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Is stock enough for 1400 rms?


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DC power does have a "oem" series of alts in the 200-300 dollar range that put the power in the range he needs

1997 crown vic police interceptor

headunit: avic x710bt

sub amp: powerbass xta 1500d

sub: fi 15" bl fully loaded

enclosure: 3.5 cubes @ 33hz firing through rear deck

mids/highs: crappy pioneer paper cone 6x9's and stock rears for now

mid/high amp:h/u power FTL

wiring: knuconceptz 1/0 memphis interterconnects

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Woah! Yeah, I'm looking at them now. SOB why does car audio have to be such an expensive hobby?

Edit: where are the "OEM" alts? I'm doing all this from my iPhone since I don't have a working computer

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Well you don't have really have to get a HO alternator for your setup.. dropping a couple of volts won't hurt. You're just not going to get the most out of the RF amps but it still will bang.

Mids/Highs: stock Bang & Olufsen

Lows: Image Dynamics IDMax 12v.3

Power: Sony Xplod XM-D9001GTR:Knukonceptz 4 gauge

Box: 1.75 cu/ft Sealed

Past: Pioneer Premier TS-W1207 (2)/ Rockford Fosgate P210/ Image Dynamics ID10V.3/ Infinity Reference 311A/ Audiopipe AP-18001D

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lol you gotta pay to play

rewinding is when they take your alt open it up and re wind the copper wire that is inside re winding a differnt way im not an alt guy so i dunno what they really do but rewinding it gives you way more amps my team mate had his wound up from 75 amps to 185 amps for half the price your looking at for new alt. but being a stock alt 185 amps was the most it could be upgraded

cons on rewound alt

has to come off the car and go to a shop meaning your car could be down for a few days

and the after market ones will almost allways be better

pros

good for a budget half the price

still works great gets the job done

for a lil 1400 watt system it would work great upgrading in the futur like everyone does means you will have to pay more later for a bigger alt

but that also go's if you buy a 160 amp alt and later need a 300amp alt

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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I have a friend with some level 4s and an RF amp, and when he upgraded his alt and cut out the voltage drop (it was dipping down to 13.0) there was definite an audible difference; Thad why I'm already looking into swapping, or at least having it rewound.

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bassick i think you're forgetting about the HUGE loss in idle output. i had a rewound aftermarket 165 amp alt for my car. i remember one time when my car was in park, idling, lights off, no music, i was dropping to high 11's. i always had ot put my car in neutral and rev the engine a little to have my voltage above 13.

edit: you can combat this with a smaller pulley though.

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You don't NEED to but you will get more amps at idle with a smaller pully. But you have to be careful with that cause you can grenade your alt's rotor if it can't handle the speed when your RPM's are high.

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bassick i think you're forgetting about the HUGE loss in idle output. i had a rewound aftermarket 165 amp alt for my car. i remember one time when my car was in park, idling, lights off, no music, i was dropping to high 11's. i always had ot put my car in neutral and rev the engine a little to have my voltage above 13.

edit: you can combat this with a smaller pulley though.

good catch kranny

this is also true you do lose idle output with a rewound alt and yes a smaller pulley will help add to the list of cons

i still says it cant be beat for a budget but if it were me i would save and get the after market unless i knew i would be broke for while then i would get the rewind done

ether way it will help

Have you ever had your woofers blown?

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