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WinISD attempt... Thoughts?


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Only thing I would do is try to get more port. From everyone experienced with the dc lvl 4s and up they like closer to 16-20 on port. That is a very low tuned box and f3 looks good. Winisd is a great program from what I've had time to mess with. I just wish the bigger woofers out there listed with their parameters and such. Can't really use it for help on our lvl 5s. :lol:

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Yes Ricky, it's free. That's the reason I'm trying to learn to use it, Torres only tells you so much lol.

And Tone, yes it sucks that many larger woofers don't have posted specs, but Ray recommended me a woofer tester so I can get them myself. It's only $100, and if/when I get it I can test my 18s and then send it to you to test the 12s :)

On the note about port, I thought the general idea of port area is that you don't want to have port noise. Is there something else I should be looking at that port area effects? I'm still learning what the different graphs and the like mean.

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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I find the WinISD pro to be a little bit buggy, so I use the regular WinISD. Right off the bat it tries to calc the flattest response, so sometimes it gives you really weird figures like 25 cubes for a SMD18, but flat response to 12hz. You have to tweak the numbers and keep cabin gain in mind, but I like to put in a known design and compare/tweak a new box. The regular WinISD will not calculate 6th order dual tuned properly (you have to manually tweak it out and watch your response curve) and doesn't do series tuned 6th orders at all. It has a Vent Mach calculator, but from what I've seen in the real world it's not much help... i.e. WinISD says the port in Steve Meade's tahoe should be whistling like a train horn. For that I would go to the manufacturer or here for recommended in^2port/cube data.

I want to buy a couple cheap woofers from parts express and then test out a couple designs before I build the box for my upcoming Level 4 15. When I do I'll let you know and probably post a vid.

EDIT: I'm not an expert on WInISD but I think Ray is... and I'm sure he'll correct me if I'm wrong on anything.

Edited by srp365

2007 Pacifica
Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud.

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Thanks for the reply, yes I have noticed the weird figures for flat response with some woofers. I have the regular version as well, so I'll mess with it. Can you explain cabin gain a bit?

And I'd love to have Ray look at this and comment, perhaps I need to put Audison or Hertz in the title, that'll catch his attention lol. And then he would ban me :)

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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Yes Ricky, it's free. That's the reason I'm trying to learn to use it, Torres only tells you so much lol.

And Tone, yes it sucks that many larger woofers don't have posted specs, but Ray recommended me a woofer tester so I can get them myself. It's only $100, and if/when I get it I can test my 18s and then send it to you to test the 12s :)

On the note about port, I thought the general idea of port area is that you don't want to have port noise. Is there something else I should be looking at that port area effects? I'm still learning what the different graphs and the like mean.

As I understand it:

General idea you dont want any port noise, which is basically too much pressure on the air coming out of the port/causing 'friction' of the air. More port area helps this, but going too big you lose backpressure on the subs, which hurts your mechanical handling. Its a trade game though, you can get more output out of your port and different subs like different amounts of port, but the more port, the worse your powerhandling is. Smaller the port the more power your sub can handle. I also believe more port area helps drop your F3 as well, although im not positive on this. That would be something someone more experienced would need to chime in on.

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