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i wanted to ask around on here to see what everyone could recommend. About a month if not a little longer ago i put hid's in my 2004 gmc envoy. I did the plug and play for my fogs which turned out perfect but i decided to retrofit projectors in my low/high headlights. I bought two brand new headlights for the truck and tore them apart, cut out the opening for the low beam and made my projector fit. I got the projector in, had everything running just fine for over a month and the other day i noticed my passenger side headlight was falling apart. The clear lens that goes on the light assembly is not staying on the light. I did like ppl on trailvoy.com said by sealing it back up with 100% pure silicone caulk and it worked and was a tight fit but here we are and that shit isnt holding a damn thing together. The caulk stuck to the clear lens on the front of the light just not the little lip that is on the light itself. I am in the process of taking the retro fit lights (both of them since my driver side one has a small corner that isnt sealing so i might as well take it all off and do it right if i can) and putting it all back together with something better than the 100% silicone sealant i used. My dad just bought this for me tonight: http://3mcollision.com/products/adhesive-products/glass-adhesives/3m-window-weld-super-fast-urethane-08609-black.html im not sure if this will work or not. I read on some places online that the window weld wouldnt hold that well with the high temperatures headlights give off but you would think that the window has got to be hotter than the headlight with it being in direct sunlight all day long. This is what i used originally to attempt to hold the light together: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11420165&CAWELAID=109334869. I read on some areas that they used rubber butyl to hold their headlights together tight and weatherproofed and was thinking about finding it if i could. I was also wanting to make it so that if for some reason i have a problem with my projector and need to replace it, i can still take off the lens to fix it but would need to use a heat gun like i originally did to pry the light apart.

If someone could please recommend me something that will keep the lens of my headlight on tight that would be great for me. I did like meade did with the pure silicone and even prepped the surface and it still didnt stick to the backing of my headlight.

As always thanks for your help and suggestions.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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i wanted to ask around on here to see what everyone could recommend. About a month if not a little longer ago i put hid's in my 2004 gmc envoy. I did the plug and play for my fogs which turned out perfect but i decided to retrofit projectors in my low/high headlights. I bought two brand new headlights for the truck and tore them apart, cut out the opening for the low beam and made my projector fit. I got the projector in, had everything running just fine for over a month and the other day i noticed my passenger side headlight was falling apart. The clear lens that goes on the light assembly is not staying on the light. I did like ppl on trailvoy.com said by sealing it back up with 100% pure silicone caulk and it worked and was a tight fit but here we are and that shit isnt holding a damn thing together. The caulk stuck to the clear lens on the front of the light just not the little lip that is on the light itself. I am in the process of taking the retro fit lights (both of them since my driver side one has a small corner that isnt sealing so i might as well take it all off and do it right if i can) and putting it all back together with something better than the 100% silicone sealant i used. My dad just bought this for me tonight: http://3mcollision.c...8609-black.html im not sure if this will work or not. I read on some places online that the window weld wouldnt hold that well with the high temperatures headlights give off but you would think that the window has got to be hotter than the headlight with it being in direct sunlight all day long. This is what i used originally to attempt to hold the light together: http://www.acehardwa...ELAID=109334869. I read on some areas that they used rubber butyl to hold their headlights together tight and weatherproofed and was thinking about finding it if i could. I was also wanting to make it so that if for some reason i have a problem with my projector and need to replace it, i can still take off the lens to fix it but would need to use a heat gun like i originally did to pry the light apart.

If someone could please recommend me something that will keep the lens of my headlight on tight that would be great for me. I did like meade did with the pure silicone and even prepped the surface and it still didnt stick to the backing of my headlight.

As always thanks for your help and suggestions.

this took my awhile to find for you, this is exactly what you need!! this is what my mazda3 had stock for sealing them, I take it the plastic clear part is coming apart from the rest of the headlight? this stuff you have to warm up while pushing the peices together, like with a heatgun/hairdryer, and once it cools, you will never get it apart, unless you heat it again, and it still took my 45 minutes to get my headlight apart because it was so strong, this stuff is perfect though, its exactly what you need, seals it, and will hold it SUPPPPERR tight :D

Link to Sealer - I have bought from this company, they have excellent service! did my mazda3 projectors through them

