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Whoa Sir.

It seems you have a long way to go before you really understand what's going on.

Slow down a little. If you don't know exactly what's going on, and you let a shop do all your work, maybe you need to continue to let them. Also, talk everything over with them about deciding a amp, and let them install it.

If your willing to learn I'm sure somebody will help you. But it seems you need to understand quiet a bit before you run into problems.

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Whoa Sir.

It seems you have a long way to go before you really understand what's going on.

Slow down a little. If you don't know exactly what's going on, and you let a shop do all your work, maybe you need to continue to let them. Also, talk everything over with them about deciding a amp, and let them install it.

If your willing to learn I'm sure somebody will help you. But it seems you need to understand quiet a bit before you run into problems.

I am having the shop install it. But all I needed to know was what amp I should get that wa the original reason for this post. None of the shops around me could tell me anything about dc so I read bout them on the Internet and heard my friends lvl4 15" and decided I'd get all the parts and then have the shop install it like I did with the last set. But one shop by me keeps pushin me to buy powerbass xl 12" for what I wanna do but I haven't ever heard the subs and the amps box and subs would be between 600-800. I looked at their specs compared to the lvl 4 and they weren't as loud. Then the other shop tells me I should buy jl cuz that's what they sell. They sell jl and soundstream. But they said I should buy two w6, but I don't have 450 to spend on each sub. Plus they still aren't as loud as the dc.

Basically I just wanna know what I'm gonna need to get these subs to work the way I want them to.

So far I've been told to avoid the second battery to get a 2 farad capacitor (by the car shop). To get the subs. Then I'm gonna need to know if I'm gonna have to build or have a thicker box made for them, because the w7 the one shop tried to sell me at first needed to have a thicker box made for them. And I need to know what size amp to run to these subs.

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You do not need a second battery to run 2000 watts.

Do not get a capacitor though it is not a battery replacement and can actually do more damage than good to your electrical system.

A sound system is more than just some subs and an amp...and if you want to be successful you have to be willing to learn. You should read some of the stickies on this forum to find out information about electrical systems, sub boxes, and setting amplifiers. Also in I think general audio there is a sticky that has car audio terms defined.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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Whoa Sir.

It seems you have a long way to go before you really understand what's going on.

Slow down a little. If you don't know exactly what's going on, and you let a shop do all your work, maybe you need to continue to let them. Also, talk everything over with them about deciding a amp, and let them install it.

If your willing to learn I'm sure somebody will help you. But it seems you need to understand quiet a bit before you run into problems.

I am having the shop install it. But all I needed to know was what amp I should get that wa the original reason for this post. None of the shops around me could tell me anything about dc so I read bout them on the Internet and heard my friends lvl4 15" and decided I'd get all the parts and then have the shop install it like I did with the last set. But one shop by me keeps pushin me to buy powerbass xl 12" for what I wanna do but I haven't ever heard the subs and the amps box and subs would be between 600-800. I looked at their specs compared to the lvl 4 and they weren't as loud. Then the other shop tells me I should buy jl cuz that's what they sell. They sell jl and soundstream. But they said I should buy two w6, but I don't have 450 to spend on each sub. Plus they still aren't as loud as the dc.

Basically I just wanna know what I'm gonna need to get these subs to work the way I want them to.

So far I've been told to avoid the second battery to get a 2 farad capacitor (by the car shop). To get the subs. Then I'm gonna need to know if I'm gonna have to build or have a thicker box made for them, because the w7 the one shop tried to sell me at first needed to have a thicker box made for them. And I need to know what size amp to run to these subs.

Hope the shop doesn't burn up your car. Anyway then refer to my other posts get 2 D1 LVL4s and a DC 2.0k. It'll run the subs at RMS and the shop or you will probably clip them to shit and blow them but on the off chance they don't then itll work how you want them to

Edited by bumonskateboard6

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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You do not need a second battery to run 2000 watts.

Do not get a capacitor though it is not a battery replacement and can actually do more damage than good to your electrical system.

A sound system is more than just some subs and an amp...and if you want to be successful you have to be willing to learn. You should read some of the stickies on this forum to find out information about electrical systems, sub boxes, and setting amplifiers. Also in I think general audio there is a sticky that has car audio terms defined.

The car shops and everyone around where I'm from has a second battery and or a capacitor for their systems. And most aren't even as big as the lvl4 system I wanna get. Cuz there headlights dim and stuff. Right now mine dim just with the system that I have. And I'm just wondering but what damage would the capacitor do to my electrical system and they said I need the capacitor cuz I would have the 2000 watt amp for my subs and whatever it is I have for my door speakers. And what are the stickies you were talking about. And where do I find the definitions for the terms I need to know?

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Whoa Sir.

It seems you have a long way to go before you really understand what's going on.

Slow down a little. If you don't know exactly what's going on, and you let a shop do all your work, maybe you need to continue to let them. Also, talk everything over with them about deciding a amp, and let them install it.

