joakwin Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 i building a rhd mini cooper, i upgraded the headlights from sealed to some h4's and i have replaced the points with a electric dizzy, i had a stock 45amp alt and i replaced that with a 105amp mid 90's or so small case GM Saturn car alt, and i have a group 34- a big yellow top optima battery, and some 2/00 welding wire mb quart onx1500.1 sub amp that i plan to run at 2ohms on a tc sounds tc7 in a ported box, and a mb quart 2 ch amp for the fronts and some mb quart onx 6.5 comps for the fronts and no rear fills and so far i got two bulk packs of dynamat extreme my question is, will i need to upgrade to a bigger higher output alt? i just started to install the wiring harness into the shell last night so its gonna be a bit of time before i get the car running and stereo installed, and i have to order parts ahead of time to make sure they get here for when i need them, shipping is slow for me for parts coming from the states thanks 84 austin mini building a system for it currently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max.krupski Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 personally id run the biggest alternator i could. i was always told its better to run your system off your alt, not batteries, its easier on your car. Plus that mono block will take at least 120 amps when pounding plus what ever the two channel is ratted for lets say 500rms so thats easily another 60 amps at full volume and as a rule of thumb i was told to leave an extra 50 amps for your car so 230 amp alt. and you'd be golden imo. i'm curious to hear what the others say though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joakwin Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 this is the 2ch amp i have for the 6.5 comps http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33002_MB-Quart-FX2.60.html 84 austin mini building a system for it currently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokeumtires Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Alts take the brunt of the work, try and get a 250 amp or bigger you make your electrical solid, because you NEVER know what you may run down the line. And once you take care of the SOURCE of power you never have worry about GETTING power to your subs. Capichè????!! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 personally id run the biggest alternator i could. i was always told its better to run your system off your alt, not batteries, its easier on your car. Plus that mono block will take at least 120 amps when pounding plus what ever the two channel is ratted for lets say 500rms so thats easily another 60 amps at full volume and as a rule of thumb i was told to leave an extra 50 amps for your car so 230 amp alt. and you'd be golden imo. i'm curious to hear what the others say though Alts take the brunt of the work, try and get a 250 amp or bigger you make your electrical solid, because you NEVER know what you may run down the line. And once you take care of the SOURCE of power you never have worry about GETTING power to your subs. Capichè????!! Lol I'd plus 1 you guys but.... I cannot... But proper information here...For the most part. Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 AS already stated a solid alternator is a good base to start with for any modifed system. I noticed the description of your system doesnt include the "Big 3". Have you dont that as well? Also, are you experiencing voltage drops (dim lights etc). If there is'nt an immediate need you can buy more time to save for a quality alt. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joakwin Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 the "big 3" is over done, im still in the works of building/installing the cars main wiring harness, the car used 4 fuses to power everything and im doing away with that and making the harness more like a newer vehicle, the alt is in the front and the battery is in the back, all my main battery cables are done in 2/00 welding wire, pos/neg cables this car is pretty much a ground up build, with a small system for daily and alot of fiberglass 84 austin mini building a system for it currently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthsouthproductionsNC Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 If you have the money for one do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt@mechman Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 1500 watts is going to kill a CS121 Saturn alternator. I would use a large case unit, or one of our 6-phase hairpin units if you are tight on space. Even if you only go with a 160 amp or so unit in a better housing, it will perform way better than a CS121. E-mail me if you would like a quote [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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