DB DON'S Blazer (the pictures)

[dB Don]

More infO on the hybrid mix please.

Can I buy some?

Yes there is actually a form of it sold, I never bought any before so I can't attest to whether its good or not but basically the concept is the same as regular concrete. You use the same portland concrete powder, you use crushed semi round Lava rock for replacement of the larger and medium size agregate(stone, polystyrene beads(small to medium 1mm to 2mm, and a good handful of Fibreglass mat mixed in but not too much or the mix will be really weak. When your mixing it together the beads will want to come to the top so you have to make a dryer mix and the mat also holds it somewhat in place. You can mix sand in the mix but be sure not to use too much, you want to keep it light. If your confident you can experiment with mixing Resin into it as well, it will depend on the weather but it will help or hinder depending on your mix. I think it would work fine without the resin so always try small test batches first to get a good feel for how it sets up.

If you can't find the beads thats fine it should work with just the lava rock, small amounts of sand and Fibreglass mat as your agregate. Just be sure to use a "slightly" stronger mixture(more powder) and just wet it just enough to get everything wet, you want it to be at a consistency that you can barely pour.

I wouldn't recommend this to anyone who has not done concrete, if thats the case get a spare bag and make cake pan sized slabs to practice.

You should be at approx 20-40 lbs per cubic foot where regular concrete you would be at over 90 lbs per cubic foot of concrete.

You still need to use anchors, rebar, concrete mesh or screws put only half way into what your concreting so the concrete can adhere to your area and not come out in a mold or crack.

[dB Don]

Or box design.

Can I buy one?

I don't sell box designs but theres alot of people here that can draw one up for you. I tried the google one but I couldn't figure it out.

[dwright27]

Don do you have any pics of before, during and after you put the mix onto your floor? Also, how did you maintain the bolts that hold the seats down? Did you just make new one in the concrete?

[dwright27]

Nevermind. I see you took the seats off the tracks!! Awesome thinking, did you cover the floor in carpet or vinyl or anything?

[alphasig293]

Man ooops damn honey could you wipe that up, I just came a little, haha, damn this thing is bad ass, I would love to sit in it. Wish I could find someone to do my doors like that. Nice build, def will be watching this one. Great job guys

[Guest grim83]

Man ooops damn honey could you wipe that up, I just came a little, haha, damn this thing is bad ass, I would love to sit in it. Wish I could find someone to do my doors like that. Nice build, def will be watching this one. Great job guys

serious ur doors are gorgeous

[CaptainPooPyPantz]

LOVE IT !!! ABSOLUTELY CRAZY!!!

[Quiet]

That is the most beautiful port I have ever seen.

[dB Don]

OK so the doors are really easy, basically you take your raw door right down to the metal. Then you clean and duct tape it up and maybe protect the moving parts by duct taping a cardboard over it or something. Just so you have that 1/8" of space for the moving parts to operate without rubbing etc..You can see the area where the rods are theres material between the rod and duct tape. Also the flat parts of the door are marked with the door CLOSED and you make a mark with marker to let you know where the absolutely closest you can build to get a perfect fit with door closed. See the marker in the pic below, the material spacing the duct tape away from the latch rods, and the start to the frame.

Now I know alot of you might say "why not just make a flat backing from wood" Well there is a simple answer and that is that not all doors are completely flat to allow a flat sheet of wood. Also the depth gained and less weight of the Fibreglass has so many more advantages. Such as, it contours the steel of the door and uses it as strength as well as giving the inside of the enclosure an uneven surfaces to break up any chance of standing waves.

In this next picture you see the door and handle framed out with the first layer of resin applied. As you can see in the top right corner of the door you see how a flat sheet of wood would have not worked anyway without alot of chiseling of the back of it to fit properly.

Here is the 4th and final later of mat applied.

Here you see the mid/tweet panel suspended by ordinary back strapping. Its very easy to mount and force into position because it bends and it has decent strength to hold it for the cloth wrap.

In this next picture you can see how I used the dash to help form the door panel. You see that I protected the dash from resin and then wrapped the door panel in cloth and applied resin.

I used a 1/8" material again over the dash where it contacted the cloth to give me a small gap between the door and dash and then protected the dash from resin with duct tape. Put the door panel on the door in its final position then closed the door so it would harden and create that seamless transition with the dash.

This picture you can see the panel is actually quite thin for what it is and does not stick out too far. There is also approx .8 cubic feet of space per door. That gives me lots of room to reinforce inside and tweak the enclosure to match the other door and rest of the system.

This last picture you see the door getting some outside reinforcement because you can never get the inside perfect with such small spaces.

[dB Don]

I forgot to add that the parts I used to do these doors are.

-3 gallons of resin

-2 large packs of mat

-5 brushes

-2 yards of material(poly Lycra)

- scrap wood(everyone has this lying around)

- small amount of bondo

-10 backstraps

- screws

- roll of duct tape(painters tape will do also)

- staples for holding material to back.

So you see it does not cost too much to do your doors. I would say I spent $350-$400 to do both doors plus my time.