Need help with my system please

[DeathByWaffle]

First off, subs don't produce any watts at all. Second, if your car is dimming that bad just from a Sony 1000 watt amp which really clamps more like 300 watts if even that, then you probably have another weak link somewhere in your cars charging system. 4000 watts is definitely going to have to have a big high output alternator and a big batt up front with a couple little batts in the back. Just with that your at your $1000 dollar mark. If I were you man I'd try to figure out why your voltage is so low, and then I'd just buy a better amp that does a true 1200-2000 watts and go from there.

Not to mention I have blown the fuses on the amp, and I put the amp in protect mode a lot, but my car really rocks when everything works. I get sweet steering wheel flex. People can feel it when they are inside there car from 2 car lengths away

[pimpnFosgates]

Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.

So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)

The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.

I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.

Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.

I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.

The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.

Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.

2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.

I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.

I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.

I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.

I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.

Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.

lanzars got a 4k n 5k watt amp. you find em all over cheap.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9470-mxa284-lanzar-5000-watts-2-channel-mosfet-power-amplifier.aspx

check it out. i almost bought it. i got the 3k instead though. they work awesome and sound good. as for batts, im going ds3100. and id go mechman 220 alt.thats what im doing anyway. n my system in my blazer pulls so much power that my high beams are barely visible.

That amp your showing me is 2 ohm stable. And dang lol.

yessir. n the 220 mechman alt n d3100 are going into my 1973 dodge dart swinger.

[KenC210]

also, there are better batteries for the price than yellowtop optimas. when i first started on this forum, i thought they were top of the line. man was i rong

Ya I have been reading some bad reviews about them, but that goes for all batteries. They cant all be perfect.

well to tell you they are ok not the best bet... thats what i got in my cargo but i also paid 50. for it (special thanks to friends at o'riely's) would def choose a different battery if you goin to pay retail on a yellow top. and i believe you alt is stock 90 amps if i remember right

[pimpnFosgates]

First off, subs don't produce any watts at all. Second, if your car is dimming that bad just from a Sony 1000 watt amp which really clamps more like 300 watts if even that, then you probably have another weak link somewhere in your cars charging system. 4000 watts is definitely going to have to have a big high output alternator and a big batt up front with a couple little batts in the back. Just with that your at your $1000 dollar mark. If I were you man I'd try to figure out why your voltage is so low, and then I'd just buy a better amp that does a true 1200-2000 watts and go from there.

Not to mention I have blown the fuses on the amp, and I put the amp in protect mode a lot, but my car really rocks when everything works. I get sweet steering wheel flex. People can feel it when they are inside there car from 2 car lengths away

turn gain down on amp lil bit n tune ur eq on deck. ive nvr put any of my amps in protect yet(:

[DeathByWaffle]

Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.

So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)

The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.

I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.

Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.

I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.

The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.

Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.

2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.

I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.

I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.

I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.

I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.

Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.

lanzars got a 4k n 5k watt amp. you find em all over cheap.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9470-mxa284-lanzar-5000-watts-2-channel-mosfet-power-amplifier.aspx

check it out. i almost bought it. i got the 3k instead though. they work awesome and sound good. as for batts, im going ds3100. and id go mechman 220 alt.thats what im doing anyway. n my system in my blazer pulls so much power that my high beams are barely visible.

That amp your showing me is 2 ohm stable. And dang lol.

yessir. n the 220 mechman alt n d3100 are going into my 1973 dodge dart swinger.

But i wanna get one that is 1 ohm stable since I don't know if my subs are 1 ohm or 2 ohm

[DeathByWaffle]

also, there are better batteries for the price than yellowtop optimas. when i first started on this forum, i thought they were top of the line. man was i rong

Ya I have been reading some bad reviews about them, but that goes for all batteries. They cant all be perfect.

well to tell you they are ok not the best bet... thats what i got in my cargo but i also paid 50. for it (special thanks to friends at o'riely's) would def choose a different battery if you goin to pay retail on a yellow top. and i believe you alt is stock 90 amps if i remember right

Beats me bro, but if that's what it is I thank you for the info.

