Battery..

[CaptainzPlanetz]

$250...what kind of amp. The big 3 is going to be a very essential upgrade, and one that will greatly affect the charging of your stock system.

Quick Google search came up with this

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17529_Power-Acoustik-OVN1-5500D.html

So figure about 1800rms on the best of days

[JMac91]

$250...what kind of amp. The big 3 is going to be a very essential upgrade, and one that will greatly affect the charging of your stock system.

Quick Google search came up with this

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17529_Power-Acoustik-OVN1-5500D.html

So figure about 1800rms on the best of days

wired at 2 ohms. I got 2 d2 pioneer champ series pros. (2k rms anyways) home made box. was fun stuff.

But idk I guess I can try the big 3 first.. but it gave my battery a pretty hard beating before i could even turn it up all the way so i figured another battery would help even after i did the big 3.

[JMac91]

This battery should do pretty good.

And copper clad aluminum wire isn't as conductive as OFC wire.

Well i realize that.. but do u recon itll do the job for my system?

[Supercharged DCs]

I would definitely do Big3 first, because that amp isn't pushing the 2500w it says it is at 2ohms. You should clamp it to see the real power it's putting out...

And honestly I don't have much experience with wiring, it's my least favorite thing about audio lol so I can't answer that question...

Edited March 27, 2011 by Supercharged DDs

[CaptainzPlanetz]

$250...what kind of amp. The big 3 is going to be a very essential upgrade, and one that will greatly affect the charging of your stock system.

Quick Google search came up with this

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17529_Power-Acoustik-OVN1-5500D.html

So figure about 1800rms on the best of days

wired at 2 ohms. I got 2 d2 pioneer champ series pros. (2k rms anyways) home made box. was fun stuff.

But idk I guess I can try the big 3 first.. but it gave my battery a pretty hard beating before i could even turn it up all the way so i figured another battery would help even after i did the big 3.

What I meant is it will do that at 1ohm, at 2 ohms expect much less

[Ji553r]

i have an 05 and was told the d6500 from XS would fit perfectly. only thing to think about is I payed for mine on the 19th but they are out of stock till April 6th so then shipping will come on top of that.

[JMac91]

I guess ill have to do that.. first i just wanna know if usin copper clad alluminum 0g wiring is ok.. atleast for my system.

and how do i check it exactly?

Honestly I didnt really intend to spend much more on this system.

But after hookin it up and crankin it, it turned into another story.

I can get cca 0g wiring for 1.95 a feet.. and everything else is like 3.60.. so thats a nice difference.

And a good answer to know.

Edited March 27, 2011 by JMac91

[D-train-13k]

To start, upgrade the big 3 in 0 gauge, get the largest battery you can fit up front should drastically increase performance. Also, more info on vehicle, equipment, and wiring.

Shitty 1995 for explorer.

Just tryin to get info on what battery would be best.

the first battery listed is what 350? I dont really wanna pay more than i did for my amp which was 250 so i guess that can be a price limit.. I didnt set one cuz half the time people dont pay attention to them anyways.. so no need to get angry man.

cheaper the better i guess.

and the wiring is gonna be all 1/0g'd out. my speaker wire is 8g. I just wanted to get the battery out of the way first cuz itll prolly be more expensive.

also whats wrong with copper clad aluminum wiring?

Die Hard Sears batter Platinum p-2

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850065000P?mv=rr

and you definitely need to do the Big 3 with 0 guage.

Edited March 27, 2011 by D-train-13k

[JMac91]

To start, upgrade the big 3 in 0 gauge, get the largest battery you can fit up front should drastically increase performance. Also, more info on vehicle, equipment, and wiring.

Shitty 1995 for explorer.

Just tryin to get info on what battery would be best.

the first battery listed is what 350? I dont really wanna pay more than i did for my amp which was 250 so i guess that can be a price limit.. I didnt set one cuz half the time people dont pay attention to them anyways.. so no need to get angry man.

cheaper the better i guess.

and the wiring is gonna be all 1/0g'd out. my speaker wire is 8g. I just wanted to get the battery out of the way first cuz itll prolly be more expensive.

also whats wrong with copper clad aluminum wiring?

