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WTB KnuKonceptz Speaker Wire


Johny B

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12awg will be a lot harder to get through the door boots. i would just go with 16awg. i think i use 16 and 14. even have 18awg for my tweeters. i would rather get the correct size and be able to run it than spend more money for overkill (shit you wont use) and have a bitch of a time running the wire through a boot. but its up to you.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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thats what I am using for my build :drink40:

and like said ^^ no such thing as overkill ;)

and 100ft should be fine

Nice. Ya so its either that or this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KMPSP14 right now. I might go with the Klear Kable since i'll spend like half the price and save me money for power wire. Ok ill get 100ft. Thanks for the help and advice :drinks:

06 Chrysler 300

Pioneer avh-x8500bhs

Hertz Hsk 130.4

Alpine mrp-F600

2 Dc level 4 12s

Dc 2k

Viper 5901

SHCA wiring

KnuKonceptz RCA's

SecondSkin/Fatmat

Big 3-stock alt

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Nd you can manoeuvre. Alot better to conceal your wiring the most possible

Ya foresure. Hopefully when all is set and done ill be able to put my ride in for SOTM when theres another 2000watts and under catagory

06 Chrysler 300

Pioneer avh-x8500bhs

Hertz Hsk 130.4

Alpine mrp-F600

2 Dc level 4 12s

Dc 2k

Viper 5901

SHCA wiring

KnuKonceptz RCA's

SecondSkin/Fatmat

Big 3-stock alt

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12awg will be a lot harder to get through the door boots. i would just go with 16awg. i think i use 16 and 14. even have 18awg for my tweeters. i would rather get the correct size and be able to run it than spend more money for overkill (shit you wont use) and have a bitch of a time running the wire through a boot. but its up to you.

Ok ya ill use 14 or 16 then. I dont want to make it any harder than its already gonna be for me lol

06 Chrysler 300

Pioneer avh-x8500bhs

Hertz Hsk 130.4

Alpine mrp-F600

2 Dc level 4 12s

Dc 2k

Viper 5901

SHCA wiring

KnuKonceptz RCA's

SecondSkin/Fatmat

Big 3-stock alt

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I went with this stuff. its good. I have a buddy that has it and he likes it plus its 14g.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KMPSP14

Thanks for the advice. :good: Im also looking at this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KAR12SS but ill also consider the kompressed wire if you have good experience with it. I have 5.25 infinity kappa components in the front and 5.25 infinity kappa coaxials in the back. Going to power it with a alpine mrp f600

seriously, dont get that wire. it is the biggest pain in the ass to strip ever. everyone who gets it, regrets it. myself included.

X2 aboslute poop. I cut my fingers numerous times trying to strip back that crap ass plastic jacket

Everythings in the attic or garage since the truck was sold last year. New build should be coming soon in a dodge cummins smile.gif

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I bought a spool of 300 feet of kickers wire, and almost used it all, but then again I have 8 tweets, and and mids all seperatly wired, with the amps in the back :P

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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I went with this stuff. its good. I have a buddy that has it and he likes it plus its 14g.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KMPSP14

Thanks for the advice. :good: Im also looking at this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KAR12SS but ill also consider the kompressed wire if you have good experience with it. I have 5.25 infinity kappa components in the front and 5.25 infinity kappa coaxials in the back. Going to power it with a alpine mrp f600

seriously, dont get that wire. it is the biggest pain in the ass to strip ever. everyone who gets it, regrets it. myself included.

X2 aboslute poop. I cut my fingers numerous times trying to strip back that crap ass plastic jacket

on my box cutters the first notch was the correct length to get through most of the outer jacket without cutting the inner jackets. pretty hard to cut yourself that way.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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