GreenSpade Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 guys. holy hell. dude says something you dont agree with. get over it lol find him a huge sub or move on i know what he is talking about too. its hard to explain if you have never heard it Was starting to think the whole car forum might not know anything about this Yes its a VERY hard thing to explain to people who have been on forums reading more then they have actualy been using speakers. I'm new to this forum, I actually use speakers, don't really talk about them much, I thought this was all commonly knolage haha.. MAH BAD for bring'n it to a car audio forum, its just that I was looking for a car audio sub... Guess I should've expected the flame'n haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudNlow87 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I don't think it's a 'distorted' signal by any means. Smaller cones simply react faster than larger ones given the same power/motor. Maybe this is what you're referring to..? '11 Jeep Patriot New Build Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD Front: Massive CK69 Components Front Amp: Massive NX2 Rears: Infinity Kappa's Subs: 8 Sundown SA-8 v2's Sub Amp: AB 450.1 XS D3100 Come on 150! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 except thats slightly incorrect given that a larger cone needs less excursion to create the same output as a smaller cone. ANYWAYS, tonality differences happen, its a fact. Frequency reproduction differences become an issue when attempting to hit certain SPL levels with certain drivers, less of a driver diaphragm swept area thing. SO Guy is looking for a giant sub, end of story. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenSpade Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 I don't think it's a 'distorted' signal by any means. Smaller cones simply react faster than larger ones given the same power/motor. Maybe this is what you're referring to..? Well a 12 and a 18 are both reacting as fast when I play the note in a song. They sound different. Same note. Same speed. Same hz. Same watts even. Sounds different. 12s vs 18s. Not really sure how else I can discribe different. By distortion, I'm not talking about a crapy hissing sound or a static, I'm talking the differences in the sound. I throw the distortion word around too lightly I think, everything is degrees of distortion with sound gear(Amps/subs/speakers). Amps gain volume through distortion of the orginal signal, thats why a 2000rms amp can give you peak of 4000 (when you clip any amp its able to give twice its rated power in distorted power or "peak" power), cuz it HAS to be able to go that high to be able to give you 2k of clean power before distorting to the point of sounding bad. Thats also why that 2k watt amp only lets you use 2k watts of it, verse the 4k watts it "actually" has in fully distorted power. When you look at peak values, your looking at fully distorted or the "max fully distorted" power. The rms is the actual power you use before you start clipping from distorted sound, its your "real" max, due to it being the most you can amplify the signal before the distortion levels become detectable. (sounding really bad) Speakers also work with degrees of distortions, this is why almost all amps go down to 20hz and only "some" speakers go down this low. The amount of distortion I'm discribing is not some fart noize or something sounding bad, its just the difference in how one speaker thinks the signal being send down the wire should sound like and how the next speaker is made differently and thus will give a different sounding note, each speaker is going to have a different level of distortion in different areas of the note. Put two powered on next to each other and you can hear the difference. Sometimes even of the same size speaker, of the same wattage, but from different manufacturers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenSpade Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 except thats slightly incorrect given that a larger cone needs less excursion to create the same output as a smaller cone. ANYWAYS, tonality differences happen, its a fact. Frequency reproduction differences become an issue when attempting to hit certain SPL levels with certain drivers, less of a driver diaphragm swept area thing. SO Guy is looking for a giant sub, end of story. Uhh.. I'm not trying to win any spl comps here, I think high spl at close range would be a BAD idea, I don't max my gear out, I would hurt someone that close to it. More about the quality of the toons personally, but yes giant sub would be great, so far the 24 is winning, as I do not want to buy something "only" cuz its big, its gota be both big and decent, I'll be taking the best over all one, so far thats the 24 by far unless I can find one of those clarion 32s, or even just the basket for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dugee81 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 i didnt really read the thread but from what i did gather, here watch this video 8" can go low, vice versa 18" can hit high notes if the box was tuned that way. if you build the box correctly, and buy a quality subwoofer, you can get pretty much any type of bass that you are looking for. dont go for quantity, go for quality! learn how to build a good box tuned like in the low 20's (i assume this is why you want the larger woofer). 200a alt. by Excessive Amperage hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear 1/0awg + big 3 SAZ 3000D HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohckiller808 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 i know what green spade is talking about. everyone here will bash about it. when you listen to a 18 vs a 10 on the same motor, take away tones and sweeps, youll hear a huge difference especially when you start listening to double bass drums at higher volumes. on 18s the bass drums start to blend together and end up sounding like a rumble as where the 10 would hit each note. just one noticeable difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanitarium Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 i know what green spade is talking about. everyone here will bash about it. when you listen to a 18 vs a 10 on the same motor, take away tones and sweeps, youll hear a huge difference especially when you start listening to double bass drums at higher volumes. on 18s the bass drums start to blend together and end up sounding like a rumble as where the 10 would hit each note. just one noticeable difference. Bull Fucking Shit That is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohckiller808 Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 show me a 21" sq build. geez. show me a 18" sq build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanitarium Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Clean and tight in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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