ktraughb

very nice looking subs. one of my teammates just ordered one. im curious as to how it sounds and performs. im sure very well. nice box too!

i actually just grinded a fiberglass box in shorts and t shirt and just blow off all the dust on my clothes and skin with my air nozzle tip. it usually doesnt bother me too bad like that unless exposed kitty hair gets in my clothes. however, i do wear a respirator. ive cut inside an extreme vehicle and nearly died without a real respirator. the way i see it is if i cant smell it through the mask, ill live.

respirator for sure. niosh approved and youll be fine.

They don't require a ton of space. 6 cubes is plenty for 2 15s and I would run 2 12s in as little as 2.5 cubes total.

Some of the loudest street cars in the world have subs off-axis, facing each other inverted, and out of phase. Try it before you take theory for a generalized exclusion.

something happened to trigger the oem anti theft. not aftermarket. but for future reference, if there are issues with the remote start, simply get under the dash and remove it. theyre much easier to uninstall than to install. just make sure to tape any bare wire once finished. being an 01, it would have required a transponder override, and if not properly installed, or properly programmed it can cause some serious issues with start up or security--also inserting an incorrect key and attempting to start the car can cause a starter interrupt pattern in the car. look for either an ignition cylinder ring or to see if someone has tapped a programmable bypass into rx/tx data wires where the key inserts (under the plastic around the ignition cylinder). its always fixable, just a matter of getting the wiring correct, or potential programming.

My shop would charge roughly $200.00 for that job, with strip and lifetime warranty against bubbling and peeling. Basically $150 for the tint, and $50 for the strip. Ironically, the strip usually takes longer.

Sorry to hear this. Like others said. Spend quality time and make sure she's comfortable.

It is most often a poor ground. First attempt to solve-ground rca outputs at the head unit.

I had a c pillar wall in my explorer. I loved that. However I can't bring myself to b pillar wall my blazer.

so i assume youre simply trying to add a subwoofer amplifier to the system correct? if you are developing your signal for the hi/lo adapter after the amplifier you should not have any issues. after the factory bose amplifier is a striaght signal. yes it may be crossed over. but that should not matter due to the crossover on your amplifier. you wouldnt want a sub to see full range response anyway. now if youre attempting something else non-subwoofer let me know.

found it

i dont know how much truth there is to it, but there is a vid on youtube from ed lester explaining the actual properties behind parallel wiring and series wiring. even when configuring to the same ohm load, he was getting higher score results with parallel wiring. now this is in terms of spl. ive actually heard this from a couple very educated competitors. i wont try to explain it, but theres a vid out there somewhere with a technical explanation.

i love these american bass subs. most of their subs really.

i think O2 audio had a set that was somewhat affordable. i think vibe may have released a pretty good set too that wasnt outrageous.

what do you guys think of these? super budget, i know. but im more curious about their response. thanks, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=270-011&FTR=Goldwood%20GT-1005 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-310&scqty=4

i know exactly what you mean. i think it shouldnt be too hard to at least do that part. ive found some around that will play 55-2500Hz on the mids response, which i will likely set an hpf a little higher on that. and actually some tweeters with response right at 3500-27k. seems close, not perfect, but close

kinda. id simply be replacing the mids and tweeters. basically without going active, and using some much better crossovers i have from an old mb quart set. i have discus amps, which sound great, but dont have bandpass filtering. so in terms of being cheap, im limted on my options right now. just other priorities, so this is somewhat being skimped on for now, but at least trying to achieve better results than what i have now.

i am using some not so good components. volume wise, they take power well without sounding distorted to the ear, as i said, i just really need a boost in the range for guitar etc. which is obviously a huge range, but its the best i can describe it. lol. the current set is an old pair of fusion components (not the jonah lomu series), and in the dash i currently have some 4x6 full range, and a pair of 6.5 full range in the rear.

3 way active is up for consideration as well, but id have to make some other equipment changes too. tring to do this inexpensively. but im open to suggestions on how to properly compose an active 3 way on a budget. i use this vehicle daily, and while its built for bass, ive been wanting to step into a bit of sq.

yeah i did wonder about that. he also installed a center channel for full range fill. i will have some 2 ways installed in my rear doors for some fill, but wont affect much at all up front, so i may need to consider that fact.

that is true. you do see a fair amount of 8s in here. and my other installer just added 8s from ssa to his doors, and i was simply amazed at the sound they can produce with his mb quart q amps.

Providing all other factors are equal-same distributed power, same frequency response, similar mounting locations etc. which would you prefer and why? im trying to decide for my front door panels in my 98 blazer. tweeters will be located either in a pillar or dash. i know that the frequency response will be similar, but wasnt sure that if still an 8 inch could have a better mid bass response simply due to cone size? If i did a pair of 8s, power to each would be about 150 watts. Of course, if two pairs of 6.5", power to each would be about 75 watts. My main reason for wanting to add mid is for the fact the current compnents lack response for a lot of guitars, etc. of course subs take care of below 80 hz, but the mid is really lacking in my vehicle. any help is appreciated, i dont often mess with multiple mid setups.

im actually about to get some of the pyle pro 8s and try them out. they come in 8 ohm, so can do a pretty efficient setup with a 4 channel based on these things. well see how they turn out. ive heard they were decent, but not actually seen them yet.

you should actually see a world of difference once it is truly sealed.