skittlesRgood Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 roll your burps and imp rise will keep the amp out of protect. do you have the stock alt in still? if so, you do not have nearly enough electrical for .5ohm. definitely need to upgrade that 4awg to 1/0awg. i mean, why restrict current? 45* along every edge is not ideal. you want them in a way to shoot air out of the port, not just throw it around and keep it out of corners. some times 45*s hurt your score. and a 45* is not a brace. droping a class is up to you. NEVER just say "it's ok, trust me". i cant tell you how many times i have said that, or seen some one say that and they were VERY wrong. so measure the port and tell us the dimensions. if you're right, you're right. if you are wrong, we can catch it. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outsideshot23 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 roll your burps and imp rise will keep the amp out of protect. do you have the stock alt in still? if so, you do not have nearly enough electrical for .5ohm. definitely need to upgrade that 4awg to 1/0awg. i mean, why restrict current? 45* along every edge is not ideal. you want them in a way to shoot air out of the port, not just throw it around and keep it out of corners. some times 45*s hurt your score. and a 45* is not a brace. droping a class is up to you. NEVER just say "it's ok, trust me". i cant tell you how many times i have said that, or seen some one say that and they were VERY wrong. so measure the port and tell us the dimensions. if you're right, you're right. if you are wrong, we can catch it. ^^^^^^^^^^ Quote Vote for May SOTM!!!! uild log---------> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/104017-sierra-on-26s-20000-watts-daily-pics/ Kenwood Excelon HU 4 18" Atomic APX 4 RD D9s 4 DC Power 270xp alts 9 xs d1400 batts Team XSPower Team SecondSkin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 droping a class is up to you. NEVER just say "it's ok, trust me". i cant tell you how many times i have said that, or seen some one say that and they were VERY wrong. so measure the port and tell us the dimensions. if you're right, you're right. if you are wrong, we can catch it. very well said Quote -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 First, get rid of the distro block and run 1/0 from Front battery or alternator directly to the optima in the rear. Then run your amp off the battery. Quote 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 My friend and I have been working on an spl build to take to a competition coming up. We have an Audiopipe 30001D with a 15" FI BTL. Its in a 93' mazda mx-3. The box is 5 cubes tuned at 45hz. The car peaks at 50hz. The box has 45 degree bracing's in each corner. We have 1/0 running from the battery to a distro block, then 4 gauge to an optima red top then 4 gauge to amp. We are replacing the speaker wire with either 10 or 8 gauge. We also have been told to paint the inside of the box and silicone it. The amp was run at 2 ohms and we are considering doing a half ohm burp. The length from distro block to battery is about 3 feet then another 3 feet to the amp so theres about 6 feet of four gauge. The box will be wrapped in duck tape also. We hooked it up to a termlab today and got a 146.5 in the kick panel with driver door open and sunroof open. when everything was sealed we did around a 143.8. Questions: Will the audiopipe handle a .5ohm burp? Wiring the sub to .5ohm isnt a problem but how would we plug the wires into the audiopipe? Is there anything else we can do to gain db's? I'm sorry, but asking questions like this with the setup you've listed, don't coincide. Here's problems I see already.. Not enough information: We need dimensions of your box and port. Most first attempts at SPL setups get this wrong. Also firing direction and orientations. Tuned too low for an SPL setup: You say it peaks at 50, but that's a result of your tuning. SPL setups should be higher. Chances are, your port is too small: See above 4 gauge wire? Really?: Although the runs are short, you are considering a .5ohm burp. Upgrade. Wrapping a box in "duck tape" (try to flame me): Why did you wrap the box? Because somebody told you to? Please help us help you. I'm not trying to be a dick, but from what I read, you're pretty confident in yourself and only want three answers that really don't apply unless we know what we're working with. Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewMartin Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) My friend and I have been working on an spl build to take to a competition coming up. We have an Audiopipe 30001D with a 15" FI BTL. Its in a 93' mazda mx-3. The box is 5 cubes tuned at 45hz. The car peaks at 50hz. The box has 45 degree bracing's in each corner. We have 1/0 running from the battery to a distro block, then 4 gauge to an optima red top then 4 gauge to amp. We are replacing the speaker wire with either 10 or 8 gauge. We also have been told to paint the inside of the box and silicone it. The amp was run at 2 ohms and we are considering doing a half ohm burp. The length from distro block to battery is about 3 feet then another 3 feet to the amp so theres about 6 feet of four gauge. The box will be wrapped in duck tape also. We hooked it up to a termlab today and got a 146.5 in the kick panel with driver door open and sunroof open. when everything was sealed we did around a 143.8. Questions: Will the audiopipe handle a .5ohm burp? Wiring the sub to .5ohm isnt a problem but how would we plug the wires into the audiopipe? Is there anything else we can do to gain db's? I'm sorry, but asking questions like this with the setup you've listed, don't coincide. Here's problems I see already.. Not enough information: We need dimensions of your box and port. Most first attempts at SPL setups get this wrong. Also firing direction and orientations. Tuned too low for an SPL setup: You say it peaks at 50, but that's a result of your tuning. SPL setups should be higher. Chances are, your port is too small: See above 4 gauge wire? Really?: Although the runs are short, you are considering a .5ohm burp. Upgrade. Wrapping a box in "duck tape" (try to flame me): Why did you wrap the box? Because somebody told you to? Please help us help you. I'm not trying to be a dick, but from what I read, you're pretty confident in yourself and only want three answers that really don't apply unless we know what we're working with. I'll try to answer your questions the best I can, then further explain our situation in more detail. We need dimensions of your box and port. Most first attempts at SPL setups get this wrong. Also firing direction and orientations. Box is 5 cubes. 45hz. The internal height is 16.25 inches. The port is 5 inches wide. Port area then comes out to be 81.25 sqin. This equals 16.25 sqin of port/cuft. The sub faces up, and the port sideways. The box is a very tight fit in the cargo area of the mx-3. There is no space between the back and front walls. There is a recessed pocket of space that the port fires into. The same pocket on the opposite side houses the optima redtop. Tuned too low for an SPL setup: You say it peaks at 50, but that's a result of your tuning. SPL setups should be higher. The car's peak frequency was found using a sealed box, not the result of any tuning. Ideally, the sealed box would have taken up the same amount of space in the cargo area as my SPL box, but that wasn't the case. This probably threw off the "true" peak freq. for the car. To what extent is another story. Chances are, your port is too small: Possibly. When I designing, I was under the impression that the bigger the box, the more efficient it becomes. Because of this, I put net cuft. first, and port area second. The idea was to use up as much volume as possible. The result of this is 16.25 sqin. of port per cuft. On a related note, our local installer said we should have used a smaller box. This surprises me since the response curve on winisd shows more output with a larger box. 4 gauge wire? Really?: Although the runs are short, you are considering a .5ohm burp. Upgrade. Agreed. We weren't considering burping at .5 ohms until just recently. If the electrical can't handle it, we will make due with what we have now. Theoretically, the 3000d puts out 3000w at 2 ohms and the 1500d puts out 3000w at .5 ohms. What is the difference in 3000w at 2 ohms vs. .5 ohms? Keep in mind we had no problems running the 3000d at 2 ohms. Wrapping a box in "duck tape" (try to flame me): Why did you wrap the box? Because somebody told you to? Yes. That's exactly what we did. We wrapped the box in duct tape under the advice of a local stereo shop installer who said that he's seen dB gains everytime. In no way do I want the answers I expect. I'm probably way off in some aspects of this build, but that's OK as long as I can learn from my mistakes. roll your burps and imp rise will keep the amp out of protect. do you have the stock alt in still? if so, you do not have nearly enough electrical for .5ohm. definitely need to upgrade that 4awg to 1/0awg. i mean, why restrict current? 45* along every edge is not ideal. you want them in a way to shoot air out of the port, not just throw it around and keep it out of corners. some times 45*s hurt your score. and a 45* is not a brace. droping a class is up to you. NEVER just say "it's ok, trust me". i cant tell you how many times i have said that, or seen some one say that and they were VERY wrong. so measure the port and tell us the dimensions. if you're right, you're right. if you are wrong, we can catch it. Based on the design above, where would you place the 45s? Edited May 12, 2011 by MatthewMartin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Build, test, test, test, and test some more. Repeat as many times as possible Quote 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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