RAM_Designs Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Yea i was def. Gonna double baffle and maybe running some 1x1 for bracing from the front to rear of the box. I was also thinking about a removable port like mr. Meade's box kinda flush it into the baffle and bolt it with weather striping so i could change the tuning when wanted or needed. Any advice on that? Exactly why are you wanting to change the tuning? Competitions? Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifted_silverado Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Just in case i dont care for the tuning it has i figure if the box doesnt turn out the way i'd like it would be easier to remove the port and build another as opposed to rebuilding the entire enclosure. Everythings in the attic or garage since the truck was sold last year. New build should be coming soon in a dodge cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM_Designs Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Have you though about using a pair of 6" Aeroports(one on each side)? It'd make changing tuning much easier. Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevyhoe08 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Yea i was def. Gonna double baffle and maybe running some 1x1 for bracing from the front to rear of the box. I was also thinking about a removable port like mr. Meade's box kinda flush it into the baffle and bolt it with weather striping so i could change the tuning when wanted or needed. Any advice on that? you can use some 2"x2" which is really 1.5"x1.5" from the home depot they are only like a dollar something, you only need one, go from top to bottom panels and from front to rear walls thats really all the bracing you need. you dont need double baffle as long as you do a good bracing. let me explain why; if you put a double baffle than that part of the box gets really strong than your front and rear panels get more flexing, than you will need to double those. you see where i am going with this. if you going to double baffle just do the whole box double the only reason to double baffle is if your going to flush mount. .12cu.ft. wont make a difference on anything. so go ahead and add some bracing. 2-18" Fi Btls 2-RF T2500-1bd box 14cu.ft after displacement tuned @ 32hz. Socal Box Designer/builder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM_Designs Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 if you put a double baffle than that part of the box gets really strong than your front and rear panels get more flexing, than you will need to double those. The other panels aren't going to flex more because the face of the box is doubled up. The main reason to double up the front in this case is to give the screws more wood to bite into because you have a 60lb sub being used, and having it mounted on a vertical plane is going to put strain on the screws holding it in. The added rigidity is a plus. A couple of window braces will go a long way in this case(assuming one of them won't be too close to the port). Double the baffle and put a window brace an inch or two on each side of the sub cutout(assuming sub is centered), and he'll have a very sturdy box. MT's are no joke, they need a beefy box. Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifted_silverado Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Ok so i just went and got all my wood, have to pick up some saw horses and begin my build. I did get 2x2 for bracing and was planing on runing it on either side of the sub so it should be nice and sturdy Everythings in the attic or garage since the truck was sold last year. New build should be coming soon in a dodge cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevyhoe08 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 if you put a double baffle than that part of the box gets really strong than your front and rear panels get more flexing, than you will need to double those. The other panels aren't going to flex more because the face of the box is doubled up. The main reason to double up the front in this case is to give the screws more wood to bite into because you have a 60lb sub being used, and having it mounted on a vertical plane is going to put strain on the screws holding it in. The added rigidity is a plus. A couple of window braces will go a long way in this case(assuming one of them won't be too close to the port). Double the baffle and put a window brace an inch or two on each side of the sub cutout(assuming sub is centered), and he'll have a very sturdy box. MT's are no joke, they need a beefy box. it all depends on what screws he uses, i would recommend him t-nuts. i had my btls mounted on a wall before and the only problem i always saw was screws breaking because of cheap screws never had them strip out of the wood just screws breaking. If you can screw 3 wood screws into 3/4" mdf wood and pull them out with a catspaw i would be very surprise. now try 7 or whatever the sub has all together. the 3/4" wood is not the issue, its the screws. Always use tee nuts on this type of setup. 2-18" Fi Btls 2-RF T2500-1bd box 14cu.ft after displacement tuned @ 32hz. Socal Box Designer/builder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAM_Designs Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 it all depends on what screws he uses, i would recommend him t-nuts. i had my btls mounted on a wall before and the only problem i always saw was screws breaking because of cheap screws never had them strip out of the wood just screws breaking. If you can screw 3 wood screws into 3/4" mdf wood and pull them out with a catspaw i would be very surprise. now try 7 or whatever the sub has all together. the 3/4" wood is not the issue, its the screws. Always use tee nuts on this type of setup. T-nuts or hurricane nuts are good choices. I have heard of them popping out in some cases, but hammering them in with some wood glue to fill any voids seems to cure that. As far as screws go, I have seen DC LVL5 18's pull coarse thread drywall screws(which as you know grip MDF very well) out of a double baffle before. But they are a little heavier than MT's and it was a pretty extreme setup. Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevyhoe08 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 it all depends on what screws he uses, i would recommend him t-nuts. i had my btls mounted on a wall before and the only problem i always saw was screws breaking because of cheap screws never had them strip out of the wood just screws breaking. If you can screw 3 wood screws into 3/4" mdf wood and pull them out with a catspaw i would be very surprise. now try 7 or whatever the sub has all together. the 3/4" wood is not the issue, its the screws. Always use tee nuts on this type of setup. T-nuts or hurricane nuts are good choices. I have heard of them popping out in some cases, but hammering them in with some wood glue to fill any voids seems to cure that. As far as screws go, I have seen DC LVL5 18's pull coarse thread drywall screws(which as you know grip MDF very well) out of a double baffle before. But they are a little heavier than MT's and it was a pretty extreme setup. yeah i have done that do with my 18" btls on 2 - t25001bds but it was because they where hand tight. when i use my 1/4" impact gun to drive the screws, they hold really good. but seems to break because of the cheap thin screw. lol. 2-18" Fi Btls 2-RF T2500-1bd box 14cu.ft after displacement tuned @ 32hz. Socal Box Designer/builder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifted_silverado Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Should i center the sub on the face or does it make a difference Everythings in the attic or garage since the truck was sold last year. New build should be coming soon in a dodge cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.