412 CVX Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Tempting, 4 12"s in the trunk sounds a little tight on space, but I don't know the car so I couldn't say for sure. One thing is for sure though, you definitely will not need metal angle braces if the box is built right. My wall rolls with a 2" thick baffle and absolutely no bracing, no baffle flex going on there.bracing just interrupts airflow, maybe use threaded rod instead of 1x1" square dowel. how does bracing interrupt airflow? and i'm not sure i know what threaded rod is Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Tempting, 4 12"s in the trunk sounds a little tight on space, but I don't know the car so I couldn't say for sure. One thing is for sure though, you definitely will not need metal angle braces if the box is built right. My wall rolls with a 2" thick baffle and absolutely no bracing, no baffle flex going on there.bracing just interrupts airflow, maybe use threaded rod instead of 1x1" square dowel. how does bracing interrupt airflow? and i'm not sure i know what threaded rod is Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Tempting, 4 12"s in the trunk sounds a little tight on space, but I don't know the car so I couldn't say for sure. One thing is for sure though, you definitely will not need metal angle braces if the box is built right. My wall rolls with a 2" thick baffle and absolutely no bracing, no baffle flex going on there.bracing just interrupts airflow, maybe use threaded rod instead of 1x1" square dowel. how does bracing interrupt airflow? and i'm not sure i know what threaded rod is Double post fail mate It gets in the way of internal air movement, air moves in the box too, not just the port. Pretty much the smaller your bracing device is the better, or have none at all. If the box is built well it isn't really needed unless you have something truly crazy like Hank's 48 SA10"s, that snapped one of the metal braces, but then think about the force of 24 10"s moving back and forth many times a second. It's a metal bar with a screw thread the full length of it. Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Without cutting the max you can do is 2 10s sealed forward or 1 12 sealed forward with the right port area. Now. If in the trunk you can do two twelves correctly or 3 10s correctly ported. Or 3 12s sealed correctly. Maybe two 15s sealed correctly. If you want a box sealed forward the max square dimensions are 13 tall and 28 wide then however deep the trunk is technically. If the box is in the trunk you can do about 36 wide I believe in between the trunk hinges, about 18 tall and 30-35 deep I believe and it will fit in the trunk opening with only a little fight. i think the term "correctly" flew out of my vocabulary the second i looked at the owners manual for the subs. if i go ported i'm mainly looking to be able to do a hairtrick (even a small one) while still retaining some sound quality. if i go sealed, i'm looking for the best sound quality possible (but it still needs to be somewhat loud) Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert8252 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Do one 12" Fi BTL, 12" AA mayhem, or 12" DC XL on a 3k rms amp sealed forward. 2-2.2 cubes net with 40^ inches of port. Budget needs to be $1,500-2,500. Your stock alt will handle 3k with a XS3400 up front and XS3400 in rear with all 0g wiring and 0g big three. Quote 2013 F150 Crew Cab Old Build Log Feedback 2013 F150 Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Do one 12" Fi BTL, 12" AA mayhem, or 12" DC XL on a 3k rms amp sealed forward. 2-2.2 cubes net with 40^ inches of port. Budget needs to be $1,500-2,500. Your stock alt will handle 3k with a XS3400 up front and XS3400 in rear with all 0g wiring and 0g big three. I've run a 3k Atomic on all stock (with 0g big 3 etc. of course) for a year with no issues, just had to run the engine when bumping, I'm sure he'd get away with one of those batts and his stock one just fine Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 Do one 12" Fi BTL, 12" AA mayhem, or 12" DC XL on a 3k rms amp sealed forward. 2-2.2 cubes net with 40^ inches of port. Budget needs to be $1,500-2,500. Your stock alt will handle 3k with a XS3400 up front and XS3400 in rear with all 0g wiring and 0g big three. ha i'm not sure if you've seen my screen name, but i have 4 12" cvx's already. i would have gone with fi if i didn't work at best buy and get the cvx's for about 1/3 of the retail price. Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert8252 Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 I have a Taurus. I know what it will take to do anything close that you want. Sealed forward you are going to peak at 32-35hz no matter your tuning which is great for low bass and "hairtricks" with enough power but in order todo it will take a lot. Find someone on here to design you a 4th order for the subs. I don't think it will fit but maybe if you build in the trunk it will and that would be your best bet to even get close to a good hairtrick besides what I mentioned. And as far as the electrical I recommended that will keep voltage above 13 all day at idle. It won't budge from 14+ while driving or above 1k rpm Quote 2013 F150 Crew Cab Old Build Log Feedback 2013 F150 Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15_Silvia Posted March 16, 2011 Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 @ OP - does your username mean you're in Pittsburgh? Quote 2016 Subaru BRZ | Sony XAV-AX100 | Rockford Fosgate DSM 4080 & DSM 40ix | On 6/6/2012 at 6:32 PM, 'LZTYBRN' said: 3. Don't put speakers outside the car unless you are the ice cream man. My feedback thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2011 @ OP - does your username mean you're in Pittsburgh? nope. smack dab in the middle of nowhere...erm.. iowa. my username stands for 4 12" cvx subs Quote Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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