If your willing to learn I'm sure somebody will help you. But it seems you need to understand quiet a bit before you run into problems.

I am having the shop install it. But all I needed to know was what amp I should get that wa the original reason for this post. None of the shops around me could tell me anything about dc so I read bout them on the Internet and heard my friends lvl4 15" and decided I'd get all the parts and then have the shop install it like I did with the last set. But one shop by me keeps pushin me to buy powerbass xl 12" for what I wanna do but I haven't ever heard the subs and the amps box and subs would be between 600-800. I looked at their specs compared to the lvl 4 and they weren't as loud. Then the other shop tells me I should buy jl cuz that's what they sell. They sell jl and soundstream. But they said I should buy two w6, but I don't have 450 to spend on each sub. Plus they still aren't as loud as the dc.

Basically I just wanna know what I'm gonna need to get these subs to work the way I want them to.

So far I've been told to avoid the second battery to get a 2 farad capacitor (by the car shop). To get the subs. Then I'm gonna need to know if I'm gonna have to build or have a thicker box made for them, because the w7 the one shop tried to sell me at first needed to have a thicker box made for them. And I need to know what size amp to run to these subs.

Hope the shop doesn't burn up your car. Anyway then refer to my other posts get 2 D1 LVL4s and a DC 2.0k. It'll run the subs at RMS and the shop or you will probably clip them to shit and blow them but on the off chance they don't then itll work how you want them to

What does the D1 stand for. And what is clipping?

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Your in way over your head, and honestly can't pick up proper equipment if you don't understand half the things being posted in this thread.

You need to start reading, all the questions you have, has been answered multiple times. And we can't sit here all day explaing every detail. Its up to you if you want to take the time and learn it own your own.

Its fine to ask questions, but your asking them all. You need to gether info, then come back and ask questions.

That's about the best advise I can give.

Also, how respectful is the shop you use to install your ? If they barely know more than you, it may not be wise to let them install a higher power setup.(I'm not sure your ready for it either)

So if you want to do things right, take time and research and gain the knowledge, it will pay up greatly in the end.

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You do not need a second battery to run 2000 watts.

Do not get a capacitor though it is not a battery replacement and can actually do more damage than good to your electrical system.

A sound system is more than just some subs and an amp...and if you want to be successful you have to be willing to learn. You should read some of the stickies on this forum to find out information about electrical systems, sub boxes, and setting amplifiers. Also in I think general audio there is a sticky that has car audio terms defined.

The car shops and everyone around where I'm from has a second battery and or a capacitor for their systems. And most aren't even as big as the lvl4 system I wanna get. Cuz there headlights dim and stuff. Right now mine dim just with the system that I have. And I'm just wondering but what damage would the capacitor do to my electrical system and they said I need the capacitor cuz I would have the 2000 watt amp for my subs and whatever it is I have for my door speakers. And what are the stickies you were talking about. And where do I find the definitions for the terms I need to know?

You might want to slow down a bit. You have a lot of questions and it looks like you're looking for simple answers.

Remember, car audio shops do not have your best interests in mind. They have a store to run, so they will sell what they got. It's up to you to make sure you get what you want, don't let them tell you what to get. Do your homework before whipping out the checkbook. It only makes sense that they would try to sell you W6's... The selling technique of "snubbing" is very powerful and most uneducated consumers fall for it hook, line, and sinker.

For your electrical, search for "big 3 upgrade" both here and on youtube. Watch a few videos and take notes, most of these guys really know what they're talking about. If you do this, you won't need a second battery as long as you run large enough wire, 1/0 gauge will do. If your main battery is more than a year or two old, consider upgrading.

Stay away from capacitors. While it seems that they solve the problem of dimming headlights, they put undue strain on your electrical system, the problem is better solved by a big 3 upgrade.

Whatever amp you get, make sure you have the gains adjusted with an o-scope (oscilloscope). If they tell you that you don't need to use a o-scope to set your gains, pound sand and find someone who will. This will save you hundreds in shredded subs. This is more important than how many watts you choose! DO THIS AND YOU WILL NEVER NEED TO KNOW WHAT CLIPPING IS.

Look at the subcategories in the forums here. The threads at the top are the "stickies" meaning they are stuck to the top of the list. They contain frequently asked questions and basic MUST KNOW info.

There are generally two types of competition for SPL... Ground pounders and burp machines (these are just lay terms but people will know what you're talking about). It sounds like you belong to the former of the two, as burping is really technical... as they say, it's an acquired taste. Search "spl burp" on youtube and you'll see what it is and if you want to go in that direction.

Lastly, contact one of the competition sanctioning bodies in your area, USACi, MECA, IASCA. In a lot of areas one may be stronger than the other, but if you go to a few shows and talk to the seasoned pros you will learn tons.

Edited by srp365

2007 Pacifica
Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud.

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