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Day 2 more problems arriving.

Ok same problem as yesterday still the subwoofer burps when i turn it off.. but that is the least of my problems right now. My subs are really REALLY quite and not producing the bass they were before i made the changes.

Changes consist of....

-new positive and negative wire from 2nd battery to amps

-Replaced 4 gauge battery grounds with 0 gauge battery grounds.

-Carpeted the box.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKGLnQ3h0yE

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Something is still broken.. i re did the ground location, re did a terminal that was soldered. and a bunch of other crap.. im out of ideas someone please help lol. Do you think the sub is blown? Its not out of phase i tested it with a D battery and they both went up.

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What kind of RE Audio subs are they and are you sure they are wired with the right polarity? Usually a stupid question but it could happen. When I say that I mean are they both wired pos. on sub to pos. on amp and neg. on sub to neg. on amp? The subs have to be wired the exact same, if they are opposite then the waves cancel each other out and you hear almost nothing.

1991 Accord

Audioque HDC3 15" (Copper)<--Sub

Audioque HDC3 15" (Copper)<--Backup Sub

Crescendo BC2000D<--Amp

Big 3

1/0 Knu<--Wiring

Eonon 3.5" DVD<--Headunit

Infinity Kappa Perfect<--Mids & Highs

2nd Stock 80Amp alt.

1991 Mustang 5.0

Too many mods

(Sold)

1991 240sx SR20 Red Top

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(Sold)

2004 GTO

Just starting mods

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The upgrades you did should not effect performance but increase performance (well all except the carpeting of the box which usually looses a few tenths of a db on the term-lab).

None the less none of these things you did should cause a woofer to break.

Which leads me to believe you did something without knowing it, or on accident and didnt notice.

Starting from most likely to least likely:

*you could of bumped the single/master/slave (switch which would result in little output if the amp is in master and is looking for the slave that is not there, or it is slave).

*you plugged in the rca cords into the "passthru" of the amp, instead of the input.

*you plugged the rca cords for the highs amp into the sub amp and the headunit crossover is limiting the lows from being played thru the amp.

*you could of rewired the subs in phase, but at a much higher impedance (resulting in huge power loss).

*you could of bumped the Infrasonic Filter (if it was previously off, and depending on your LPF setting it is resulting in very little output).

*the speakers could be wired out of phase (tho they look in phase from the video).

Should be a decent, easy, fast, list of troubleshooting tips for you to try, and more then likely it will be one of those things in the list.

As for the the pop sound in your other video.

turn on/off pops are normally causes from a delay on the remote circuit of the headunit.

To test it, I would disconnect the remote wire from your amp, and jump a wire from your amps Positive power input terminal to your remote terminal so the amp turns on, then remove it so it turns off. If the pop is no longer there you know you have an issue someplace between your indash radio and the end of your remote wire.

I have also seen this happen when people mistake the blue and blue white wires on the radio harness, and hook their amp remote turn-on to the power antenna wire instead of the remote wire, and when you turn the radio off the power antenna wire stays on for a little longer to lower the power antenna. So what ends up happening is the radio is off, but yet the power antenna wire is still on resulting in your amps to be on a little longer with no input signal coming from the rca's, resulting in a pop once the amp finally turns off.

Edited by Audiofanaticz

 

 

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The upgrades you did should not effect performance but increase performance (well all except the carpeting of the box which usually looses a few tenths of a db on the term-lab).

None the less none of these things you did should cause a woofer to break.

Which leads me to believe you did something without knowing it, or on accident and didnt notice.

Will check this too thanks :)

Starting from most likely to least likely:

*you could of bumped the single/master/slave (switch which would result in little output if the amp is in master and is looking for the slave that is not there, or it is slave).

*you plugged in the rca cords into the "passthru" of the amp, instead of the input.

*you plugged the rca cords for the highs amp into the sub amp and the headunit crossover is limiting the lows from being played thru the amp.

*you could of rewired the subs in phase, but at a much higher impedance (resulting in huge power loss).

*you could of bumped the Infrasonic Filter (if it was previously off, and depending on your LPF setting it is resulting in very little output).

*the speakers could be wired out of phase (tho they look in phase from the video).

