Phoenix Gold Australia's 12x 12" Elite's 24kw - 160.2dB @ 40Hz

[Phoenix Gold Oz]

Some Baffle Action, we did a rough jigsaw of the holes, then used the template we made earlier along with the flush bit on the router, perfect circle every time and no multiple passes with the perfect circle when trying to cut though thicker baffles - Quick and Easy!

No idea why it took 3 guys to do this when we had clamps sitting on the floor?!?

Quick Test fit to mark the baffle locations

Marked and Mounted the traingle divider, centered to the new port location

Baffles mounted for the final time!!!

[Phoenix Gold Oz]

And lots of room behind the magnet FTW!!!

And the obligatory Subwoofer Magnet Gasket on the head - Nice one Craig!!!

More work during the week - Updates Soon!

[scooter99]

I love this build!

[Phawstir]

Beastly, looking forward to seeing more!

[Blackedout]

This is a badass build. Great work guys.

[Phoenix Gold Oz]

Thanks Guys!

We're really hoping that this rebuild fixes our cancellation issues form the last build. We were doing 161.x dB at 33Hz at the back of the box, but only 147.x dB at the port, then gaining back about 5dB for 152.x at the dash.

Of course we could do those sort of number anywhere from about 20Hz up to around 45Hz, but it still wasn't Loud enough DAMMIT!!!

The new build looks to sort out the baffle progression Vs cone are issues (on paper anyway) and the even though we are dropping down from 18x 12's down to 12x 12's we are actually gaining in the over-all volume of air moved (going from 18x 40mm Xmax up to 12x 60mm Xmax) and last but not least we are going from 11,250w RMS up to 24, 600w RMS so almost 2.5x the power!!!

We have HIGH hopes - well actually we have LOW hopes for this build!!!

Cheers,

Scott

[Phoenix Gold Oz]

Small Mid-Week Update before the weekend:

Test fit some extra batteries underneath the subwoofer box in the spare tire well, previously we had 2 units down there, but with our advanced Tetris skills, we were able to fit 4:

Also got the pieces cut for a pretty cool inter-changeable port. We need to paint the interior of the box, but want to be able to swap out port lengths for final testing, so needed a way to make this possible and still be strong. Pretty sure this will work but too hard to explain, so stay tuned for more pics:

And of course Finn needed to help out too!

More updates soon, new undercar neon, some MAN Horns, and maybe flashing headlights happening tonight (depending on time), then tomorrow is installation fo the port and SANDING, SANDING, SANDING!!!!

Not much work this weekend, we have Round 1 of Australia's MEA Bass Battle on Sat, then our Stinger Australia Xmas party on Sunday, but might sneak in a bit of work if I'm lucky!!!

Cheers,

Scott

[Phoenix Gold Oz]

Hi Guys,

A few mid-week updates before another BIG weekend:

Bottom Batteries in and wired up

Top Batteries in place, not fully wired up, need to install a few items behind the scenes first. That brings us to 10x SPV69 batteries in the trunk + 1 more in the engine bay!

Batts have been sitting for the past 3 months and STILL floating at 12.8v

New bottom amp racks

They Fit!!!

With amps in their extra protective warppers, aka tea towels

Sneak peak of the embroidery for the insert in the new door panels

B-Pillars and maybe speaker pods this weekend!!!

Cheers,

Scott

[Phoenix Gold Oz]

Hi All,

Some more updates for you as we try to get this project ready for SummerNats show on Jan 3rd

Some bracing between the baffles installed, to help prevent baffle flex. We already have full dividers ever 13" bracing the baffles directly to the floor/roof, but we have added more bracing between the woofers at the baffle transition point once again baracing directly to the floor / roof.

After watching a lot more videos of the BIG boys builds, we decided that we didn't want any mishaps with the sheet metal of our roof (if the window shatrers cool - but we're 'trying' to avoid structuaral issues) - so we used one of Gary Bell's techniques (ex-Alpine USA show car fabricator with Steve Brown and Brent Davison). He used to to alternating layers of Sound Deadening with strips of 3mm MDF inbetween. Since we already had a layer of RaodKill on the roof we then went with 50mm strips of 3mm MDF from side to side, attached with Liquid Nails then covered in another layer of RoadKill. Then we added another layer of 3mm going front to back, covered in tyet another layer of RoadKill. So finger's crossed we shouldn'ty have any sheet metal issues with the added stiffness and mass...

We also got the inside of the box all nice and sanded, ready for hi-fill and paint (and yes that was me actually doing some work!)

Craig working on MORE speaker rings, to add even more speakers to the Astra (time permitting for SummerNats)

And we made a start witht he B-Pillars, using the old school carboard and masking tape method, we didn't get them finished yet, becasue we ended up killing yet another Router and it was past 6pm and the hardware store was closed!!!

And a sneak peak of the new door trims coming together thanks to Mick - talk about dedication, he and his wife welcome in their second child, a beautiful Daughter at then end of last week, and he's already back into trimming!!!

More this weekend!!!

Scott

[quakecitystudio]

I'm following the build and noticed how my small replica box is similar to your wall.

If I can make a small suggestion or share something about this style that I learned:

I built a small scale version of the box with 12 3" speakers and noticed that I had more db when I "seal" the middle port or relocate the port to outside of the cone firing area. But it being in a small car like we have, relocation may not be possible. I had to ask myself why there was more db when the center was sealed. After thinking about it, I figured that the acoustical output of the middle six in the port is being "overtaken" by the same acoustical force of all 12 speakers as it "draws" air back into the box. What's happening is that while all 12 subs push outwards in a single motion, the air compression caused by the six in the port is being sucked back into the box due to all 12 subs outward motion from the box. The front area of the car will hear more of the 6 angled 12s than all 12 because of the port.

If you were to put a sealing cap on the port, it does become a sealed box. But, you don't have that draw-back caused by all 12 subs forward motion that is pulling acoustical output from the 6 in the port back into the box. You'd have all 12 pushing out from the box and not a portion being compromised. I guess what I'm saying is that the 6 in the port kind of acts like it's playing free air and being cancelled out by the overall output of the sub wall.

I'm probably gonna get alot of hate from posting this but, I did build a smaller replica and played it, and then relocated my port to one side outside of the speaker firing area, and then just sealed the box completely.