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Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.

So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)

The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.

I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.

Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.

I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.

The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.

Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.

2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.

I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.

I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.

I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.

I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.

Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.

Edited by DeathByWaffle
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Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.

So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)

The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.

I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.

Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.

I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.

The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.

Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.

2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.

I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.

I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.

I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.

I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.

Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.

lanzars got a 4k n 5k watt amp. you find em all over cheap.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9470-mxa284-lanzar-5000-watts-2-channel-mosfet-power-amplifier.aspx

check it out. i almost bought it. i got the 3k instead though. they work awesome and sound good. as for batts, im going ds3100. and id go mechman 220 alt.thats what im doing anyway. n my system in my blazer pulls so much power that my high beams are barely visible.

Lucky Durango

Sony hu

4 croosfire 6.5mids

crossfire 600.1 mono amp

American bass 1280.4 mids and highs amp

aq hdc3 12

2.4 cube net box, tuned to 34 and 14.4 inches of port per cube

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Big 3 first of all.. not that hard i have done a chevy cav not much different cars... could help you with that. and second get a different battery you will spend more for 2 yellows then you would a decent xs power or kinetics. after you spent money on that then see if you got enough for the 4000wrms amp. a h/o alt will be a plus but not completely necessary yet as long as you keep your batts topped off with power. i have a second battery in my cargo with stock alt. and would charge it every nite. so start there then move on. my opinion

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also, there are better batteries for the price than yellowtop optimas. when i first started on this forum, i thought they were top of the line. man was i rong

Lucky Durango

Sony hu

4 croosfire 6.5mids

crossfire 600.1 mono amp

American bass 1280.4 mids and highs amp

aq hdc3 12

2.4 cube net box, tuned to 34 and 14.4 inches of port per cube

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First off, subs don't produce any watts at all. Second, if your car is dimming that bad just from a Sony 1000 watt amp which really clamps more like 300 watts if even that, then you probably have another weak link somewhere in your cars charging system. 4000 watts is definitely going to have to have a big high output alternator and a big batt up front with a couple little batts in the back. Just with that your at your $1000 dollar mark. If I were you man I'd try to figure out why your voltage is so low, and then I'd just buy a better amp that does a true 1200-2000 watts and go from there.

so far...

HU- pioneer DEH-P59001B

Amp- crescendo BC2000D

Wire- 1/0 awg welding lead

Electric- Big 3 ^same wire

Subs- 2 Obsidian Audio 12 d4's

Box 4ft^3 ported at 33hz. designed by Ram-Designs

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Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.

So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)

The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.

I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.

Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.

I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.

The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.

Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.

2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.

I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.

I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.

I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.

I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.

Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.

lanzars got a 4k n 5k watt amp. you find em all over cheap.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9470-mxa284-lanzar-5000-watts-2-channel-mosfet-power-amplifier.aspx

check it out. i almost bought it. i got the 3k instead though. they work awesome and sound good. as for batts, im going ds3100. and id go mechman 220 alt.thats what im doing anyway. n my system in my blazer pulls so much power that my high beams are barely visible.

That amp your showing me is 2 ohm stable. And dang lol.

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also, there are better batteries for the price than yellowtop optimas. when i first started on this forum, i thought they were top of the line. man was i rong

Ya I have been reading some bad reviews about them, but that goes for all batteries. They cant all be perfect.

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Big 3 first of all.. not that hard i have done a chevy cav not much different cars... could help you with that. and second get a different battery you will spend more for 2 yellows then you would a decent xs power or kinetics. after you spent money on that then see if you got enough for the 4000wrms amp. a h/o alt will be a plus but not completely necessary yet as long as you keep your batts topped off with power. i have a second battery in my cargo with stock alt. and would charge it every nite. so start there then move on. my opinion

One problem is, is that I might be selling this car, so I want to keep away from the h/o's

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