tonedeaf Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 i dont know too much about the honda engines... im looking for a new car & i do know somebody with a civic hatch & another guy with a junked out integra... (even tho i would rather have a focus zx3 =]) D is the stock 96-98. Unlike 350 small blocks, or your average V8, hondas have a TON of different variations of their motors. Your average US 96-2000 LX and DX had the D16ya7. It only makes like 104 HP at around 6-7k RPM IIRMC. Above that engine you start getting into the Vtec and DOHC motors for the SIs and the tegs. Those motors in general are the Bs and up. Most common swaps for this model civic is B swap or an H swap. B swap is a LOT easier than an H swap, but the H series has a decent amount more torque, but also weighs a decent amount more. Only reason H series is really considered, albeit the harder swap, its a LOAD cheaper because they are easier to find and not as many people are looking for them. The B series swap is alot more capable than the D series once you get into boosting and such, and several versions, like the B18C motor is a Vtec motor (JDM/type R motors) while the B18B motor can be had for about half the price of the B18C, it is a NON vtec and is less desired unless you're looking to save cash. The B18B sacrifices around 40ish HP with no Vtec at higher RPMs IIRC. Then you get to the K series motor which is in its own bracket really. It is the strongest motor you can really swap into this civic chassis, which also makes it the most expensive. The K20s are from the RSXs up to the newer CRVs/accords. You're looking at about 200-220 HP from one of these with no mods and they can jump up pretty goddamn quick with the right mods. The way I look at it, the higher motor I go up to, the better it is. Because I will have the reliability of a stock motor with a TON more power behind it when I want. Sleeper car civic ftw. I are a racer. Anyways, sorry for the terribly long writeup, just figured i'd give you a little bit of info on it so you could learn about it a hell of alot easier than I did...forums and forums and more forums. All the info may not be spot on, as I myself am still learning as much as I can, but those numbers and all should be within the ballpark and I think all the info is basically spot on. Hope it helps so you understand what im thinking about. Im wanting atleast a B18 swap, if not the K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Heres very rough numbers pulled from a civic thread on the honda motors. These are the fastest cars seen at the time with these motors, all with extensive mods and boosted(track cars): Highest D17: 490ish HP Highest D16: 700ish HP Highest B: Over 1000HP Highest K: Over 1000HP Highest HL 800-900HP HIghest F: Over 800HP Highest A: 450 Basically track cars. The B series is, for the money, the best swap probably. For the power you can get from that motor, as it has extensive aftermarket parts/upgrades for LOADS cheaper than what youll put into a D series, I dont know why people just turbo their D series and call it quits. But that being said, the K series and fucking cheap. So ill prolly end up with a B. Doing everything right for a K swap you're prolly looking at $7kish if not a little more. Around $4K to turbo it correctly. The list goes on and on. For a B18C you'd be looking at maybe $4k for a correctly done motor swap. For a B18b (non vtec) you're prolly looking at half that for a B18C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubs_fan0718 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 2 lvl 5 12s eventually? dont you think with the weight of those subs not including everything else in the trunk plus ur drop, ur going to be rubbing the tops of ur fender wells? i mean u might not but thats alot of weight. 06 Impala SSKenwood Excelon DDX593 Ampere Audio 150.4 Ampere Audio 5K1 XS D4700 (front)Mechman 320a Alt. w/ Big 3 Lots of Second Skin Damplifier Under Construction for 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdave07 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I would go B series. honestly. And if you plan to boost, go b18a if you can find one. If you are building the internals its a stronger bottom end to begin with. B18b heads flow a little better. This is of coarse unless a B18C is in the budget lol. Best bang for your buck thou is A block B head. obd1 and some boost. Good luck with it, always nice seeing honda builds. keep up the pics! Xterra * 69 Camaro * Audi S5 36 Ford * 51 Mercury looking for wire sponsor www.flyracing.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Wood Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 2 lvl 5 12s eventually? dont you think with the weight of those subs not including everything else in the trunk plus ur drop, ur going to be rubbing the tops of ur fender wells? i mean u might not but thats alot of weight. word lvl 5's weigh A LOT!!! car looks sick though, if it were I, i would buy another civ to go fast, and keep this one to wall. seems like you have money to spend, another civic can be had for a couple grand, especially if your gonna mod the shit out of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 2 lvl 5 12s eventually? dont you think with the weight of those subs not including everything else in the trunk plus ur drop, ur going to be rubbing the tops of ur fender wells? i mean u might not but thats alot of weight. That's not counting the extra batteries. . Dc derick scraped with his full wall in his teg and he was only dropped a solid 2" in the back he said, but currenty he has more batteries and such too, not to mention a full mdf wall. All mines going to be birch, and that should atleast help. If I need to I'll pickup some less lowered rear springs and keep the felt the same, try to level her out with the weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I would go B series. honestly. And if you plan to boost, go b18a if you can find one. If you are building the internals its a stronger bottom end to begin with. B18b heads flow a little better. This is of coarse unless a B18C is in the budget lol. Best bang for your buck thou is A block B head. obd1 and some boost. Good luck with it, always nice seeing honda builds. keep up the pics! I'm thinking go the extra mile and save a little longer for the b18c honestly. Balls to the wall or not at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 2 lvl 5 12s eventually? dont you think with the weight of those subs not including everything else in the trunk plus ur drop, ur going to be rubbing the tops of ur fender wells? i mean u might not but thats alot of weight. word lvl 5's weigh A LOT!!! car looks sick though, if it were I, i would buy another civ to go fast, and keep this one to wall. seems like you have money to spend, another civic can be had for a couple grand, especially if your gonna mod the shit out of it... Im doing this less for the numbers on the track and more for the car. Eventually I want her to hit shows and such, so I'd like to mod er to the full extent, which would include a swap I think. I may change my mind and say fuck it and maye just boost the d with new internals, because my next (second) vehicle is going to be a diesel truck. Power and weight doesn't matter. Going 5.9 Cummings or 7.3 powerstroke. Something like this: Lets just say all the weight I can put on it and it'll take it like a champ. Maybe a 4th order with 12 18s or 15 15s?! WHO KNOWS. (Prolly wont be a dually though...not a fan of duallys in that body style, although it pulls it off gloriously) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotloud555 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 ALright.. Update on the subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted July 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 ALright.. Update on the subs Should be paying off the first lvl 5 12" this next week as I had unscheduled bills and expenses come up this week. Ill go ahead and build the box for it for a while I suppose until I can order the second one from Dwright. Good news, I just got access to a full wood shop with a guy I work with. Shapers, routers, drill press (I believe), table saws, the whole nine yards. Hopefully I can get this build to take off like I want it to and really get shit going. Im considering aiming the speakers in the doors straight, just for the sake of being a hell of alot easier (theyd prolly be done by now otherwise). I also think I may just use the bottom 'pocket' of the door, as it can be removed from the rest of the door panel. This will allow me to do it on a much smaller scale and will probably be easier. As for the box, I remeasured and my space for the box is...not as big as I remembered measuring a while back. So the amp rack design will change, and probably move. The box will take up most of the trunk and may even need to be made inside the trunk once I get the second lvl 5. Civic trunks are ftfl. I guess if it doesnt fit, that gives me the excuse I need to go for the wall build sooner than I had anticipated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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