Should be a decent, easy, fast, list of troubleshooting tips for you to try, and more then likely it will be one of those things in the list.

As for the the pop sound in your other video.

turn on/off pops are normally causes from a delay on the remote circuit of the headunit.

To test it, I would disconnect the remote wire from your amp, and jump a wire from your amps Positive power input terminal to your remote terminal so the amp turns on, then remove it so it turns off. If the pop is no longer there you know you have an issue someplace between your indash radio and the end of your remote wire.

I have also seen this happen when people mistake the blue and blue white wires on the radio harness, and hook their amp remote turn-on to the power antenna wire instead of the remote wire, and when you turn the radio off the power antenna wire stays on for a little longer to lower the power antenna. So what ends up happening is the radio is off, but yet the power antenna wire is still on resulting in your amps to be on a little longer with no input signal coming from the rca's, resulting in a pop once the amp finally turns off.

Wow thanks for all the options of things i could of done wrong, i will be checking all of these. Thanks!

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What I noticed are the subwoofers aren't doing a complete sine. They go up and thats it theres no downward excursion. It seems like a phase or adjustment problem. That doesn't look right. They should be wanging both ways off that rockford.

Grand Cherokee

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DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils

Pioneer deh4200ub

Pioneer 3-ways

Pioneer Tweeters

Pioneer GM-D9500F

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Clarion Equalizer

Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga

Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga

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The upgrades you did should not effect performance but increase performance (well all except the carpeting of the box which usually looses a few tenths of a db on the term-lab).

None the less none of these things you did should cause a woofer to break.

Which leads me to believe you did something without knowing it, or on accident and didnt notice.

Starting from most likely to least likely:

*you could of bumped the single/master/slave (switch which would result in little output if the amp is in master and is looking for the slave that is not there, or it is slave).

*you plugged in the rca cords into the "passthru" of the amp, instead of the input.

*you plugged the rca cords for the highs amp into the sub amp and the headunit crossover is limiting the lows from being played thru the amp.

*you could of rewired the subs in phase, but at a much higher impedance (resulting in huge power loss).

*you could of bumped the Infrasonic Filter (if it was previously off, and depending on your LPF setting it is resulting in very little output).

*the speakers could be wired out of phase (tho they look in phase from the video).

Should be a decent, easy, fast, list of troubleshooting tips for you to try, and more then likely it will be one of those things in the list.

As for the the pop sound in your other video.

turn on/off pops are normally causes from a delay on the remote circuit of the headunit.

To test it, I would disconnect the remote wire from your amp, and jump a wire from your amps Positive power input terminal to your remote terminal so the amp turns on, then remove it so it turns off. If the pop is no longer there you know you have an issue someplace between your indash radio and the end of your remote wire.

I have also seen this happen when people mistake the blue and blue white wires on the radio harness, and hook their amp remote turn-on to the power antenna wire instead of the remote wire, and when you turn the radio off the power antenna wire stays on for a little longer to lower the power antenna. So what ends up happening is the radio is off, but yet the power antenna wire is still on resulting in your amps to be on a little longer with no input signal coming from the rca's, resulting in a pop once the amp finally turns off.

Ok none of these worked.. gay sauce. Im going to replace the 4 gauge from alt to battery to 0 gauge. see if that causes the problem? Also i took the whole car apart and check all wires/re routed all wires to safer area's where there is no chance of being pinched. Will get back to forum later.

Superchaged AMD yes i unhooked the battery, but no i didnt lose the Head unit settings.

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Ok once again ive exhaused all ideas that people have thrown at me... this is a fucking nightmare right now.

I checked RCA's and where they go. I re did the grounds and sanded the spot down with an electric sander. The subs are not out of phase. I'm so confused on what to do...

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Maybe rip everything out and start from square one? I know that will take a lot of time, but perhaps worth it. Ive done it a few times changing systems... lol

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2004 Bagged Trailblazer

(4)18" Sundown Nsv3s
(4) Taramps HD10000s, Taramps DSP3000, Lanzar opti 250x2, AB 100x4
(2)DC power SP 270s, (14)XS Power d3100s, (1)d6500

 

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