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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i wanted to ask around on here to see what everyone could recommend. About a month if not a little longer ago i put hid's in my 2004 gmc envoy. I did the plug and play for my fogs which turned out perfect but i decided to retrofit projectors in my low/high headlights. I bought two brand new headlights for the truck and tore them apart, cut out the opening for the low beam and made my projector fit. I got the projector in, had everything running just fine for over a month and the other day i noticed my passenger side headlight was falling apart. The clear lens that goes on the light assembly is not staying on the light. I did like ppl on trailvoy.com said by sealing it back up with 100% pure silicone caulk and it worked and was a tight fit but here we are and that shit isnt holding a damn thing together. The caulk stuck to the clear lens on the front of the light just not the little lip that is on the light itself. I am in the process of taking the retro fit lights (both of them since my driver side one has a small corner that isnt sealing so i might as well take it all off and do it right if i can) and putting it all back together with something better than the 100% silicone sealant i used. My dad just bought this for me tonight: http://3mcollision.c...8609-black.html im not sure if this will work or not. I read on some places online that the window weld wouldnt hold that well with the high temperatures headlights give off but you would think that the window has got to be hotter than the headlight with it being in direct sunlight all day long. This is what i used originally to attempt to hold the light together: http://www.acehardwa...ELAID=109334869. I read on some areas that they used rubber butyl to hold their headlights together tight and weatherproofed and was thinking about finding it if i could. I was also wanting to make it so that if for some reason i have a problem with my projector and need to replace it, i can still take off the lens to fix it but would need to use a heat gun like i originally did to pry the light apart.

If someone could please recommend me something that will keep the lens of my headlight on tight that would be great for me. I did like meade did with the pure silicone and even prepped the surface and it still didnt stick to the backing of my headlight.

As always thanks for your help and suggestions.

this took my awhile to find for you, this is exactly what you need!! this is what my mazda3 had stock for sealing them, I take it the plastic clear part is coming apart from the rest of the headlight? this stuff you have to warm up while pushing the peices together, like with a heatgun/hairdryer, and once it cools, you will never get it apart, unless you heat it again, and it still took my 45 minutes to get my headlight apart because it was so strong, this stuff is perfect though, its exactly what you need, seals it, and will hold it SUPPPPERR tight :D

Link to Sealer - I have bought from this company, they have excellent service! did my mazda3 projectors through them

Yes you are correct that the clear lens is whats not sticking to the actual light at all. I was looking at that stuff but was just wondering if the 3m stuff my dad got me will be a little better. The one thing im attempting to do is get the little locking tabs on my headlight to hold the clear lens on for extra support. Like the 3m stuff apparently doesnt need any heat and has about 10 minutes before it starts to cure. I was thinking to do like i did with my other headlight that was mangled to all hell from me trying to tear it apart by taking a small sandbag and setting it on the top of the headlight's lens while the silicone dried up. I was also thinking to get a small c clamp that can fit around the top and bottom of the light to bring the retaining clips in while it is drying. Do you think this would be practical to do?

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Alright little update on this, i finished tearing the one headlight apart that originally was halfway from falling off the truck. Im going to get started on the other one in a day or so with tearing off all the old crap on the seal and sand down the ledge of the light itself and prep it for the 3M stuff since its what my dad bought and wth, i might as well give it a shot. cant hurt anything but the light. lol.

I was just wondering something about my projectors for the light though. I know Steve has futurevision hid's just like i do (i cannot say how much i love their product and customer service, they are a great company to order through and stand by their product) but anyways i was wondering if anyone knew the size projector Meade used in his tahoe for the low beams, no not the fogs, his low beams. I have 32mm projectors in mine and they are good but they dont really shine for distance worth a damn. I swapped my ballasts from 35w to 50w for the projector to see if that helps me too but i was wondering if anyone knew if steve had a 32mm too or a bigger one for his lights. My projectors will shine about 4 blocks but you can only see the light from it bouncing back off the reflective tape on the street signs, it stops in the road about 10 feet in front of my bumper. My old halogens would go further out than this. If anyone knows please chime in. I watched his vids and looked at all his logs and everything and dont see anywhere what size projector he bought.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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  • 4 weeks later...

ok, so i have the headlights back on my truck and so far they look like they are not coming apart anytime soon with that windo-weld i used. The only problem i have is my one projector managed to get itself off level. My driver side projector is nice and level for the cutoff however my passenger side projector is leaning down toward the right and looks like total garbage if you ask me. Since the lights are sealed up and i can not have any way to get it torn apart to re-adjust the leveling on them does anyone have anything i can try to level it? I would take the back part of the projector out and turn it slightly from the rear where the bulb goes in but im afraid of backing it off too far and getting the damn thing to start wobbling around or to make it loose in the housing. What i thought of doing was to remove the bulb and getting some long pliers and get into the back of the projector and attempt to turn the entire projector just enough to make the cutoff level again but im afraid of snapping the projector housing my light came with (not the projector from futurevision since it is so damn strong and well built) or making the nut back off even though i have the back plate on it tightly so it shouldnt back off the nut.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what i can try to get it level? I really am going to kick my self in the ass for it because the light that is not level is the one that has a half broken front clip on my truck since the previous owner hit that side into a wall or something and cracked the front clip that holds the headlights, grille, and part of my bumper on so i have to play for 15 minutes just to get the damn headlight locked in place.

Also sorry to make this old post back up to the top, i figured it would be kinda stupid to make a new post just for this.

Thanks!!!

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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