FroznBeavrBALLs Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) hold up Edited October 27, 2011 by FroznBeavrBALLs Quote 2 DC 12" lvl 4s 1 DC 1.2k XS Power S3400 big 3 Alll KNU wire Pioneer HU cheapo Legacy coaxes (just for now) http://www.stevemead...n-sentra-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FroznBeavrBALLs Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 what do u mean by "any wire for big 3"??? like any size wire? because if ur planning on going bigger than that Bzr, down the road, ur gonna need big 3 with 1/0 wire. if u go smaller now then your gonna have to upgrade it again down the road. Quote 2 DC 12" lvl 4s 1 DC 1.2k XS Power S3400 big 3 Alll KNU wire Pioneer HU cheapo Legacy coaxes (just for now) http://www.stevemead...n-sentra-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 what do u mean by "any wire for big 3"??? like any size wire? because if ur planning on going bigger than that Bzr, down the road, ur gonna need big 3 with 1/0 wire. if u go smaller now then your gonna have to upgrade it again down the road. im not planning on having this car for more then 3 or 4 more months so this is the last system i will have in it Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FroznBeavrBALLs Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 oh...well then save all of your wire for your next car. lol Quote 2 DC 12" lvl 4s 1 DC 1.2k XS Power S3400 big 3 Alll KNU wire Pioneer HU cheapo Legacy coaxes (just for now) http://www.stevemead...n-sentra-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 oh...well then save all of your wire for your next car. lol oh dont worry ill be keeping all the factory wiring so when i get my new car i take my wire with me Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigsix Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 big three with zero, if its for 3 months or 3 years, if you are going to do it, do it right, or dont bother. And I would most likely run bigger than 4 ga to that brz, especially if you are gonna run it at 1ohm..... I have American Bass 0ga ran into my brz1700 for the power and ground... it has 2 ga inputs, so obviously they want you to run 2ga, not 4, but its your car, run more current than you should through the 4ga, and at least youll know why you keep blowing fuses. Quote 1999 Lincoln Town Car-(build underway) - (2) SA15s, 4th order, DAT 2500.1, O2 mids n highs, 250a alt, HC 2400, Big 3.... 1994 Pontiac T/A for speeding tickets.- - Currently on jack stands, wanting to be a real race car "Your local forecast, all the ladies in the metro area should expect to see 8 inches tonight" - The Todd Decaf, on 01 November 2011 - 02:38 PM, said: i provide the ammo for destruction, the trigger finger is connected to the volume knob tho URBAN GORILLA AUDIO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) Electrical current must flow in a path, to and from the battery/alternator. Therefore it will always be choked down by your smallest wire gauge regardless where it is. The official (wikipedia) copper resistance of 4ga is 0.25mOhms/ft. You said the fuse rating is 160a. So at potentential max current draw you could get a 0.8V drop across your 20feet of 4ga wire. 0.25m * 20' = 5mOhms. 160a * 5mOhms = 0.8V drop. 160a*160a*5mOhms = 128W of power loss in the wire. Given, 4ga wire is only rated for maybe 100a so it might be slightly stressed by that 160a. 0ga will only be better. In general, always use the larger wire for long cable runs. Less resistance, less voltage drop. Edited October 27, 2011 by Wicks Quote This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) Use the 4 gauge for your big 3. Your stock alt isn't putting out that much current. 1/0 would be overkill for the big 3. It would be a mistake to fuse your 4 gauge wire @ 150-180 amps. Fuse based off the wire rating, not the amp rating. The point of a fuse is only to keep the wire from burning up.... Use the 1/0 for your amplifier and ground. If you have a little 1/0 left over after your wire is all run, you can also run 1/0 off the battery to the frame. The charging lead off the STOCK alternator DOESN'T need to be 1/0 though. There are a bunch of new members on the board lately giving out some poor advice. If you don't know exactly why you do things and what is acceptable, you shouldn't be giving out advice. The fact that 4 agree on bad advice is not what this forum is about or has ever been about. Edited October 27, 2011 by Blackedout Quote Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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