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Another thing you may have to consider with 0.5ohm on the amp is distortion, it will raise a fair amount, now whether it will be acceptable or audible, not sure. And then you'll have impedance rise, so when your doing your burps and so forth, you won't have 0.5ohm 3kw for very long. And your highest impedance rise will be near your enclosure tuning, IIRC.

nice info, i got some experience in imp rise and how to tune box for the system. i will try to make the box as good as possible, to do more "do's" than "donts".

as ive heard this volvo has temperature sensitive alternator, so it is giving only 13.75VDC now when its +30C outside. i gotta check how to raise it up for the AGM battery that needs 14.5 to 15 volts to load.

090620112886%20%28Custom%29.jpg

theres my relay.

its function is to seperate the front battery from the back battery while car is not running.

as i got normal battery at front with 12.3V voltage and at back AGM with 12.9V voltage, the back battery will try to load the front battery if they are connected when the alternator is not running.

090620112887%20%28Custom%29.jpg

heres my powerplant!

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it fits!

090620112889%20%28Custom%29.jpg

not a long way to run cables :D

090620112892%20%28Custom%29.jpg

grounding at the back goes here

090620112893%20%28Custom%29.jpg

and here

more to come :)

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making room for cables:

090620112894%20%28Custom%29.jpg

gonna cut those pieces off, not one big hole, but few smaller ones.

090620112895%20%28Custom%29.jpg

its not pwetty but it works!

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that should do it!

dunno if i'm gonna connect all 6 cables / side or just 3-4.

if they fit, i will connect em all.

tho i gotta do some rubber surroundings around the whole so the sharp metal wont cut my wires.

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Big 'ole battery and nice copper buss bars :D

I know a few people have been able to use diodes to raise their stock alternators voltage.

Here's some reads about it:

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/alt_mod.html

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f92/how-raise-your-alternator-voltage-25209/

I think there might even be a thread about it on here.

sighl.jpg
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idk about that relay man. its a standard 12v relay only designed for 30-40 amps max. youve got a 0 gauge wire and a 200 amp fuse after it. id say get a real battery isolator designed for such an application or just run both straight without the relay. that just seems like a hazard to me.

Team NWSPL

baaudio Build Log

2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough

4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k

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I'm thinking of finding a station wagon to build up now, I really like this build

DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGER

Currently Own
4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option

2 - DC 5k

lvl 4 motor

lvl 2 motor

On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said:

this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick.

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Tinted windows! :drinks:

How hard was it doing it yourself? I think if I tried that I'd get bubbles everywhere and end up tearing it all off.

i got 60 picture guide how to tint your own windows solo. but due SMD forum's rules you can post like 8 pictures / post. so i only post link to my guide at Maxboom.fi, you should see from pictures how you can do it yourself.

it wasn't that hard, the end result is not perfect, but no bubbles.

i've done now 5-6 cars and everytime i rip the backwindow atleast once and start all over again.

key part is: calm down. use wool gloves to settle the film down, to move the most of the bubbles(your hand has grease and it will stick in the film, wool is perfect).

use ALOT of water with 2-4 drops of soap, just to let the film glide on your window. was windows well before doing anything and vacuum your car from most of the dust in there. backwindow has to cut into 2-5 pieces almost everytime, do this by first cutting the film as perfect as possible from the outside, then put it inside and wipe the most of the soap away underneath the film.

then cut a perfect line horizontal just above the heatingline. this cut must be from good to perfect so it won't show inside or outside. 8)

here is the link for pictures:

http://maxboom.fi/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?26930.43

idk about that relay man. its a standard 12v relay only designed for 30-40 amps max. youve got a 0 gauge wire and a 200 amp fuse after it. id say get a real battery isolator designed for such an application or just run both straight without the relay. that just seems like a hazard to me.

it is a "power relay" 70A, youre correct there that the 200A is way too big, i gotta get 60A fure into it, and get bigger wires from front battery to the relay so the fuse will pop before my relay starts to melt.

my alternator is a stock BOSCH 55A so that 70A relay can handle it.

one shop in finland sells there "battery isolators" 70A version costs 25€, and it is identical to my relay that cost in everyday shop 11€. same manufacturer etc, so the audioshop is selling same item for a MUCH higher price. thanks for your concern, m8!

I'm thinking of finding a station wagon to build up now, I really like this build

:dancing:

thanks!

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this car is propably the easiest car to install audio in.

everything has so much space, you can stick yout hand under the steeringwheel's plate and wave yourself from the hole ontop of the dashboard.

not to mention under the hood. you can fit hobbits in it whitout breaking a sweat!

updating this beast again :D

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started to pull the wiring.

6x 0awg per side and they FIT!

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checkd the amp how the cables fit.

but i don't feel good about that, the negative wires lays over the positive copper bar and i gotta pull down the cables to make em fit.

i gotta rethink about this so it looks good and sounds great!

after these pictures it started to rain

:shtf:

all my stuff were lying around the ground. i got like seconds to collect all inside the car before the intense rain.

more today, i hope. i got no garage so if sun shines i do stuff, if it rains i sit inside planning what to do next.

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