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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=130569176311&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_1773wt_939

thinkn bout buying 2 of these. are these good amps? do they ACTUALLY do 1000w @ 1ohm? i have 1 12" dual 2 ohm vc and it can take 1500w rms. im going to buy another 1 so ill have 2...... its a power acoustik mofo 122x i have it on like 600w rms right now and it barely moves at all but is loud as hell lol so i cant wait to get it flexn.

just wanted some thoughts and opinions.....and i dont wanna hear how i should get "better" equipment ..... if ur gunna say something like that-dont say anything at all. i have what i have and im on a budget so trying to get the best bang for my buck.

it looks like a good deal for $127 w bass knob (which will be better imo)

thanks!

-jarrid-

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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that amp doesnt do rated, the whole HFI line is shit. and that bass knob is a bass boost knob, not a gain control knob. the "best" bang for your buck would be an audiopipe ap1500, caraudiodeals has them for like 150 or something. and just an fyi, you arent going to get quality equipment unless you step your budget up. just throwing that out there.

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No the hifi line are known to be underrated, I personally havnt tried one but I trust the clamp tests that I've seen. The Brutus line are better for sure

so far...

HU- pioneer DEH-P59001B

Amp- crescendo BC2000D

Wire- 1/0 awg welding lead

Electric- Big 3 ^same wire

Subs- 2 Obsidian Audio 12 d4's

Box 4ft^3 ported at 33hz. designed by Ram-Designs

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under rated as in says 1000w rms but does like 850rms.... or says 1000w n does 1200w @ 14-16v cuz the first post says they are shit and doesnt do rated but your saying clamped they are under rated..... hmmm

n ill definitly look into the ap1500

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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is this what you meant? couldnt find an aq1500. http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopipe-ap15001d-p-1452.html this is what i found

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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yeah he meant the audio pipe. as for the hifi line it is over rated. the brutus will do rated though.

JEEP BUILD PROJECT ANTIBLING.2000 jeep Cherokee.HEADUNITAlpine Cda-9886SUBSTAGE1 acendent 18" audio mayhem motor with a TI basket and tantric parts1 prototype DAT hellfire 1000.1HIGHSStockELECTRICALdb link 0 gaugeKnuconceptz Kolossus 4 gauge1 xs power d3400 under hoodBig 3 upgradeold fourwheeler build

The only way to delete your SMD account is for you crawl to steve meades door step on your knees and pleade for his forgiveness and acceptance to be released...He will either grant your wishes.....or choke you with a large piece of 0 gauge and electrocute you by hooking up a solid gold DC 12k at 0.000001 ohm and 10000 volts to your eye sockets and blow your head apart

You guys act like you have never clogged a toilet and ran around the bathroom frantically hoping it don't overflow.

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under rated as in says 1000w rms but does like 850rms.... or says 1000w n does 1200w @ 14-16v cuz the first post says they are shit and doesnt do rated but your saying clamped they are under rated..... hmmm

n ill definitly look into the ap1500

i think he means over rated. the two terms sometimes get confused. if he said the brutus line is better, then he meant over rated, not under rated. and yes thats the link im talking about. its not the worst amp, but its far from the best.

Edited by Kranny
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also, you need to figure out how youre gonna get any power out of the amp(whichever amp you choose) with TWO subs connected. you have a dual 2 ohm sub now yes? adding another will bring you to a final ohm load .5 ohms, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms. so whichever amp you choose needs to put out STOUT power at 2 ohms, or you need to swap the current sub out for a Dual 4 ohm coil setup(or dual 1's). Dual 4 VC's will wire to a final load of 1 ohm and that's the likely configuration you'll want with a 1 ohm stable amp. hope my post wasn't too confusing.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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i would stay away from the hifi ...hifonics is really good but there hifi does NOT do rated power and has no resale value....honestly thats not a very good deal check out amzon or sonic ...the reason i say all this bad is cause i have a hifi and it dont hold a candle to a brz or bxi hifonics amp

1995 Honda passport 3.2 4x4 Frankenstein on a budget

ballistics sound deader (roof only so far)

kenwood mp3 usb

audio control 3 (upgrading)

hifonics mx-3

3 sets of massive px5 5.25s

3 sets of massive tweets

phonix gold 5.25 componets

x2 massive nx4 nano 200x4 mids

sony xplod 600x4 watt high's

2 Fi bl fully loaded box walled @31ish hz

13.2 cube box/wall

massive DB8000

Excessive amaperge 250 amp alt wir extrnl regulator

daul runs of xs power xpflex 0 gauge

big 3

raptor 0 gauge power/ground wire full run

suriken 45 amp hour x3 shriken bt-120 batts,interstate 1100CA semi batt

scytek galaxy 2way alarm

still upgradeing!

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also, you need to figure out how youre gonna get any power out of the amp(whichever amp you choose) with TWO subs connected. you have a dual 2 ohm sub now yes? adding another will bring you to a final ohm load .5 ohms, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms. so whichever amp you choose needs to put out STOUT power at 2 ohms, or you need to swap the current sub out for a Dual 4 ohm coil setup(or dual 1's). Dual 4 VC's will wire to a final load of 1 ohm and that's the likely configuration you'll want with a 1 ohm stable amp. hope my post wasn't too confusing.

totally forgot about this. you MUST take this into consideration when buying an amp.

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