252chevyboyz Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) Hey what's up everyone. I was just at a local audio shop here in town and I saw a Massive Audio amp (pic below) with 800 rms and either 1500 or 1800 peak output. I am current running an Autotek SM2-1200 (pic below). It has 600w x 2chan x 2ohms. Would it be worth upgrading to a digital amp from what I have currently? In reality which one is more efficient and which one would produce the best sound? I would just like to have a little more power than what I have. The amp is also pushing 2 12" Q Power New Deluxe subs. I just want to have something decent until I get my bigger system Saving up for 2 DC lvl 4's with a DC 2K or a Cresendo BC2000. In the process of upgrading electrical now so that will be ready for a bigger system. Thanks for any help as it is much appreciated. -James Autotek: Massive: Edited August 7, 2011 by 252chevyboyz Quote - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Sonic Electronix doesn't even list RMS figures for the Autotek. So I'm going to act upon the assumption that its a crap brand. I'm not super familiar with them, so IDK, but that's what I'm going to assume. Also, completely toss max ratings. They tell you absolutely nothing. Most amplifiers that list max ratings also state RMS figures around half that. This amplifier says it will do 1200w bridged at 4 ohm. So I'll guess it will do 600 wRMS bridged at 4 ohm. And being that I've assumed its a crap brand, I'll knock off another 150 watts because crap brands also have a tendency to be over rated. So lets assume you're actually getting 450 watts. That leaves you with a 350 watt difference. The massive will almost certainly output cleaner power than the Autotek. All that I said above was me speculating. I could be completely wrong and Autotek outputs more than 600 watts of perfectly clean power. What I said below will stand either way. Would it be worth dropping the money on a new amplifier? That's up to you. Being that you said you were already planning to upgrade, I'd just save my money and buy better equipment in the future instead of buying an amplifier I'd only use for a couple months and then have to stick in a closet. Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252chevyboyz Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) Yea its not the best amp. I had bought the amp on a budget paid 140 and possibly could sell it for 125 if my buddy comes through and wants the amp. Only way I would buy another amp is sell this one then add a little cash to the money I already had. I have noticed that I certianly could put a little more power on these subs than what's on it. I need to clamp meter the amp and see what the RMS is. Autotek/Maxx Sonics has been around for a little while but there are most def better amps than this autotek. I'm guess around 430-460 for my RMS on 2 channels. I don't like hatin but its just not satisfying. Thanks for the thoughts on it also. If anyone else has opinions chime on in Edited August 7, 2011 by 252chevyboyz Quote - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch0sen Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 I would wait around for your other amps instead of getting the massive audio amp, that dc 2k or the crescendo will do you much more justice, and a class D amp doesn't stand for a class digital amp Class D amplifiers use output transistors as switches to control power distribution — the transistors rapidly switch on and off at least twice during every signal cycle. Class D amps boast higher efficiency, produce less heat, and draw less current than traditional Class AB designs. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at high frequencies that are typically removed by a low-pass filter. copied and pasted for the interwebs Quote My current 95 Jetta Build w/ pioneer h/u 2 RD Sonance 10's with flatwind coils 2 Audiopipe apsm 1500.1s 1 Hifonics Brutus Elite 60x4 1 XS d925 1 Stinger spv35 1 1000 amp lead acid 50 ft of 0/1 ofc from Audiotechnix all powerbass components, and coaxils, 4 sets buildlog = http://www.stevemead...2-rd-10s-build/ My build for my wife. http://www.stevemead...01-f-150-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252chevyboyz Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Good explanation Ch0sen. I think I'll just wait for my new system as this one I really dont think would stand up to around a 2k rms. Q Power says these subs can handle a 1500W peak. I really think they would come all apart just my opinion haha. Class D amps really are the future of amps. Until a 100% efficient amp comes out. Wont that be the day? Glad to see some more NC members also. Quote - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Don't look at the peak rating. Quote Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252chevyboyz Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 O yea the rms handling is def looked at instead of peak power. I was just saying I really dont think a 12" Q Power New Deluxe could handle 1500w but maybe for a couple second burp. They arent really comp subs but they do their job until I get my new system Quote - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktraughb Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Autotek is not at all a crap brand. They make some low level stuff but also some quality stuff. If you want specs go to manufacturing websites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Autotek is not at all a crap brand. They make some low level stuff but also some quality stuff. If you want specs go to manufacturing websites. Have you gone to their site? Not only is the amp not listed, but the amps they list there are also only listed with max ratings. Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252chevyboyz Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Yea I agree the company needs to update their info and post RMS. If you check out my youtube channel you can see what this entry level system can do. YouTube Quote - 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene My Selling Feedback Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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