Box building & subwoofer mounting hardware

[doug118]

I'm looking for something I can pick up at Lowes or Home Depot. Links would be great!

Edited May 22, 2011 by doug118

[iceman1575]

I'm looking for something I can pick up at Lowes or Home Depot. Links would be great!

For the box itself, some sort of wood glue would work, but get good stuff. I used Elmers Wood Glue on my box, and it kinda...fell apart...literally. I've heard Gorilla Glue works, which I may try next. As for holding the box together, screws is usually the way to go (I did mine with brads, but we didn't have screws at the time.. )

As for mounting, as told with lighter subs screws usually work fine as long as you have enough of a baffle to support them.

[Autruche]

For mounting subs the proper way to do it would be to set the subs in the cutouts and mark out screw holes with a marker.

Get a set of tee nuts. they look like a little inverted forstner bit. Get either 1/4 or M6 sizes, and get matching screw headed bolts to secure the sub in with.

Drill out the holes in the baffle that you marked out with the appropriate sized bit, and install the tee nuts on the inside part of the baffle with a hammer.

You may have to drill the screw holes out in the subs in order to fit the bolts through though.

tee nuts: http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture97/kuntai/product1-s.jpg

Screw head bolts: http://m2.sourcingmap.com/smapimg/en/n/09c/25mm-length-brass-phillips-pan-head-bolt-machine-screw-47246n.jpg

http://img.weiku.com/IMG/2010/10/12/8/product/cap_head_screw75528_s.jpg

As far as box building: Make sure you glue all joints with real wood glue, not that liquid nails bs. Liquid nails is a construction adhesive, not a wood glue. A real wood glue soaks into the wood and when it dries properly it should be stronger than the wood itself, and you should use at least 3/4 inch thick wood.

Use screws sparingly. The screws should really only be there to hold the box together as the glue dries. A screw every six inches is fine. 1-5/8 inch - 2 inch long screws are a good size to use.

Predrill EVERY screw hole to keep the wood from splitting. Corner clapms can be extremely useful for holding two pieces together while you are predrilling to avoid being off-center on a hole. A countersink bit is preferable for predrilling as it will drill in a larger hole after the bit is all the way in so the screw head gets sunk into the wood.

For drawing the cutouts out it helps to use a T-square to make sure all of your lines come out to perfect 90 degree angles. A T-square that is 4 feet long is preferable.

Coutersinking bit: http://i2.quinbyhardware.com/6987630.jpg

Corner clamps: http://cdn.dickblick.com/items/351/17/35117-1090-3ww-l.jpg

T-square: http://images.yourdictionary.com/images/main/A4tsquar.jpg

Sorry for rambling. You probably know all of this already but I just got into a serious thing there for a second, lol

Edited May 22, 2011 by Autruche

[doug118]

That was probably the most useful response I've ever seen. Thanks!

[doug118]

Which glue should I go with??

http://www.lowes.com/pd_88042-18562-62000_0__?productId=3121069&Ntt=wood+glue&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNs%3Dp_product_price|1%26Ntt%3Dwood%2Bglue&facetInfo=

http://www.lowes.com/pd_627-970-1413_0__?productId=1094969&Ntt=wood+glue&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNs%3Dp_product_price|1%26Ntt%3Dwood%2Bglue&facetInfo=

[blownengine]

I use Gorilla and it has never let me down. Never used Titebond but alot of people like it. They will be practically the same.