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when u do power supplys like this, do u want to use all yellow 12v wires and the same amount of black wires? or is 1 enough?

and ive got a 900w server supply but it has all different wiring on it, it comes on but i need some kinda resistor to put a load on the wire but take it off as soon as the supply powers on, i know it has some power, it has 2 2&1/2'' fans on one side and holes on the other for air flow, and then something like 10guage wire comeing out of it, says it does around 15amps @ 12v but i dont seem to get no more than 2-3amps max for some reason

anywho, power supplys work wonders in house, work good to power anything u need pritty much, get a digital multi meter and check your wires to see what voltage they are, u can use it to power 12v componits other than car stereo stuff

i tried to wire a battery inline of the power converter and it dont work the best, i got a small 20ah battery from a jumper pack i got, when battery is charged it trys to cut on the converter making it backfeed in one another, same thing would work with your capacitor also

if u run a 200w amp try to get a 250-300w power supply, i got a new one for my comp for around $50 from staples and its 350w, my other ones signal wires (green/black) messed up when lighting came in and i had to fix it, supply is still good but doesn't work for comp no more

hope this helps in what ur trying to do, u wont get the same amount of current like u would with a car battery and a car charger but it will work fine also, u dont want a battery in ur house with a charger, fumes and what knot, unless its a agm, but this is best for budget

if ur looking to go big, kenitek makes a 90amp power supply to help with people at car shows charge there batteries and what knot, works good, but in the $300 range

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

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when u do power supplys like this, do u want to use all yellow 12v wires and the same amount of black wires? or is 1 enough?

and ive got a 900w server supply but it has all different wiring on it, it comes on but i need some kinda resistor to put a load on the wire but take it off as soon as the supply powers on, i know it has some power, it has 2 2&1/2'' fans on one side and holes on the other for air flow, and then something like 10guage wire comeing out of it, says it does around 15amps @ 12v but i dont seem to get no more than 2-3amps max for some reason

anywho, power supplys work wonders in house, work good to power anything u need pritty much, get a digital multi meter and check your wires to see what voltage they are, u can use it to power 12v componits other than car stereo stuff

i tried to wire a battery inline of the power converter and it dont work the best, i got a small 20ah battery from a jumper pack i got, when battery is charged it trys to cut on the converter making it backfeed in one another, same thing would work with your capacitor also

if u run a 200w amp try to get a 250-300w power supply, i got a new one for my comp for around $50 from staples and its 350w, my other ones signal wires (green/black) messed up when lighting came in and i had to fix it, supply is still good but doesn't work for comp no more

hope this helps in what ur trying to do, u wont get the same amount of current like u would with a car battery and a car charger but it will work fine also, u dont want a battery in ur house with a charger, fumes and what knot, unless its a agm, but this is best for budget

if ur looking to go big, kenitek makes a 90amp power supply to help with people at car shows charge there batteries and what knot, works good, but in the $300 range

For running all the yellow and black wires together it isnt needed. The thing you need to do is find which wire is the main rail and has the most power cabability or amp rating. Finding that wire is a pain in the ass and sometimes cant be found because like my old power supply it had a protection circuit in it where if i drew enough current id shut it off so i would draw 15 amps and it would die on me until i reset it. For his setup i think a psu will get him by pretty well.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

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