Beginner Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) I've already modified my dash to fit a double din and now I'm relocating my ac controls. The only place I can move them to has become a challenge. The ac control housing is a square box and I'm trying to relocate it onto a rounded surface. After it is molded in I will be cutting 3 holes for the knobs and the icons on the controls. It will sit behind the panel and will need to be thicker in certain spots to fill in the gaps between the ac unit and the bezel from the backside. Here is what I'm trying to do. I will be keeping the "bodyline" so I will not be molding that part in below the controls. This will also be painted to match the outside of the car. Thanks! Edited November 12, 2011 by Beginner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 log on to urethane supply website. Find flex filler go to town enjoy sanding. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beginner Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I think I'm going about this all wrong? I've got my 3 holes in my 1/16" plastic piece but everytime i bend it too far it breaks. What can I do to make this work? Can I use aluminum and then bond it to my plastic, do my body work and then paint it? Or will plastic and aluminum not bond to each other without it cracking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 you are not going to bond plastic and aluminum well. You can goop up enough adhesives to make it work but its not a desired method are you heating hte plastic. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beginner Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 (edited) I got my plastic to work and I used a product call Q-Bond. It's meant to work on plastics and works very well. I'm now ready for my body work. Do you see any problems before I start with the body work? Everything has been sanded smooth, do you see any early signs of cracking? Do I need to fill in every pin hole or just leave that to the body filler? Thanks! Both sides have been bonded with Q-Bond and it's very sturdy. Am I ready for body work? It looks better in person. Edited November 18, 2011 by Beginner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 the only ting i dont like is the ridge wehre the bond is. Id want that to be smoother before starting. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beginner Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 the only ting i dont like is the ridge wehre the bond is. Id want that to be smoother before starting. It is smooth. Where are you talking about exactly? The top section that I molded in? I know it looks "wavy" all around the edges, it's just how q-bond is after you sand it. Everything is smooth. I'm new to this, so please let me know. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisLun Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Run some rage gold on it, sand it.... And you should be ok 2006 Dodge Charger (2) Kinetic 3800 (1) DC Power 270XP (4) T1-12D4 (1) T2500BDCP (2) T400.4 7.5 cubic ft. (2) 6 in ports thru the rear deck (2) T165.2 (2) T169.3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beginner Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Do I need to get Rage Gold, or will these work? I used these two on the ash try that I shaved and they worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 You don't NEED rage, those should work alright. Just don't put it on too thick, which shouldn't be a problem by looking at what you're planning on filling. Rage is just a better product overall. Application, sanding, etc 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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