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Addictive Audio 500.1.. If anyone can fix amps LOOK!!


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Same board.

Might be different components, but they are the same.

Both S&I boards, both do same power at 18 volts, both won't run under .66 reactive.

I think the only real difference is a substance used in the solder, their is some gold somewhere on the board of the AA if I'm not mistaken.

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how do you figure its the same board? I'm not arguing I don't know much about boards of amps... But from the looks of them both they are different... I have the pic of mine up there p.2 and i looked up the American bass 500.1 and they dont look the same at all.

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This is way different to the old AB VFL500.1 for what that's worth.

The amp's been dropped on the end connectors. The terminal block has been shoved way, way in which is why that resistor is bent over/snapped.

Should be an easy enough fix though, but I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself, you need specialist stuff (mini blowtorch) to get the solder mask hot enough on those stupid huge connectors.

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Same board.

Might be different components, but they are the same.

Both S&I boards, both do same power at 18 volts, both won't run under .66 reactive.

I think the only real difference is a substance used in the solder, their is some gold somewhere on the board of the AA if I'm not mistaken.

Same as what?

I had the number 22 of the AA 500.1, and I couldn't find any amp with the same board as it.

But these are strong amps I must say. I ran mine at 2.8ohms(dual 1.4) in series, and it put out a good 2k+.

This amp orignially came from the guy I got mine, TeamXDMatt, I almost bought both but somebody beat me to one. So I was left with one, then sold it over a month ago on ca.com.

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local tv/electric repair shop probably could repair it fairly cheap. Could get them to send you a terminal block then take it to local shop and have them do it.

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I think I'll end up sending it to AA. They have given me a good price to fix it... Plus I already had it picked up by UPS for my damn claim... Pisses me the fuck off... All I gotta say is unless this amp was in 6'' thick of bubble wrap this would still have happened. The mounting foot on these amps are like solid steel and it bent the piss outta the end it landed on or whatever hit it. At the same time it broke this damn terminal off which by my understanding isn't the easiest thing to do...

1 Crossfire XS v2 15"

2 Deka group31a's

1 XS Power D3400 (under hood)

1 Addictive Audio 500.1 :D

1 Rockford 3sixty.2

4 Crescendo pwx 6.5s

2 Pyle Pro Super tweets

1 Crescendo 1000c4

Kenwood excelon x494 Head unit

Big Three upgrade

All 0 gauge of course

1 4.56c^ft box @28hz

(New Best official db score= 151.2 @ 36hz)

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Same board.

Might be different components, but they are the same.

Both S&I boards, both do same power at 18 volts, both won't run under .66 reactive.

I think the only real difference is a substance used in the solder, their is some gold somewhere on the board of the AA if I'm not mistaken.

i would have to say that youre wrong i have mine in rt now at .5 running a lot of power and verry stable i have the bettery bank to back it up tho thease amps are beasts just wish there were more around

american bass 1100.1 2 hertz hdp4 m&h amps hertz xls audison voice mids and highs 4 fi hybrid subs 1 xs power g31 batt and 6 banks of maxwell caps big 3 mechman 270 singer 350 and another singer 300 amp alts 7 runs of 4/0 TEAM bass drop meca s4 2011 153.7 db at headrest 4 15s

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[quote name=dwright27' date='01 March 2011 - 01:35 PM' timestamp='1299011709'

post='1420386]

Same board.

Might be different components, but they are the same.

Both S&I boards, both do same power at 18 volts, both won't run under .66 reactive.

I think the only real difference is a

substance used in the solder, their is

some gold somewhere on the board of the AA if I'm not mistaken.

i would have to say that youre wrong i have mine in rt now at .5 running a lot

of power and verry stable i have the

bettery bank to back it up tho thease amps are beasts just wish there were more around

Maybe you misunderstood the term reactive load. So unless you are running at almost a dead short nominal, and have dual .25 coils, or MANY woofers, or virtually no impedance rise you have to be talking about nominal load.

In case you didn't know what reactive load is, it is the impedance before box rise is factored in, before the subs get to moving ( which changes impedance BTW) and before all other things are considered on reading ohms.

Try pushing on the cone and taking your impedance.

You're probably running at .5 nominal.

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

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