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06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60


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Ok folks, I finally finished the RSB. I picked up my brackets today for the Si RSB. Now it's time to finish this thing up.

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Here's the one bolt holding it in for now. Let's get that out of there and free up the RSB.

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Next you'll see the bracket and the bolts up there. They're 14mm. Get those outta there. Save those bolts! You're gonna need em! There is something that you should know. The inside bolt above the arm is gonna need a box wrench to get out. I couldn't, at least, fit a socket up there. I just happen to have a set of ratchet style box wrenches FTMFW!!

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Old R18 bracket and New Si bracket. Differences, anyone see them. YES!

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Ok bolt those bad boys back up there.

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Now then, the other thing I didn't know, and I'll show you now, is that you're gonna need the Si Bracket Bolts as well. You can get them from Honda, or if you know the size you can go down and get them at Home Depot. I had the size but I threw the package away and now I can't find them. Sorry, someone can chime in if they know it.

Well I was under the car and had to get it fixed so this was my temporary solution. 1/4 x 20 screws with wing nuts. Ghetto, yea a little, but it got me to depot to get more!

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So I finished up with black allen head bolts with lock washers FTW!!

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So there it is. I was going to do the brackets while I was under there, but I was having trouble lining up the holes, so I decided screw it I'll deal with it later.

That's it. Not much, oh wait there's more. I did lower the front about 3/8".

Before:

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After:

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Not much difference really, and I think I can go down at least another half inch. But I need to roll the fenders first. Then I'll get it a little lower. Might even think about some spacers. Not sure yet.

That's it! Thanks for tuning in!

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Well there's lots going on. I am changing up the plan. Just a little bit but enough to allow a secret install!! Muahahahahaha! Yes folks I've decided to go air ride!!! So here's what's changing.

Start at the rear deck drawer. The original plan was to put the LRx 2.4 and LRx 4.1k in there. That is gonna change. The drawer is not gonna go in. Instead i'm making room for a 4 or 5 gallon air tank. The long skinny one, not the big thick one.

The trunk lid was originally gonna house the audition bit one processor. Now it's gonna house both of, or one of the LRx 1.1k's. I have one up for sale but to date I've gotten not one offer on it. So it is what it is. I do need the money! But if It doesn't sell then so be it! I'll work it back into the system. May just do that anyway. So those are gonna go on the trunk lid.

Next the original plan with the batteries was to have one battery on each side of the trunk in the rear corner cubbies. Now I'm changing that. I'm going to stack both batteries in one cubbyhole, most likely the driver side since the main front battery is on that side, and then in the passenger side cubbie ill be mounting the bit one.

The subs are gonna fire to the trunk and a pass through will be made in the box to allow sound to travel from the trunk to the cabin. I'm also thinking If putting one of the sub amps on a switch so that I can turn one off whe I want less bass and turn it on when I want more bass. Just thinking about this. Anyway! Subs firing rear.

Below the subs will be a raised floor, as with the original design, however now instead of housing the 2 1.1k's and the 2.9, it will now have the 4.1k and the 2.9. If one of the 1.1k's sells, I'll change the format.

The 2.4 rear fill amp that was supposed to go in the drawer originally, Is now going into the rear deck. The original plan for the rear deck was to do the hsk comps, and then the crossovers were gonna go into an enclosure in the center of the rear deck. Now the crossovers are gonna go to the component panel behind the rear seat. I'll get back to that next. So now instead of the crossovers, the 2.4 is gonna go in the center enclosure. If the sub amp sells, the 2.9 will go into the trunk since it's the same size as the 1.1's. Then the 2.4 will go on the floor with the 4.1k. At that point the crossovers would go back to the rear deck as original.

The component panel, which will be behind the rear seat, will fold down as the rear seat does. That way I can work with the wiring if I need to, for troubleshooting or any other thing I need to do. On the driver side of the panel there will be a drop in panel, as seen on the mock ups pictured above, that will house the fuse panel, barrier strips, and relays. On the passenger side the same type of drop in will house the blue tooth module, hd radio tuner, and rear fill crossovers.

In case I didn't say already I've sold one set of the ml1600's so I going to a single mid bass set up. Just thought I'd throw that I so everyone is up to date.

So to the air. The air tank is going above the sub box as I said already. The compressor, valve manifold, and electronics will go in the spare tire well. The floor amp rack will be raisable as before so everything air will be accessible. The tank will be painted in some way to go wit the audition and hertz theme. Most likely will have hertz and audison stickers on it as well.

So that's it. I think I covered everything.

Thanks for tuning in as always! More to come, probably, Sunday but if not soon after that. Busy week this week so probably not much gonna happen.

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Question for you guys! For those of you who ride tucked in front or lower than the top of the tire, do you have rubbing issues when steering? I want to go lower but I can't get passed the thought of rubbing every time I turn.

Other thing is, I feel like I'm sitting too far back with the tires, doesn't look good. I'm wondering if spacers up front might be a good thing for me. But then I'm back to the steering issue or concern. Thoughts?

Here's some pics of what I'm talking about.

Front wheel:

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Sits about 1" inside the wheel well:

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Rear wheel:

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About 3/8" from the wheel well:

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I know the tires are a little worse for wear but that's from before the fenders were addressed.

The front fenders will be rolled and fixed before I go lower, right now they do hit on a harder bump or something. That will be soon.

Any thoughts from anyone on this? 12mm spacer up front maybe?

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Ok well I guess noone has any input on this, that's fine. I'll move on.

I am going to start some stuff tonight that's not performance related. But I don't think I'll be able to show much if any of it. Going to start my alarm install. I have all diagrams and plan and as usual, I'm being creative with this. That's why I wish I could show it, but that would defeat the purpose of an alarm install wouldn't it.

More later if I can!

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Have you thought about rolling the fenders?

My buddies hatch with a tuck and roll:

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My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild

N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol

srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight

looks like tony montana sneezed in your car.

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Roll them yourself! Aluminum baseball bat FTMFW!! But since your car is still shiny and new, paying to have them done is a wise choice.

My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild

N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol

srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight

looks like tony montana sneezed in your car.

VbjgkeI.jpg

kNsESzw.jpg

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I'll just wait and get them rolled this weekend. I don't wanna risk chipping paint or anything like that. I did think about getting a roller myself though. But really, my rear fenders are as rolled as they can possibly be, and my fronts are all that's left. I guess I could charge people to do it for them, but why take the risk that something might happen. Also depends on how much they are. I'll look into it. But I'll most likely take it to the place that's done my rears for me.

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WELL F-F-F-F-F-F-F!!! I pretty much spent all day fiberglassing a pretty big piece today. Started getting into the early evening and it was time to put my car back together, so I pulled it out of the car. Molded beautifully to where I made it to in the car. I set it outside on the patio to let it sit overnight and then i would put more on it later, or another night. It was still pretty flimsy at the time. I figured it was as cured as it was gonna get.

Well I just went out there, it's 11:40pm Pacific Time, and I had set it ontop of something, an now it's bowed to what I set it on top of. So now it's no longer flat the way it was supposed to be and I'm not sure what to do about it, if I can do anything to it.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I thought maybe if I put more resin on it, that it would heat up the original resin, and help it lay back down. Does that sound like it would work? Or should I just scrap it and start over?

I'm so frustrated about this. Spent about 6 hours from dismantle, prep, glassing, pulling, and putting the car back together. I guess I just wasted my time huh?

Anyone have any input?

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