[DeathByWaffle]

First off, subs don't produce any watts at all. Second, if your car is dimming that bad just from a Sony 1000 watt amp which really clamps more like 300 watts if even that, then you probably have another weak link somewhere in your cars charging system. 4000 watts is definitely going to have to have a big high output alternator and a big batt up front with a couple little batts in the back. Just with that your at your $1000 dollar mark. If I were you man I'd try to figure out why your voltage is so low, and then I'd just buy a better amp that does a true 1200-2000 watts and go from there.

Not to mention I have blown the fuses on the amp, and I put the amp in protect mode a lot, but my car really rocks when everything works. I get sweet steering wheel flex. People can feel it when they are inside there car from 2 car lengths away

turn gain down on amp lil bit n tune ur eq on deck. ive nvr put any of my amps in protect yet(:

should I put my amp off of LPF or keep it on. Cause I also have my head unit set on 80 hz the same as the amps LPF

[Supercharged DCs]

Take a DMM and measure the resistance of the subwoofers coils. Subtract the resistance from the leads of the DMM and you will find out what impedance the subwoofers are.

Your gain should be set according to the input voltage from the headunit. You will need to use a oscope or DD-1 to ensure you are not clipping. LPF should be set between 60-Eighty hertz, Subsonic should be set 5hz below box tuning, so roughly 30hz.

Run the largest wire that your amplifier will accept. Make sure the ground is good. Your electrical system is only as strong as it's weakest link. If possible, ground directly to the battery.

You need to order some 1/0awg wire and upgrade your big 3. It is very simple and takes no time at all.

Your not ready to run 4000wrms, so build your way up to it. Get a nice AGM battery or two, and purchase a reputable 1k-2kw amplifier. Work your way up to more power as you gain more experience and knowledge. There is no rush, you have all the time in the world

[pimpnFosgates]

Take a DMM and measure the resistance of the subwoofers coils. Subtract the resistance from the leads of the DMM and you will find out what impedance the subwoofers are.

Your gain should be set according to the input voltage from the headunit. You will need to use a oscope or DD-1 to ensure you are not clipping. LPF should be set between 60-Eighty hertz, Subsonic should be set 5hz below box tuning, so roughly 30hz.

Run the largest wire that your amplifier will accept. Make sure the ground is good. Your electrical system is only as strong as it's weakest link. If possible, ground directly to the battery.

You need to order some 1/0awg wire and upgrade your big 3. It is very simple and takes no time at all.

Your not ready to run 4000wrms, so build your way up to it. Get a nice AGM battery or two, and purchase a reputable 1k-2kw amplifier. Work your way up to more power as you gain more experience and knowledge. There is no rush, you have all the time in the world

Not if it ends in 2012 !!! dun dun DUUUNNNN. just kidding yall. besides, we got at least another 1000 years after the apocalypse (:

[DeathByWaffle]

Take a DMM and measure the resistance of the subwoofers coils. Subtract the resistance from the leads of the DMM and you will find out what impedance the subwoofers are.

Your gain should be set according to the input voltage from the headunit. You will need to use a oscope or DD-1 to ensure you are not clipping. LPF should be set between 60-Eighty hertz, Subsonic should be set 5hz below box tuning, so roughly 30hz.

Run the largest wire that your amplifier will accept. Make sure the ground is good. Your electrical system is only as strong as it's weakest link. If possible, ground directly to the battery.

You need to order some 1/0awg wire and upgrade your big 3. It is very simple and takes no time at all.

Your not ready to run 4000wrms, so build your way up to it. Get a nice AGM battery or two, and purchase a reputable 1k-2kw amplifier. Work your way up to more power as you gain more experience and knowledge. There is no rush, you have all the time in the world

I'm a noob lol so here I shoot my questions.

What is a DMM(Digital multi meter) I believe that's right. But I don't know how to use one.

I have no clue what a oscope is or a DD-1. This amp only has a gain and a LPF button lol.

Well I have 1/0 wire running for the amp but I think the amp only accepts 4 gauge. I have the ground on where my spare tire sits. So I don't know if its safe or not.

I need to learn how to do the big 3 cause I have no clue how to do it.

I have no idea what AGM means.

Reputable I am guessing is a amp that can transfer the signal to another?

Thanks for your help.