toadking90 Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 so my truck started running really hot the other day... i was like mfer sob pos and turned the heat on... which sucks cause its like 95 degrees here... so the temp went down. then it started blowing cold air........... ok so long story short i replaced the thermostat filled radiator back up with anitfreeze and drove it around the block. all was good no leaks nothing. today on my way to work it got hot again.... it touched the top of the heat gauge and went back down to normal once i just turned the vent on and not ac... what could this be? would maybe a radiator flush help this??? thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptonite Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Pull the thermostat out completely and see what it does, it should stay relatively cold, def below the normal needle position. If the needle continues to fluctuate or stay hot with the thermostat out, than you may have a bad coolant temperature sensor. There might be an air bubble in your system which you could get rid of as easily as letting your engine cool down completely, pull your radiator cap and start the vehicle. With cap off and engine running squeeze the top hose which in effect is burping your cooling system, add coolant to the radiator as needed, making sure to use a 50/50 water coolant mixture. Of none of those help you may have a clog which needs to he professionally flushed/checked out. Quote DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGERCurrently Own 4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option 2 - DC 5k lvl 4 motor lvl 2 motor On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said: this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadking90 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 So today the temp gauge stayed on hot mostly but dropped down to cold very fast and jumped back to hot about the speed a rpm gauge jumps. Could it be the sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Could be the sensor. Your truck has the OBD-II system right? You don't know anybody with a code reader? Some sensors can go bad and not trip the check engine light. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadking90 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Not sure about the OBD system and no nobody I know has one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadking90 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Not sure about the OBD system and no nobody I know has one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBW Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 What's the make and model? Quote Kenwood KIV-BT900 Front Stage RF 400-4 Runs off dedicated 4 awg ofc RE 6.5 125.5. Lanzar Max Pro 6.5 Boston S60 6.5 components Rear Soundstream BX-15 Boston S60 6.5 components 4x Sundown SA8 v1.5 Crescendo BC3500D 2.4 net 28hz 4 runs of 0 gauge Big 3 HC2400 700ca up front Singer 350 Amp Alt No deadener :/ Scytek Galaxy Alarm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 What year is the vehicle? If it is post '96, there should be a plug under the driver side dash. Any flash tuner can read codes, too. SCT, Diablo, those type of things. If you take it to a shop, they will charge a stupid amount to plug it in and tell you whats wrong. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadking90 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 98 f150 v6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBW Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 I'm gonno go with krypto at this point... does your thermostat housing have a bleeder screw? Or a return hose going back to the overflow pressure tank? Quote Kenwood KIV-BT900 Front Stage RF 400-4 Runs off dedicated 4 awg ofc RE 6.5 125.5. Lanzar Max Pro 6.5 Boston S60 6.5 components Rear Soundstream BX-15 Boston S60 6.5 components 4x Sundown SA8 v1.5 Crescendo BC3500D 2.4 net 28hz 4 runs of 0 gauge Big 3 HC2400 700ca up front Singer 350 Amp Alt No deadener :/ Scytek Galaxy Alarm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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