Die Hard Sears batter Platinum p-2

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850065000P?mv=rr

and you definitely need to do the Big 3 with 0 guage.

Thanks everyone for the responses.

Just 1 more question for now should my fuse be a 200a or 250a.. not positive on that, just thinkin.

and I just ordered plenty of 0g wire so ill be waiting for that. found a decent price of pure stuff.

[AudioFiend]

PLEASE READ THIS BECAUSE IT WOULD SEEM YOU HAVE BEEN FED INCORRECT INFO REGARDING YOUR CAR'S CHARGING SYSTEM, AND BATTERIES IN GENERAL!!

I find myself forced to un-teach all these battery company's marketing hype...

When a vehicle is running..The electrical components in the vehicle DRAW POWER FROM THE ALTERNATOR not the BATTERY!..When the system is pulling more power than the ALTERNATOR can produce, the system starts to draw power from the battery which frankly is not good for batteries or amps...Batteries are not meant to be used as long term power sources hence voltage drop..amp failure..sub failure..and all sorts of problems, because BATTERIES ARE NOT MEANT TO POWER THE CAR'S ELECTRONICS!

Here is how to calculate what alternator you need:

A 1000 watt amp with 50% efficiency = 2000

2000 / 13.8 volts = 144

Now that 144 is the amplifier's ampere draw...Divide this by 3 for music (Because music is not one solid bass note...It's intermittent bursts of various levels of power..Or use the full 144 for burps or test tones.

For your purposes you need to divide that 144 by 3 which = Approx. 50

Ok now we've established your 1000 watt amp is going to pull an average of 50 amps from your alternator while the alternator is putting out 13.8v (a totally hypothetical average)

Say your car came with a 95 amp alt...On average vehicle manufacturers allow a little leeway in the alternator for a little after market gear, but usually that's 25-40% of the total. So from your stock 95amp alt about 30amps is free for aftermarket gear.

Well we've established a small 1000 watt amp on average music..Not cranked up rap music draws an average of 50 amps of current from your alt...This is not good because your alt only has 30 amps to spare.

When your amp pulls more amperes than your alternator can put out...The battery(s) pick up the slack and cover the amperes the system needs to keep running...There is one problem with that scenario, and that is; the battery is not a steady gas powered DC generator like your alternator...Batteries' voltage can drop not to mention alternators only charge batteries to 80% of their maximum capacity...An alternator is not a battery charger...It's a battery maintainer..It will charge the battery to x amount of volts per cell then it stops charging...

Look I could write you a book....But batteries are not what you want your system running on...They are meant to start cars, yea they've made them beefier to handle more amp draw for longer periods but go ahead and hook up 350 amps to your D3100 and watch it be permanently fucked in about 20 seconds...While a 350 amp alternator can put out that load for years...

Like I said an alternator is a battery maintainer not a charger...This means you need to perform certain maintenance on batteries to make them live up to their full potential and life expectancy...A nice charger with a desulfation cycle...And a lot of knowledge on how this stuff works will only save you a ton of cash on useless shit you don't need.

You put a deep cycle battery under your hood...The biggest one that will fit...And you put the biggest damn high output alternator you can under the hood.

Alternator....Alternator.....Alternator....When the car is running and your alternator has enough output to keep your system amply fed, your 350$ 31 series 80lb battery is about as useful as an 80lb paper weight.

Ok for all you who think well then why do people have 10-20 battery banks...Well because you can only fit so many alternators under the hood, and for 20-30,000 watt systems they can easily pull 2,000-4,000 amps of current no way 5 350a alts can keep up so you then need a battery bank, yes....Not to mention it takes horsepower to turn those damn things and try putting 5 350a alts in a stock civic...Yea you'll need batteries.

For a 2,000 watt system on music...Get a damn $250 220a alternator that bolts directly in your stock alt's spot...And get a nice YellowTop or similar deep cycle battery for the stock battery location...And have fun bumping. If it's not enough and your amp is still experiencing voltage drop...GET A BIGGER ALTERNATOR!

Hope this helped someone,

-Steve

Edited March 27, 2011 by AudioFiend