location transferred from the amp rack to the seat rail. (Silver dot, left end of rail) The hole is drilled and the rivnut is in place. The amp rack will now go back in and bolted down. The process will be repeated for the next mounting location. The amp rack is in place. Here is the amp in it's general location. More on the way. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadmonte Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Follow up! With the amp located I traced out it's profile onto the amp rack. I'm using a pair of squares to get my lines nice and straight. Here is the profile and location of the cutouts for the wiring. Cutout complete, time for some upholstery. Amp rack in place and nicely upholstered if I don't say so myself. Amp in place. Side shot with the seat down. Plenty of clearance for proper ventilation. Power side and speakers wired up. Warhorse vs A Pair of SMDeez build Olds Cutlass Cierra IB build 2 Fi IB3 18s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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