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so you buy a 1000 watt woofer and never run more than half their rated to them?

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Really? Damn. He said he never gave them more then 500rms each. So idk ill give them a listen today and see what's up.

doesnt really matter if there less than half rms but if they were clipped for the 10 years they have been out then your not getting any gain what so ever

stick with dc great sub and pretty strong

Vehicle: 2017 Chevrolet Silverado High Country

Electrical: 320A Singer Alt, (2) Limitless Lithium 15ah, Full Throttle FT680-48

Speakers: Stevens Audio SA 6 (ACTIVE), Audio Designs 3”

Subwoofer: (4) B2 Audio XM 8’s

Amplifiers: (2) B2 Audio Rage 2500.1, (1) B2 Audio Rage 1200.6

Processors: NavTv M650 (integration), Helix DSP Pro MK2

 

Silverado Build Log

 

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Ill give them a listen today. I'm going to pull both subs out the box and check the coils, tinsel leads and spiders. What if the subs are still stiff?

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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Or if the coils are copper and not black?

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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you planning on reconing them on the spot? you wont se ethe coils otherwise. Ill tell you right now my DDs are still stiff but are badly needing a recone job. that menas nothing really.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Share on other sites

I'm not planning to keep them. Going to use them for a while then sell them. I'm going to bring my dmm to check the coils as well. I'm sure its posible to get an idea of the coil color. Even a hint of the coil would work. He's going to play them for me and ill see them with trunk open and ill try to check for any weird noises.

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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Ill see what's up I won't get ripped nor trade if I'm not happy with them.

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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Alright here is the deal. These are my subs. I bought them in 2003 when I worked at a rockford dealer in Lawrence, Kansas. The subs had never seen power until the beginning of last year. The only reason I ran them is I wanted to do an SQ set-up. The Subs are being ran on a Lightning Audio LA-3000MD at two OHMs which puts it at under 1000 watts total rms. The box was built by James at the Digital Designs Dealer in Concordia, Mo and it was given to me for free when i bought my DD 3510's from him.

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DC>RF. Thats why. Imo dc subs sound ALOT better than rf subs. RF is still a good company though :good:

You were like 8 years old when these rockfords came out lol old school rockford smashes new school rockford to pieces until you get into the T2 power range of the new stuff.

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rockford is better for there amps imo cant waits to get some dc subs instead of my p1s

You are comparing apples to oranges if you're comparing RF P1's to any DC sub. You can pick up almost new P1's for $50 a piece. You cant touch DC subs for that. DC has 3inch voice coils and the power ratings are crazy different. P1's are 2 inch voice coils and rated at 150 rms and 300 peak. Even DC's lowest level sub has a 2.5in voice coil and an underrated 300rms rating.

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